tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24606228439143176712024-03-05T20:04:48.284-08:00Tim Mosedale & Co on EverestEverest and Ama Dablam expedition leader, rock climbing instructor, B&B owner, husband and Dad of 2.
Tim Mosedalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05731203299993144363noreply@blogger.comBlogger183125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2460622843914317671.post-31109833506185909952018-02-08T12:39:00.003-08:002018-02-08T12:39:58.878-08:00Ama Dablam 360ºx180º summit panorama in full technicolour.Tim Mosedalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05731203299993144363noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2460622843914317671.post-55664778599492422252018-02-08T12:39:00.001-08:002018-02-08T12:39:57.689-08:00Tracking and updates<p>I’ll have a tracker with my throughout my crazy event so feel free to check in and see how I’m doing. It’s at http://ift.tt/2nUsQnx</p>
<p>My FaceBook page will be updated throughout (hopefully) so please look at http://ift.tt/2nM6o0y</p>
<p>Also donations can be made at http://ift.tt/2nUfnvX or you can text FFBG48 £5 to 70070 (or any other amount should you feel so inclined).</p>
<p>And feel free to spread the word …</p>
<p>Sorry but got to dash!</p>
<p>Cheers – Tim</p>
<p>The post <a rel="nofollow" href="http://timmosedale.co.uk/tracking-and-updates/">Tracking and updates</a> appeared first on <a rel="nofollow" href="http://timmosedale.co.uk">Tim Mosedale</a>.</p>
Tim Mosedalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05731203299993144363noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2460622843914317671.post-37198224902816157872016-04-19T19:28:00.001-07:002016-04-19T19:28:50.866-07:00To pee or not to pee? that is the question.<p>Clearly Tim has gone off his rocker I hear you say. But this is just one of the aspects of high altitude mountaineering that I thought I’d share with you.</p>
<p>Chris and I are off to Camp 1 tomorrow night and even though we’ve been getting to know each other for the past 4 weeks we are about to be thrust in to a new level of intimacy (perhaps thrust isn’t the best turn of phrase).</p>
<p>What generally happens on the hill is that after we’ve eaten we are tucked up in our down sleeping bags by around 8 because it is just too cold to be sitting around playing cards or standing outside staring at the stars.</p>
<p>So after a few minutes wrestling out of clothes and in to sleeping bags it’s time for a quick read and then slumber. And when sleep comes it can be really really deep. I generally have a fantasticly deep sleep and then wake up bursting for a wee (a side effect of being at altitude is that the body makes you pee more because of a pH imbalance that occurs).</p>
<p>But it’s cold out there and I’m all toasty in my bag. And, hey, I can hang on for a while until it’s time to be getting up. Or can I? I generally doze on and off for ages trying to get back to sleep but the feeling of discomfort is soooo overwhelming that returning to sleep is nigh on impossible. Best check the time to make sure I can make it until breakfast, and it’s then that I discover that it’s only around 11.30p.m. Aaarrrggghhh!</p>
<p>So clearly I’m not going to make it until getting up time, in which case it’s pee time. Now I used to always get up and go outside and admire the view of the stars whilst having a tinkle but that was on lower peaks where the temperature is generally a few degrees warmer. But since having been introduced to the ‘pee bottle’ I have been converted. I won’t go in to the gory details but basically you pee in to a bottle and do the top up. Depending on the time of night depends on whether you are advised to empty it straight away or not. If you empty it straight away then this tends to send a shower of frost crystals from the inside of the tent over your unfortunate tent partner as you open the tent zipper and discharge the contents at full arm stretch outside into the snow. But if you decide not to empty it then the risk is that it freezes, thereby rendering the bottle unusable again that night – which could be a BIG problem if you decided you desperately needed to go again. And when you sometimes have to go three, four or even five times a night this could suddenly become a BIG problem.</p>
<p>Anyway, enough of that, I’ve had a pee in a bottle and emptied it. Back to sleep? Er, no. What happens next can only be described at H.A.T.A.T. (High Altitude Tossing And Turning). You try for all your worth to sleep but it just doesn’t happen. Every time you turn over you get showered with ice crystals. Your tent partner does the pee bottle thing and showers ice over you. You get bouts of sleep apnoea and feel that you are suffocating. You breath freezes on to the inside of your sleeping bag and forms an icy crust around your head and shoulders. Your sleeping bag liner acts like a boa constrictor as it winds around you every time you move. And so it goes on. All the way through the night. Until about 5 in the morning when you eventually doze off only to be woken up at soon after 5 when the tent starts getting very light as the sun come sup. So another hour or so of tossing and turning until it’s time to get the stove on and start preparations for breakfast. And then the frost starts melting and dripping in your ear.<br />
And that just about sums up the average night on the hill.</p>
<p>Now that we have been at Base Camp for a few nights we are generally getting some really deep long sleeps. Until tomorrow night, that is, when we are off to Camp 1 (6,000m) where we will start the whole ‘peeing at night’ process all over again.</p>
<p>It’s all part and parcel of ultra high altitude mountaineering. No one said it was going to be easy!</p>
<p>The post <a rel="nofollow" href="http://ift.tt/1QlH7hq">To pee or not to pee? – that is the question.</a> appeared first on <a rel="nofollow" href="http://ift.tt/1RHwnRC">Everest Expedition</a>.</p>
Tim Mosedalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05731203299993144363noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2460622843914317671.post-59277968884302054342016-03-25T01:19:00.000-07:002016-03-25T01:19:48.607-07:006 kids are in school ...Whilst it may well be very exciting to be going back to Everest I am very mindful of the events that unfolded 11 months ago and the devastating consequences that were dealt out that day for 000s of families in Nepal. Many of them are still out of their homes and living in tented or makeshift accommodation and the next monsoon is soon to be upon them.<br />
<br />
Initially the word on the street was that no building work was to take place during the monsoon which in actual fact has sound reasoning behind it. However what could have perhaps been done during the monsoon was the delivery of building materials or the completing of paperwork. But, no, that didn't seem to happen either.<br />
<br />
For many families who live in trekking areas there was no option but to start the work themselves otherwise when the season started they wouldn't be able to accommodate and / or feed the trekkers and get money coming in through the door. Unfortunately it would seem that once they had decided to undertake work themselves that they didn't then qualify for any government aid. Which is perverse. The fact that they felt that they had to build, using money borrowed from the bank, because the government hadn't put a system in place whereby families could be assessed as to what they were going to get is just a shocking travesty. Of course in many Western countries this would be labelled as an 'entitlement' whereas in Nepal it is more of a lottery as to whether a family will qualify or not.<br />
<br />
But I digress.<br />
<br />
I was in Nepal last November and in to December and it was very refreshing to see that so much had been done to mend the trails and to try and get back to normality (the aforementioned issues not withstanding). The general consensus was to move forward rather than dwell on the past and to try and make sure that future buildings were better prepared to withstand any future earthquakes. Obviously in a country where there is no building control or regulations this is only going to be proven if (when) there is another earthquake some time in the future. I hope for everyone's sake that things are now being built to a higher standard.<br />
<br />
But ... for families who had lost loved ones there was no moving forward. There was no brightness on the horizon. There was only the past to be reckoned with and the losses were still very raw. That is the sort of wound that will take an eternity to heal and, indeed, for some will never mend.<br />
<br />
Despite all that I was really pleased to be able to take £4,000 to Nepal from donations that had been made early on during my money raising venture last year (before the JustGiving page went live). This was given out to various families as a 'this is for food and clothing' gesture. The mothers were staring the future in the face and although they knew that help was on the way to pay for the schooling for their children they still needed money to clothe and feed the kids. So it was really great that, thanks to the generosity of so many people last year, we were able to ease that burden and take away another unknown.<br />
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The dialogue with the families has been quite difficult because they live in quite different areas and, in Kumar's family's case, speak a completely different dialect to the Nepali and Sherpa contacts that I have. But we are getting there and Hazel Grace (from Supporting Nepal's Children) has recently been to the village to meet and greet and chat with the family. The decision from this family is that, for the time being, the kids will stay at the local village school and be at home as a family.<br />
<br />
I never wanted to impose any criteria on the families and say that they had to send the children to a particular school - that is not for me to decide. There are a whole host of cultural implications and nuances that I wouldn't be able to fathom no matter how good the interpreter was. Anyway the decision has been made and Debita (13yr old daughter), Hasta (9 yr old son), Jineta (7 yr old daughter) and Saman (3 yr old son) will all be going to Chheskam school which is about a 5 to 10 minute walk from where they live and I am delighted that they have made this decision.<br />
<br />
Meanwhile the 2 children of Tenzing (Tashi and Phurpu) are enrolled to go to a boarding school in Kathmandu and are looking forward to starting there imminently. My Sirdar and good friend Kame has been instrumental in helping out with the arrangements in Kathmandu and has even sorted the downpayment of Rs48,380 out of his own pocket.<br />
<br />
I am now sat in Doha International Airport with another £4,000 about my person which is for the school fees to get the kids started and on their way and there will also be a few more payments to a couple of other families who we are supporting.<br />
<br />
After this round of cash payments things are being a bit more formalised and the JustGiving donations will be sent directly to SNC who give their time in the UK for free. They have appointed one member of staff in Nepal who is then in charge of making sure that there is no duplicity and that fees are paid as appropriate. He's a chap called Nyamgl who I worked with a few times when he was a Climbing Sherpa and I'm really glad that they have chosen him to be their man on the ground because he will be able to direct the ring fenced 'Tim Mosedale' fund to where it needs to go.<br />
<br />
In total just shy of £60,000 has been donated and I just want you all to know that it makes such a HUGE difference. I know that a few people have heartily congratulated me on doing the crazy event and for 'raising all that money' but I purely saw myself as a conduit between donors and families in need. Yes I raised the bar to attract your attention in the first place (and it seemed to work) but it is you guys out there who donated who deserve the pat on the back.<br />
<br />
And just a reminder that if you haven't seen it there is a short film that Matt Sharman made about the event which kind of tells the tale from beginning to end in a very succinct 30 minute sitting (it's at <a href="https://vimeo.com/145796571">https://vimeo.com/145796571</a>). Please have a look see and do continue to spread the word.<br />
<br />
Many thanks - Tim<br />
<br />Tim Mosedalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05731203299993144363noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2460622843914317671.post-67002955034974727382016-03-23T09:34:00.000-07:002016-03-23T09:34:54.101-07:00I can't quite see it yet but Everest is looming on the horizon ...It's been a busy few weeks with the build up to the forthcoming Everest season. I'm departing tomorrow and then we are flying to Lukla on Tuesday for our 3 week trek in to Base Camp from where we will then start our rotations on the hill getting up to around 7,200m.<br />
<br />
I'll be mainly updating FaceBook whilst I am in The Khumbu so please have a look across there occasionally to see what we are up to and where we are (my poage is at https://www.facebook.com/Everest-Expedition-343655569085328/?ref=hl if you're interested).<br />
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I'll be snapping away and getting as much footage as possible especially now that I have a 12mm lens for some of the panorama shots. One great thing about this set up is that I can get a panorama done in under 10 minutes so there should be plenty of opportunities for me to bring some awesome footage back. It means that there are fewer photos for Thomas to stitch ... but the downside is that you don't get quite the same clarity. So when it comes to the ultra mega views I'll be using the <a href="http://www.zeiss.co.uk/camera-lenses/en_gb/camera_lenses/loxia/loxia235.html">Carl Zeiss 35mm Loxia</a> lens which is utterly incredible.<br />
<br />
As a for instance here are a couple of shots taken locally whilst I have been doing some final practicing ...<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.mountainpanoramas.com/___p/___p.html?panoid=2016_MC&map=off&mzoom=10&mlat=54.60282400&mlon=-3.09840600" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="167" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI3qb9Fxk-LMAstHQ6QqvhHQx36lfZEl0-EItsXHmorZZfU3hZuUc0ol4HZkdrydLvHqO-H0scy-nGTILhkCO2_pmHDRgz6rgBoTRU7x_8aov9xgNyNqH8mcVInuuUSXUCzQqyUkVr-Yo/s320/Castlerigg+pano.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Castlerigg Stone Circle - a prehistoric monument just outside Keswick</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.mountainpanoramas.com/___p/___p.html?panoid=2016_MF&labels=1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="167" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNYX8QiSCds2zPw26P4AkZiXy92OECsWwarM7HelWX6CZY8zqUV32bwTHQZqBcyD_ieAJIu7vDaveJOAcoAnivZRFDJRhyphenhyphenGvl_UlTYonmi-8oVUj2ya0WJicoxVC6k49ZFV5YuIDAWrkk/s320/Walla+Crag.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walla Crag - a classic viewpoint overlooking Derwentwater and Keswick with great views across to the Central and Northen Fells.</td></tr>
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<span id="goog_1292550949"></span><span id="goog_1292550950"></span>Now I'm sure that you will agree that these are great shots but when you compare them with one that I took in the Allgau Alps in January you'll see that there's far better resolution. With the 12mm lens you can see individual blades of grass ... with the Zeiss 35mm lens you can see grains of snow!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.mountainpanoramas.com/___p/___p.html?panoid=2016_MD" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="167" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz9-Fkkl8W0RtGWGHsO8gbLlEQHNETS0-Ol0y5j8OMKx1NI_dPDilc16AEuYKeYH13tCe8pfQ_isOQY0cs17i_owy7rUp6VMeKakgNpo7NFS7eTDqeNuwvnYJZjsOF8-Sch-JiuXun8GY/s320/Algau.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hahnenkamm</td></tr>
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<div>
That's it for now but I'll try and keep posted as and when I have signal, a good photo to share and a yarn to spin. I hope that you enjoy the show!<br /><br /></div>
Tim Mosedalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05731203299993144363noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2460622843914317671.post-2929959757675637132016-03-02T07:13:00.001-08:002016-03-02T07:13:12.792-08:007 attributes needed to attempt, let alone summit, Everest.Elsewhere I have covered the reasons why people fail on Everest but this article is about what you need to consider to even contemplate attempting it.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKEANTVfS64RIaO9ID3hgJLVCTQDv-vmZqH_8prLB3T_Sb2Fcb13TNIH2tIAnperK4snb45xkKtP4uNB8Mc6VNv4K5rQ6YjZYYJ7TlEwKEoQZVMF8Lx5Ke1C0iLBE_M6mCcVcfotEzKCs/s1600/Everest+northside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKEANTVfS64RIaO9ID3hgJLVCTQDv-vmZqH_8prLB3T_Sb2Fcb13TNIH2tIAnperK4snb45xkKtP4uNB8Mc6VNv4K5rQ6YjZYYJ7TlEwKEoQZVMF8Lx5Ke1C0iLBE_M6mCcVcfotEzKCs/s1600/Everest+northside.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Everest from The North.</td></tr>
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There are seven keys elements that people require no matter which side of the mountain they are on, no matter which expedition they are with. These attributes have nothing to do with how much the expedition has cost, whether you are rich or poor, male or female. Altitude is the invisible enemy and it doesn't differentiate.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbdwWjVvz8p1rnoPEe64zRi-dQw_rnpHWsfpqzfl2YqZOLCD8sf8Cb6Z7YOS2cE_p0GfequHX4qF9YNmGjdb34e569MN13NnwyCfPu-XGelS2kv26WaJm_du8JoAcGLJzAnwmKcW8rB1Q/s1600/Everest+south.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="262" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbdwWjVvz8p1rnoPEe64zRi-dQw_rnpHWsfpqzfl2YqZOLCD8sf8Cb6Z7YOS2cE_p0GfequHX4qF9YNmGjdb34e569MN13NnwyCfPu-XGelS2kv26WaJm_du8JoAcGLJzAnwmKcW8rB1Q/s1600/Everest+south.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Everest from The South.</td></tr>
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So ... other than oxygen, Climbing Sherpas, a Base Camp cook crew, faultless logistics, the ability to get 8 weeks off work, the tricky issue of having sufficient budget to be able to afford it, the support of friends and family, the right amount of fitness etc etc what exactly do you need to be able to climb Everest?<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">1. 'The Desire' </span><br />
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There is little point, if any, in attempting Everest unless you really, really want to do it. This should not be a whim of the moment decision. It's not back of a fag packet type stuff*. It's also not something that is on everybody's bucket list and you don't necessarily have to justify to anyone, except yourself, why you want to do it. You may not be able to vocalise how you feel about it. It may well just be something that, for whatever reason, 'flicks your switch'.<br />
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But if you don't have that yearning to attempt Everest then there is little point in setting out on it in the first place.<br />
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However ... are you being realistic?<br />
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* Warning - smoking kills and is extremely bad for your health. Please do not take this an endorsement to start, or continue, smoking. Alternatively you could jot your idea down on the back of a beer mat**.<br />
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** Please note that drinking, even in moderation, can also be bad for your health. Perhaps best to just use a note book after all.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">2. 'Realistic ambition' </span><br />
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It's all very well having the desire but is it realistic for you to be undertaking this massive challenge? Do you have what it takes? Should you perhaps be making it a 5 year plan to enable you to get the necessary pre requisite experience and enough time to save the money? Should you maybe have a think about it rather than making a knee jerk reaction having been inspired by a book that you have just read, a film you've just watched or a slide show you have just attended?<br />
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Having the desire is all very well but there are many things that we desire in life that we know won't happen ... unless we do something about it. And even then it may well be that the desire is completely unrealistic and even if you do try and do something about it it may well not transpire.<br />
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Don't believe the public keynote speaker who uttered the 'if you put your mind to it you can do anything' line - that is utter rubbish. Have you ever noticed that this is a classic line that is banded around by people who have just done something? Yes you need to put your mind to it but don't assume that you will achieve your ambition just because you want to have a go. You can't just do anything that pops in to your head ... or we would all be able to fly, see through walls, run a sub 3 marathon or teleport.<br />
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So perhaps you need to park the idea?<br />
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Or conversely you need to focus your energy in to getting prepared ... as long as it is something that is actually realistic and potentially achievable.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">3. 'Experience and a high quality mountaineering resumé' </span><br />
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Preferably years and years of it. If you are naturally tuned in to the outdoor recreation environment due to the frequency, quantity and quality of your experiences then life on Everest will be a lot easier for you to tolerate. You shouldn't have to think about whether your hood should be up or down, whether you are too hot or too cold, when to drink, where your gloves are or how the toggles work on your jacket. You should be able to anticipate environmental changes in advance rather than having to deal with them at the time. Preempting the fact that the sun is coming up, and in a quarter of an hour it's going to be quite hot, has got to be better when you are stood in a safe place ... rather than finding that you are boiling hot and needing to shed layers in a dangerous place fifteen minutes later. See the list of skills required elsewhere.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJOOYMp7mVnjnWT0W3dcDYOvUb3fxUwmqo-1t2Myt1A0FoA65vsvtVsgf8Cx8W5xkkGAPTXfnoA0-BNb-qLuQfhNHmx3fZ-NnJUAi8e3YJ4kQgLY3i4GZDRuaWhFGxfnOGBt7YKGiLDl4/s1600/IMG_2558.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJOOYMp7mVnjnWT0W3dcDYOvUb3fxUwmqo-1t2Myt1A0FoA65vsvtVsgf8Cx8W5xkkGAPTXfnoA0-BNb-qLuQfhNHmx3fZ-NnJUAi8e3YJ4kQgLY3i4GZDRuaWhFGxfnOGBt7YKGiLDl4/s1600/IMG_2558.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">With years and years of experience and lots of expeditions under her belt Jen was very much in her element. Here she is approaching The South Summit. Shortly after this photo she stopped to change her oxygen bottle over and apply sunglasses and sun cream. She had gone a few minutes longer than she would normally after the sun comes up to allow her to get past a queue - but that was a sound decision on the day.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">4. 'Technical expertise' </span><br />
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It's all very well having a great resumé but be honest with yourself - are you an independent mountaineer in your own right or have you been guided on every trip and climb you have ever been on? In essence, if you have an extensive mountaineering cv but have solely been guided, this is not too much of a problem as long as you then sign up for a trip that has the correct level of guidance to cater for the shortfall.<br />
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Irrespective of that you still have to ask yourself whether you will ever end up in a situation where you are no longer guided (for whatever reason), high on the mountain and whether the implication of that terrifies you (it should do). Don't bury your head in the sand and say that 'it won't happen to me' because when it does and you are high on the mountain and alone you will feel very helpless and very lonely. It's obviously not ideal but you should be able to cope in this situation.<br />
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Better to have a whole host of skills and a thorough understanding of the natural and ever changing environment, and how to adapt to it, than to be a potential liability to yourself and therefore a potential liability to everyone around you - including people on other expeditions. Knowing instinctively how to change your walking gait from one type of snow to another means that you won't compromise yourself when the conditions underfoot change. Having a sixth sense about the weather, conditions, snow etc will mean that you are far less likely to jeopardise yourself and being tuned in will also make it a far more enjoyable experience as well. Knowing that your helmet should be on your head not your rucksack, knowing your routines and having faultless personal admin will all be very relevant when you are high on the hill.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifntj7Rg1U8eVPkPwWwuweX_shyphenhyphenywklq6RraKR6CwB5dP5U3gdFNqNDqRwP8VkjL1y-v5g1tBIzhC53ofONpAddmeH0fleunmKHgLXOLqTZSFlsktgh0SlBPHtVLw7OrFrhxxhV2HdqJk/s1600/IMG_2445.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifntj7Rg1U8eVPkPwWwuweX_shyphenhyphenywklq6RraKR6CwB5dP5U3gdFNqNDqRwP8VkjL1y-v5g1tBIzhC53ofONpAddmeH0fleunmKHgLXOLqTZSFlsktgh0SlBPHtVLw7OrFrhxxhV2HdqJk/s1600/IMG_2445.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">I've said it before and I'll say it again ... this guy should not have been on Everest. Crampons on the wrong feet, a helmet on his rucksack instead of his head and a few useless quick draws on his harness. He didn't even operate his jumar at each rebelay and his Climbing Sherpa had to do it for him. He was a liability to himself ... and to everyone around him.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">5. The ability to Focus ... </span><br />
<br />
on what needs doing and when to do it. This applies to your years of training, your gear purchases, knowing your equipment intimately, your choice of operator and your own personal commitment. You need to focus on each and every aspect, and leave no stone unturned, whether it be research and preparation for the mountain, your fitness and gaining relevant experience prior to the expedition, or focusing on what is relevant at the right moment during the trip.<br />
<br />
It's really important to prioritise and realise that the consequences of your actions, or inactions, may have far reaching consequences. What would be considered to be small issues on lesser peaks become compounded issues on Everest. On lower peaks the fact that you haven't applied or reapplied suncream may have little if any consequence. On Everest, due to the higher elevation and the rarified atmosphere you will frazzle and become sunburnt which is extremely debilitating. In the UK you can perhaps get away without drinking for the whole day (with the intention of topping up when you get home). On Everest you won't be able to get enough fluids to be sufficiently rehydrated if you go in to deficit. A little bit of dehydration on a daily basis will become a massive problem at the end of a 7 or 8 week period and you will be not only debilitated but also much more prone to the effects of high altitude, more susceptible to frostbite and hypothermia as well as having reduced efficiency and depleted brain function.<br />
<br />
Look at your expedition as a long term project. It requires lots of preparation and it needs to be conducted in a manner where you are constantly reevaluating the situation. Do your due diligence not only of the company that you are going to sign up with but of yourself as well.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsOyXQ9cKIavPL_6D6YDPmmuYX7qLmgEqjC50GF8Q5V6KGArcxJExu6yt8L0yS5n1gcKG2O0NPgBKQ2sC5TU9kj2I-eT9ltjlauwzjoY8R5347Y7ocXXzO4lDNVJItx_fZ4_ZlbYr_VHg/s1600/IMG_2470.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsOyXQ9cKIavPL_6D6YDPmmuYX7qLmgEqjC50GF8Q5V6KGArcxJExu6yt8L0yS5n1gcKG2O0NPgBKQ2sC5TU9kj2I-eT9ltjlauwzjoY8R5347Y7ocXXzO4lDNVJItx_fZ4_ZlbYr_VHg/s1600/IMG_2470.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Giles at the top of The Geneva Spur en route to the summit. A few days earlier he had contemplated going home. Thankfully he was able to refocus his energies and turned his feelings of despondency in to drive and determination.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: large;">6. Mental tenacity </span><br />
<br />
You need this by the pound. There will be moments of self doubt. There will be the days when you just don't perform how you hoped. There will be the off days when you should be firing on all cylinders. There will be the days when you are missing your friends and family and questioning this crazy endeavour. And combined with all that ... you will have a headache at some stage, possibly a bout of diarrhoea, your lips may well have cracked because you weren't looking after yourself, you can't sleep properly at night because of sleep apnoea, it's cold and you pee all the time and you will go off your food. Perversely, just when you are burning more energy than you have ever burnt before, you will lose your appetite and won't be able to face a fork full.<br />
<br />
How on earth can you attempt to continue unless you have mental tenacity by the bucket load? However, you must temper your resilience with a deep respect for the environment around you and also listen to the inner you. If it doesn't feel right then that 6th sense of yours may well be worth listening to. If you continue because your are tough and resilient, whilst ignoring the very obvious changes that are happening around you, then your mental tenacity may well get you in to trouble.<br />
<br />
Mental tenacity has to be balanced with a respect for the conditions around you and a certain feeling of vulnerability.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">7. Self belief </span><br />
<br />
This is a slightly different psychological requirement. Being tough and mentally resilient is one thing but you will need to be able to keep on going, despite how awful you feel, in spite of how lonely you might be, no matter how 'out there' and vulnerable you may feel. You have to put all that to one side and put one foot in front of the other ... incredibly slowly ... believing all the way that you have what it takes. Again, as with mental tenacity, your self belief has to be tempered to the surroundings, and any changes that may be occurring, or it may well get you in to a pickle.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaxiUdAYfC-99ZMu0GYn4qKQut-lzUbLsF3TbmYkrwJon6oWE_tej38uDO_TzXjrRusBhRInmlckqIB8oco_tPEc-91_ibzgncpQ1RQWH6aIgEVg4MrUEZuTqT9-FU8SGJdu1l8AVq0Is/s1600/IMG_2594.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaxiUdAYfC-99ZMu0GYn4qKQut-lzUbLsF3TbmYkrwJon6oWE_tej38uDO_TzXjrRusBhRInmlckqIB8oco_tPEc-91_ibzgncpQ1RQWH6aIgEVg4MrUEZuTqT9-FU8SGJdu1l8AVq0Is/s1600/IMG_2594.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Put it all together and you may, just may, get to the summit.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
So there you have it - a variety of key traits that you need to have a chance of being successful on Everest. But remember - just because you have the ambition, the drive, the focus and all the other necessary prerequisites doesn't actually mean that you will achieve your target.<br />
<br />
No matter which expedition you sign up for, no matter how much preparation you have done, no matter how good your Climbing Sherpa is you have to remember that only you can put one foot in front of the other - it can't be done for you.<br />
<br />
Time to get out on the hill.<br />
<br />
(For further related reading have a look at the suggested <a href="http://everestexpedition.co.uk/everest/skills-required/" target="_blank">Skills Required</a> and <a href="http://everestexpedition.co.uk/everest/why-people-fail-on-everest/" target="_blank">Why People Don't Summit</a>).Tim Mosedalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05731203299993144363noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2460622843914317671.post-17773428253533083122016-02-24T06:13:00.002-08:002016-02-24T06:13:42.652-08:00An Everest evening with Tim Mosedale in Darlington - raising money for children in Nepal.If you happen to be in the Darlington Area on Friday 4th March at around 7p.m. then did you know that there's an Everest Lecture taking place at the The Liddiard Theatre, Polam Hall School organised by Darlington Rotary?<br />
<br />
Entry is only £15 and includes a glass of wine or beer and a curry supper.<br />
<br />
Proceeds are going to 'Supporting Nepal's Children' (registered charity No 1160929) for the education of children who lost their fathers who perished in in the avalanche at Everest Base Camp caused by the earthquake in April 2015.<br />
<br />
Tickets can be ordered by calling 01325 254321. Entry on the night subject to availability.<br />
<br />
We look forward to seeing you there.<br />
<br />
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Tim Mosedalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05731203299993144363noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2460622843914317671.post-74756039204834614122016-01-12T11:10:00.001-08:002016-01-12T11:13:37.564-08:00Ama Dablam interactive 360° panorama from Camp 3 - you won't be disappointedSo here it is ... the latest mountain panorama this time featuring Ama Dablam from around 6,300m at the site of Camp 3.<br />
<br />
Have a look at the interactive high resolution <a href="http://www.mountainpanoramas.com/___p/___p.html?panoid=2015_M1&labels=1" target="_blank">Ama Dablam 360° vista</a>.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://mpano.com/2015M1" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="167" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyG7XnszmRYF6kkI5iWXo1OD7eQa4r02FluhqSj_Iaz_8fg15FEV52hY8S-GcZxQO-avHmxecA0ZQWeo7F01VAiv_AHgxyqQW4o0jUU9J-vWhbKvX3nKC8F-B1j5T0ORw-_n8cIoN7iZ8/s320/ama_dablam_camp_3_pano.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://mpano.com/2015M1" target="_blank">You need to go to www.mpano.com/2015M1</a></td></tr>
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<br />
A big thank you to Thomas Worbs from the <a href="http://www.mountainpanoramas.com/" target="_blank">Mountain Panoramas</a> website for the stitching, and to Gerald Blondy from <a href="http://bushman-panoramic.com/" target="_blank">Bushman Panoramics</a> for the Gobi panoramic head and tripod.<br />
<br />
For more of my work there are some <a href="http://www.everestexpedition.co.uk/everest_south_col/mountain_panoramas.htm" target="_blank">360° panoramas</a> on my website.<br />
<br />
And don't forget that you can follow the next Everest Expedition on FaceBook (<a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Everest-Expedition/343655569085328?ref=hl" target="_blank">EverestExpedition</a>) and Twitter (<a href="https://twitter.com/timmosedale" target="_blank">@timmosedale</a>) where we will be posting snippets of information and photos along the way.Tim Mosedalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05731203299993144363noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2460622843914317671.post-83899515417348162562015-12-14T04:18:00.001-08:002015-12-14T04:18:41.589-08:00'Supported' - a film by Matt Sharman.Here's a brilliant film by Matt Sharman about the mega triathlon that I did back in July.<br />
<br />
A huge thanks to Matt and the guys at Coldhouse for giving their time and expertise to produce this amazing movie.<br />
<br />
Please take some time out to enjoy ... and then spread the word.<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/145796571" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="400"></iframe>Tim Mosedalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05731203299993144363noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2460622843914317671.post-24089562488905285132015-12-09T09:13:00.000-08:002015-12-09T09:13:28.196-08:00Time lapse compilation from Ama DablamI've just put together a compilation of time lapses that I captured on the latest Ama Dablam expedition.<br />
<br />
I hope that you enjoy the spectacular scenery of moonlit mountains, starry starry nights, a full moon rising behind Ama and clouds scudding by ...<br />
<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/AmNwTp5TPvk" width="400"></iframe></div>
Tim Mosedalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05731203299993144363noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2460622843914317671.post-49873832535245622722015-11-06T00:24:00.001-08:002015-11-06T01:13:05.173-08:00The 'Tim Mosedale Tri'Back in July I undertook a bit of a challenge to raise some funds for some families in Nepal. When the earthquake struck and caused an avalanche that wiped out most of Everest Base Camp we lost 3 members of our staff. Guys I had worked with for 12 years. They had left behind 9 children and I wanted to do something to help their families.<br />
<br />
For some reason, that seemed quite logical at the time, I decided it would be a good idea to cycle the Fred Whitton (having only ever ridden a bike in my teens to go to the pub) and then swim 2 lengths of Derwentwater (having only swum a mile before) and then complete the Bob Graham Round (having previously only ever linked 2 legs together).<br />
<br />
I started off with some training where I swam and / or cycled and / or ran every day for 50 days. Realistically this was nowhere near enough training for such a massive venture but I realised that if I didn't get it done by the end of July then I wouldn't be getting it done at all. So 50 days it was. Which actually proved to be a whole lot of fun. It was a great motivator to get out training no matter what the weather and no matter how busy I was with other things that I might have otherwise managed to fill my time with.<br />
<br />
Meanwhile there was money coming in and a lot of people offering their support ... which really put the pressure on to make sure that I could complete the crazy venture.<br />
<br />
Next thing you know I was meeting a bunch of people in the market square in Keswick and getting ready to set off in to the unknown.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz5OQcfrpq26ErpfV0gD_lGcE5GQ59mVzUFox-u4UjkRqWaUqfO5UdWLAGlaoWLXO5Gsq1jQhx3ZvNnqin67FwhaqTl1XiiSC6dmjzPTx-q63SgkGQuwB0mQY-XPN0k0OsEZQ7usp6Yzg/s1600/11831700_10153180940973740_2424195326707870395_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz5OQcfrpq26ErpfV0gD_lGcE5GQ59mVzUFox-u4UjkRqWaUqfO5UdWLAGlaoWLXO5Gsq1jQhx3ZvNnqin67FwhaqTl1XiiSC6dmjzPTx-q63SgkGQuwB0mQY-XPN0k0OsEZQ7usp6Yzg/s320/11831700_10153180940973740_2424195326707870395_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of the team ready for the off ...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP55FAS8aLC14INv_HZaw5mFZojFvJXin-VQsJho02Ty91W4c4ORMF4tLdPNd1dMVCDHl6xdoMZvu0RbxUCFSECxxZ8as7Z3v2SWV8poDKZ4P5Ltyn2Hjr3nkHiNLzH-Jl54dhHkOXrpw/s1600/11228029_10153180940968740_6172809060746257619_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP55FAS8aLC14INv_HZaw5mFZojFvJXin-VQsJho02Ty91W4c4ORMF4tLdPNd1dMVCDHl6xdoMZvu0RbxUCFSECxxZ8as7Z3v2SWV8poDKZ4P5Ltyn2Hjr3nkHiNLzH-Jl54dhHkOXrpw/s320/11228029_10153180940968740_6172809060746257619_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">and I still had the house keys in my pocket.</td></tr>
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I was honoured to to meet up with 6 riders who were going to cycle with me for the first 3 passes as well as having 2 support vehicles and some photographers and well wishers. And then we were off. The conditions were perfect and we made good headway down Borrowdale and tackled the first of the passes - Honister. To be honest it's a bit of a bitch low down (around 1 in 4) before easing off to about 1 in 5 until another section of 1 in 4 brings you to the cattlegrid and a sectrion of a kilometre or so of easy cycling until the final haul to the col. Where we were met by Charmian and Steve who were ready and waiting with food and drink. Back in the saddle, down to Buttermere (a brilliant descent but you need to be on the brakes for quite a while otherwise there's a very good chance of being wiped out on the chicane at the bottom when you cross the bridge), along the side of the lake with amazing views over the Red Pike, High Crag and Haystacks and then on to the second pass ... Newlands. It's slightly easier than Honister but it's still a L O N G way and there's a sting in the tail right at the top ... where we were met by Charmian and Steve again for another fuel stop.<br />
<br />
Down off Newlands is a seriously fast, fun, descent and then there was some great riding all the way along to the village of Braithwaite before tackling the next pass up to Whinlatter which, compared to the others, is a piece of cake.<br />
<br />
More fuel and then 3 riders departed to return to Keswick. Down to Lorton where another 2 went their separate way and that left myself and Stuart Holmes to continue to Fang's Brow (another fuel stop) where we were joined by Les Barker. Bearing in mind that it was soon getting dark Les was a huge asset to have along because his knowledge of the route, the forthcoming dangers and the best line to take was invaluable.<br />
<br />
After various other fuel stops Charmian and Steve were relieved of their duties for a couple of passes on account of the fact that their motorhome probably wouldn't make it over Hardknott and Wrynose and in stepped Frances Clark who fueled us over the next 2 passes.<br />
<br />
I ought to mention that Carl, Chris and Hannah (who were doing quite a bit of photography as well as taking some excellent drone footage) were also trailing us ... every inch of the way. I'd chosen to take on The Fred first so that a) I wouldn't be going from cycling legs to fell running legs but also b) to do it at night so that the roads would be quieter. But even bearing that in mind it was still very reassuring to have a vehicle along behind us every peddle rotation of the way.<br />
<br />
Next thing you know were are at the top of Hardknott (1 in 3!!) and then on to Wrynose either side of midnight. Down to Elterwater and through Clappersgate and then I did the route to Grasmere ... and back again. It's only a few miles but I knew that if I didn't do this bit then someone somewhere would say that I hadn't actually done The Fred (which for the last few years has started and finished in Grasmere).<br />
<br />
Meanwhile, unbeknownst to me, Martin Bell was sat in his car a couple of hundred meters up the road in Grasmere watching us on the tracker and getting ready to join us. But the tracker went round the roundabout and headed back to Ambleside! So he jumped on his bike and started out to catch us up ... but we pulled in to the Ambleside car park for soup and sandwiches and Martin sped past desperately trying to find us. When he got to the top of Kirkstone, and we weren't there, he realised what had possibly happened and waited for us to arrive ... and then he joined us for the rest of the route.<br />
<br />
So now we were four (and 2 support vehicles) and whizzed down off Kirkstone (another awesome, fun descent), alongside Brotherswater and on to Ullswater before heading up to Troutbeck via Dockray. It doesn't count as a pass but it still has a substantial amount of climbing and by now I had been on the go for around 9 hours. So it was utterly delightful to be met at the next fuel stop by my wife Ali and our good friends Fiona and Suzanna (as well as Charmian, Steve, Carl, Chris and Hannah).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS_wOtsLiZ7jzjUE1cEaevLISYqhjhopcnRMOgfteyHwax_blQh4Zhfq6_BovpOwgOhlRomZfQ1bNeINZYby0TwjxlyAJqjS42Y4ZGZnMYcLTYpYDl7bT0ojd40LeBAA-qApdNVpEL6fE/s1600/11781777_847825461966561_1344699073915956980_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS_wOtsLiZ7jzjUE1cEaevLISYqhjhopcnRMOgfteyHwax_blQh4Zhfq6_BovpOwgOhlRomZfQ1bNeINZYby0TwjxlyAJqjS42Y4ZGZnMYcLTYpYDl7bT0ojd40LeBAA-qApdNVpEL6fE/s320/11781777_847825461966561_1344699073915956980_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A welcome stop after 9 hours in the saddle.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Les organised the group and made sure that we whizzed down the A66 getting me to Keswick in good order by creating a bit of drafting for me. And so I said goodbye to Stuart Holmes (who had accompanied me on the entire route), Les and Martin and dropped down to the lake shore to meet up with Paul Weller (not THE Paul Weller) who was on hand to paddle alongside and keep me in a straight line along the length of Derwentwater and back.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQT6OGWj_WoHPHooIe6w9cnTSZuvUuagHXzeR6ietdkM4_HdrBdVqJqDlaxCupw-UjoJU-aIln32Jefe01i15Alv67iop-juugPrjqtNdCIiRI5xGYxaAnfe_l7KJBEllKmsj2VGSdPEk/s1600/11248871_847825495299891_6379527141998750617_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQT6OGWj_WoHPHooIe6w9cnTSZuvUuagHXzeR6ietdkM4_HdrBdVqJqDlaxCupw-UjoJU-aIln32Jefe01i15Alv67iop-juugPrjqtNdCIiRI5xGYxaAnfe_l7KJBEllKmsj2VGSdPEk/s320/11248871_847825495299891_6379527141998750617_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Perfect swimming conditions</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Another reason why I had chosen to ride through the night was to have flat calm conditions on the lake and get the swim completed before the launch started. And it could not have been better. It was a bit chilly but it was idyllic, and flat, and calm, and the sun rose whilst I was halfway along to the far end. All great stuff.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaO_qKgX0crCSjzUavURt8wNj64zL0nfz5aJvDSzUPqSqvWifSRysgNp2gyoyHrKbGSGUY7RHSjKPKNIk8OMvqrFsTeeJTs-pOSz4fXULZG7MJ-mnfM0cyNb8f3kQxqyl8CW_42OiNUbg/s1600/11796456_847860171963090_6552080110364032807_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaO_qKgX0crCSjzUavURt8wNj64zL0nfz5aJvDSzUPqSqvWifSRysgNp2gyoyHrKbGSGUY7RHSjKPKNIk8OMvqrFsTeeJTs-pOSz4fXULZG7MJ-mnfM0cyNb8f3kQxqyl8CW_42OiNUbg/s320/11796456_847860171963090_6552080110364032807_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Really really cold ...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaHDIu2ck4qa6dQgq6qRXvmpnJv3Ur_a-qKf0MBZw4G_35JzipVmJdXaWBZXr7v0I2GtRt1M8aUyf0ci5-PTHoJpwTxYyKjkLVukfGC8Jbk2DQ_wnkry1hMC3k6s1ozEu4H4dzZ5JWyLI/s1600/11755662_847860191963088_418859150912625343_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaHDIu2ck4qa6dQgq6qRXvmpnJv3Ur_a-qKf0MBZw4G_35JzipVmJdXaWBZXr7v0I2GtRt1M8aUyf0ci5-PTHoJpwTxYyKjkLVukfGC8Jbk2DQ_wnkry1hMC3k6s1ozEu4H4dzZ5JWyLI/s320/11755662_847860191963088_418859150912625343_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">and quite tried already (only 12 hours or so in)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Except ... for the last kilometre or so I was swimming in to cold water where the river was joining the South end of the lake. Consequently when I got out for a breather I was quite literally chattering with the cold and verging on becoming hypothermic.<br />
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Ali, Suzanna and Fiona had walked along the lake shore and had food and supplies for me and Paul popped a couple of jackets on me as well as a buoyancy aid to warm me up. 20 minutes later we poured the last of the flask of tea in to my wetsuit and I was back in the water to swim back to Keswick.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO8GacGUuecbqiLP8obqJp7K1zAunAAmKmM12lM8Ygo0as9EwLqHCkn3EK4AUvxwIw-8p7hls6BgPqARlaFwZZMNiCGJeBlWHSL8eJuDyWauksJ1o8hLeTympYan_Jv_L92jJkklxyjvE/s1600/11760151_847825438633230_4271227195887256972_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO8GacGUuecbqiLP8obqJp7K1zAunAAmKmM12lM8Ygo0as9EwLqHCkn3EK4AUvxwIw-8p7hls6BgPqARlaFwZZMNiCGJeBlWHSL8eJuDyWauksJ1o8hLeTympYan_Jv_L92jJkklxyjvE/s320/11760151_847825438633230_4271227195887256972_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taking on fuel and warming up after the swim.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0ljNhvRgtB7Tj5kY4Y5OTjWj1UNVpfIFe5P01mxgelnWPBBYkUhcTYQFqsgsSWMfOXb6NGHDxwXaQcAY8I8iL6DSU9mP7raqrOgtFuMXkRfB5zeE0R2Xxu-ODdskpRY5ZFkogmfeCZUE/s1600/11204384_847895481959559_9210815592601024164_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0ljNhvRgtB7Tj5kY4Y5OTjWj1UNVpfIFe5P01mxgelnWPBBYkUhcTYQFqsgsSWMfOXb6NGHDxwXaQcAY8I8iL6DSU9mP7raqrOgtFuMXkRfB5zeE0R2Xxu-ODdskpRY5ZFkogmfeCZUE/s320/11204384_847895481959559_9210815592601024164_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of the runners for Leg 1 of The Bob.</td></tr>
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Charmian and Steve were back on duty and gave me breakfast whilst I warmed up in a duvet (not a duvet jacket ... but an actual duvet!) and then I changed in to my fell running gear and mooched up<br />
to The Moot Hall ...<br />
<br />
to be met by 9 (!) runners who wanted to be a part of the event and help me along the way. 2 guys had come up from Retford! Tremendous stuff. I've supported a few people when they have been doing their Bob Graham Rounds but I have never realised just how much of a difference having people alongside makes. It's all very well feeding the runner, giving them juice, keeping them on the route, carrying their poles etc but I now know that just <i>being there</i> is possibly the most important psychological aspect.<br />
<br />
So we started out in perfect conditions and it stayed that way for the whole day. Up Skiddaw (another chap joined us from half way up), over to Great Calva and along to Blencathra (where another guy joined us as well as a few folk who had made the effort to be on the summit for when I came by). Down to Threlkeld to be met by a veritable posse and a change of runners.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTZrekX8KNw_-0nmhco2xsD_IwuRxOS6LvjJWsKwSmMZeld3L8eVYlFKVFybX-HRm4lMcPv_GMxXYckpb5rbEEDfyB2wyCYDTYNM_3I9P8uJsodfJDdyD_BBSf0LtqhDIG5fSyQSnXyGU/s1600/TFxad3HinURqDDJ5lPksPCvLEXTuEBZrGVtTGuSJbdY.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTZrekX8KNw_-0nmhco2xsD_IwuRxOS6LvjJWsKwSmMZeld3L8eVYlFKVFybX-HRm4lMcPv_GMxXYckpb5rbEEDfyB2wyCYDTYNM_3I9P8uJsodfJDdyD_BBSf0LtqhDIG5fSyQSnXyGU/s320/TFxad3HinURqDDJ5lPksPCvLEXTuEBZrGVtTGuSJbdY.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A surprise welcoming committee on Blencathra.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4xyJ45htbAe2miE2ZJk6ktCJTnj1mOLlvho8bK3RflSJJ_tLyZU8vSiKj9wammbJpjKgKjxU1hkLLij-i2AdU6U3EFgEty1yG0OL-e2I9SuUY3k7bc7DqTTTbnEt2Pge73X4TGsCFy5w/s1600/q-3VaPGgIFkfCcbTvUkGLufRkBIyewLC8Tu_knMOYyM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4xyJ45htbAe2miE2ZJk6ktCJTnj1mOLlvho8bK3RflSJJ_tLyZU8vSiKj9wammbJpjKgKjxU1hkLLij-i2AdU6U3EFgEty1yG0OL-e2I9SuUY3k7bc7DqTTTbnEt2Pge73X4TGsCFy5w/s320/q-3VaPGgIFkfCcbTvUkGLufRkBIyewLC8Tu_knMOYyM.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With great views across The Northern Lakes ... but with the dawning realisation that I will need to ascend pretty much every peak on the horizon of this photo. Only 3 down of 42 so far ...</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCddBgv-1ai_-FDI87tbxD8xTkbTgRYR91NgI1pdvqUy8i9URd_XLy0IJ76ALregsEGmMroaqJrvPc10owrmmUf-krNCYOxrJt_mQTzgghxYb-Sh_uPY4jbSbdgMi5STqd9ptJdbXG8Ho/s1600/4MafXDVcooXtvseFfHCkJ1pdmD3guPWFUrBmM-KkbKE.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCddBgv-1ai_-FDI87tbxD8xTkbTgRYR91NgI1pdvqUy8i9URd_XLy0IJ76ALregsEGmMroaqJrvPc10owrmmUf-krNCYOxrJt_mQTzgghxYb-Sh_uPY4jbSbdgMi5STqd9ptJdbXG8Ho/s320/4MafXDVcooXtvseFfHCkJ1pdmD3guPWFUrBmM-KkbKE.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0IjFpc3ttXghGyacZQ9M7Ewz9GXd2DvrTRAtRsqWXLXl9BGx08sLTNxZJoDwQ1fEip8hsy6Kmic6_4sYCl8CVHuQbaHzxWUILwpcBw_A9wxxwxoUkOHdPsbE-rRCgAeUSBscotfvQBT8/s1600/11013568_10153180941673740_5784642845690914029_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0IjFpc3ttXghGyacZQ9M7Ewz9GXd2DvrTRAtRsqWXLXl9BGx08sLTNxZJoDwQ1fEip8hsy6Kmic6_4sYCl8CVHuQbaHzxWUILwpcBw_A9wxxwxoUkOHdPsbE-rRCgAeUSBscotfvQBT8/s320/11013568_10153180941673740_5784642845690914029_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just finishing Leg 1 of The Bob ...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIFZArYb9owD_2e7wQKnRSoXttmKwKjl7LRW63O8buL1d7eB75uQjoJATYJ1t9N53RV8osZxlJ8vund2sSTwhiNs7QWiX2LaE_dJw3eZvOc_m349PqtWApdyEnhn-P03PrJV4-In_VlYM/s1600/11831713_10153180941568740_7273615315490507424_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIFZArYb9owD_2e7wQKnRSoXttmKwKjl7LRW63O8buL1d7eB75uQjoJATYJ1t9N53RV8osZxlJ8vund2sSTwhiNs7QWiX2LaE_dJw3eZvOc_m349PqtWApdyEnhn-P03PrJV4-In_VlYM/s320/11831713_10153180941568740_7273615315490507424_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">to be greeted with a whole selection of goodies.</td></tr>
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Up to Clough Head and along the Dodds to the Helvellyn range (where we were met by some photographers), down to Grisedale Tarn and then we opted for the direct route up to Fairfield.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ4ZhKxlNHGK6kjyL0970rMoynkIMcD3grVY-_gSIVC21Pp4XTFjPTtHPyug_XVf6rqQwoO0J27TLA2ZU-_CInph2QokYcj-VOZasX_aZpjAy2O-zsW2D1agzzFrKdDlIM3_StbtER8Pw/s1600/ZXKMzgFNHMhWbA1ZL3CHZqfDHtzKT3foOeW7rSaJfP0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ4ZhKxlNHGK6kjyL0970rMoynkIMcD3grVY-_gSIVC21Pp4XTFjPTtHPyug_XVf6rqQwoO0J27TLA2ZU-_CInph2QokYcj-VOZasX_aZpjAy2O-zsW2D1agzzFrKdDlIM3_StbtER8Pw/s320/ZXKMzgFNHMhWbA1ZL3CHZqfDHtzKT3foOeW7rSaJfP0.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another summit ticked off but many many more to go. </td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyyHpzFKBOiu8I72n-VcN9zOnEArX90_afar7n7tcS9E-3H4ieoy7lutjV7afYqPY37oEWi4WuViuorYzeTVd-fVaTJr1osOKWQaG7eZEDZW-C-nV5rCqxPuDZwNrEhhxTrWSSbz-GLs8/s1600/CfYbPLCKgegwMgBIxTkWxS-7jWCMuQSMUTRzzg2X-yo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyyHpzFKBOiu8I72n-VcN9zOnEArX90_afar7n7tcS9E-3H4ieoy7lutjV7afYqPY37oEWi4WuViuorYzeTVd-fVaTJr1osOKWQaG7eZEDZW-C-nV5rCqxPuDZwNrEhhxTrWSSbz-GLs8/s320/CfYbPLCKgegwMgBIxTkWxS-7jWCMuQSMUTRzzg2X-yo.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3wQ0vhpWa_vIJM-Zx7vOnu32JxSJ4r3SJ1Y6MK2DRga3VlQ8IUDVSftFf9_EEnbaTUfymbIxIacvuuB2k9-WiEEuMdFochnJ4HGlc4nkpXDYNf20KuBfrlZdQ2kJPZabHr4ZF5-B8znc/s1600/Pnlv5rTne3iJdd-bdAppD_X0z83onr7x8NEppEP9igs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3wQ0vhpWa_vIJM-Zx7vOnu32JxSJ4r3SJ1Y6MK2DRga3VlQ8IUDVSftFf9_EEnbaTUfymbIxIacvuuB2k9-WiEEuMdFochnJ4HGlc4nkpXDYNf20KuBfrlZdQ2kJPZabHr4ZF5-B8znc/s320/Pnlv5rTne3iJdd-bdAppD_X0z83onr7x8NEppEP9igs.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The steep climb up to Fairfield by the direct route.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiplfmgCLM_MNk2rRLCc1mzakOC7gWT_AvgiysZLT4Q4y9iQpt1S9ymVWQTWVWhOy1mWvJDlOCSink7SsntCYQm6rubCVyA5q7LIm7aOMXapprkwEqTMcRucMBHCpxi0_Tzzf-ltNraqB8/s1600/7g7BEuOWJdaBxAeE6Vq-TShPHupnHsmNvatThhnGas8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiplfmgCLM_MNk2rRLCc1mzakOC7gWT_AvgiysZLT4Q4y9iQpt1S9ymVWQTWVWhOy1mWvJDlOCSink7SsntCYQm6rubCVyA5q7LIm7aOMXapprkwEqTMcRucMBHCpxi0_Tzzf-ltNraqB8/s320/7g7BEuOWJdaBxAeE6Vq-TShPHupnHsmNvatThhnGas8.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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It's steep and continuous but I had good climbing legs and we made good progress. All great stuff but I had a toenail issue and had done irreparable damage. However there was the welcome distraction of the fact that the light was absolutely fantastic and we enjoyed a superb sunset as we descended to Dunmail Raise.<br />
<br />
And another change of runners as well as a fuel stop and I opted for a cat nap in the van. I was, not surprisingly, feeling a little bit jaded.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwQldQdOjqUofK-RdRiNTr5xQPjY7QcOmt4BDkdNfeL3AqZIhQktQt0Cs8iAIGZ8Rr43kahFZ0GmS2p82MerWVs4fKPpcSpTTc4ZoVMd36e_jA7IXVxTreocsQ_nrDdR02xZsA1GkBs_s/s1600/fisvahCK0kAOgQZjpTKXiSsrytSH3nD6ZOzyZx94ggY.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwQldQdOjqUofK-RdRiNTr5xQPjY7QcOmt4BDkdNfeL3AqZIhQktQt0Cs8iAIGZ8Rr43kahFZ0GmS2p82MerWVs4fKPpcSpTTc4ZoVMd36e_jA7IXVxTreocsQ_nrDdR02xZsA1GkBs_s/s320/fisvahCK0kAOgQZjpTKXiSsrytSH3nD6ZOzyZx94ggY.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just before my lowest ebb ... about to set off on Leg 3.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj68q37Ts-kV4vANgqrg1umJGWfSfj4wk5nzeB0jlpqTDldH_rYu0eeFEa6Vj7LKzLfblVjNLosBVkPrXCLb1csbXT89WZBYy8nyFkkvC-kkxytMhLGc7-NLcgWDq0v3kh8g3-8KxJQ5Tk/s1600/1491778_848103465272094_8599362665224705839_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj68q37Ts-kV4vANgqrg1umJGWfSfj4wk5nzeB0jlpqTDldH_rYu0eeFEa6Vj7LKzLfblVjNLosBVkPrXCLb1csbXT89WZBYy8nyFkkvC-kkxytMhLGc7-NLcgWDq0v3kh8g3-8KxJQ5Tk/s320/1491778_848103465272094_8599362665224705839_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just starting out on Leg 3 of The Bob ... into the night.</td></tr>
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Going up Steel Fell was surprisingly ok ... but it wasn't long in to the darkness that I started to feel totally, and utterly, drained. By now I had been on the go for around 30 hours but I hadn't slept for over 42 hours and it was a struggle. I always knew that I would be doing part of The Bob in the dark but I didn't want to be doing it over 2 nights .. again partly why I had opted for the Fred at night to have me doing a day, a night and a day on The Bob ... I definitely didn't want 2 nights on the Bob.<br />
<br />
The navigation on Leg 3 is reasonably tricky by day ... but at night when you are working on straight lines with map and compass it is just a slog. Even with a GPS and 2 meters accuracy it is very easy to be just to one side or the other of the trod and be getting wet feet, missing the best footfall and dealing with grassy hummocks and awkward rocky steps. Martin Bergerud was doing most of the navigation and, along with Donald Ferguson, was going to be accompanying me on Legs 3 AND 4. A friend of Martin was along for Leg 3 as far as the Bowfell area and a good friend of mine, Giles Ruck, was keeping by my side throughout the night.<br />
<br />
Interestingly Giles was with me on Everest in 2011 and had a really bad time of it for a few days when we went up to Camp 2, on up to 3 (an aborted summit bid because the weather changed) and then back to 2 where we waited for the next weather window. It would have been pointless to expend all our energy dropping to EBC for possibly only one night before returning to C2 so we stayed put at 6,400m and Giles really suffered. Thankfully we were sharing a tent and I was able to chat him through a variety of different options which meant that he then didn't go to EBC for a rest (we both realised that he would have just kept on walking and gone home). Anyway after a bit of supplementary oxygen and a morale boosting chat it turned him around and he went on to summit a couple of days later in fine style. And now the tables were completely and utterly 180° turned around and it was Giles who was talking me through a really dreadful night. I was woozy, tired, hallucinogenic, stumbling (and mumbling) and a liability to myself. And when I just asked for a 5 minute 'power nap' he dutifully sat by my side and allowed me to have ten. This happened a couple of times before we started up Bowfell and then, utterly spent, as the sky was just starting to brighten I needed another lie down. Out for the count.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdTGrPMjsPE4N3JCvy0puehYHyGz6qIGHbfDf5q0ZJPXBDCiPHbo1FpeRNrdqwruaiXBRQRUMcPIuPAC30tjloYOx5WWwOixpLXTnB-ZubsWu0nxJlwPLwt5GALnZUYgLL6wTbK5HgCz4/s1600/0MdnEwRnZu4cDOtpmeUjjUhonMNx6TPxT0eLCMBmILI.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdTGrPMjsPE4N3JCvy0puehYHyGz6qIGHbfDf5q0ZJPXBDCiPHbo1FpeRNrdqwruaiXBRQRUMcPIuPAC30tjloYOx5WWwOixpLXTnB-ZubsWu0nxJlwPLwt5GALnZUYgLL6wTbK5HgCz4/s320/0MdnEwRnZu4cDOtpmeUjjUhonMNx6TPxT0eLCMBmILI.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unconscious somewhere along The Langdales</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
But, miraculously, when I woke (was woken) 10 minutes later not only was I revived but, with the sight of the sun rising and with the clouds below us, I was totally invigorated and didn't need another lie down. There's something about the wave length of the light that just got me going and kept me going. It's not as if the end was in sight because I reckoned I still had another 15 hours or so to go. But something happened that just changed everything.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7_SwFLY75bTedPTE0m_V91iZBws8YHmHTWoUnFKJjFMlJ0zsAGWVmAxVyx8JjD-qUXnZkfHUK0o_egL3ZAKdiqxFjKn2NDaZrikKkVyRN-IMkzNEvWfbmDmlRd_Vek7izM2rgoA9fgf0/s1600/1dx6JChgNO4mAumehTS5fAKI7FdrOeAOgvZgXAbNGvM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7_SwFLY75bTedPTE0m_V91iZBws8YHmHTWoUnFKJjFMlJ0zsAGWVmAxVyx8JjD-qUXnZkfHUK0o_egL3ZAKdiqxFjKn2NDaZrikKkVyRN-IMkzNEvWfbmDmlRd_Vek7izM2rgoA9fgf0/s320/1dx6JChgNO4mAumehTS5fAKI7FdrOeAOgvZgXAbNGvM.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Martin contemplating the route ... and the view ... and the fact that he had just spent an ENTIRE night on Leg 3 of The Bob</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmcDKEHSrVxPXXTVu6bd8d1VLeLMo_2Zo9uMfM8nbb_D4i0crVXnX7RcreY4U2pvG7jc2bAslI-i5HUjg-KjtRGfw7Mi3Qs6LvB9SfA0zHJFQb2qEKw26sGnoit4ih65eTtJ13xEBduNA/s1600/cLQrnp-QMoK4Uoeuk4XtSJOMkOYmQUwHELbQX3KYFh0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmcDKEHSrVxPXXTVu6bd8d1VLeLMo_2Zo9uMfM8nbb_D4i0crVXnX7RcreY4U2pvG7jc2bAslI-i5HUjg-KjtRGfw7Mi3Qs6LvB9SfA0zHJFQb2qEKw26sGnoit4ih65eTtJ13xEBduNA/s320/cLQrnp-QMoK4Uoeuk4XtSJOMkOYmQUwHELbQX3KYFh0.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Everything changed after this nap. Dawn really lifted my spirits.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF1f0AhvCOPCl6GpvPphdUMMrlGX4aMEpJqSEF1n2FmiiyoIW1ZPze4MzaphmDXJF6NS-Ga2EywEbHlvw5VjXsfO2q4RcGsYwAOqvobwhoI2oDQPYJjBQtGx07cpA_BwrjZjU_IQEm1t8/s1600/mC2qZiEqJLC2FvZDXeCMnTd9fT6mDF_KPEXCrw55LTc.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF1f0AhvCOPCl6GpvPphdUMMrlGX4aMEpJqSEF1n2FmiiyoIW1ZPze4MzaphmDXJF6NS-Ga2EywEbHlvw5VjXsfO2q4RcGsYwAOqvobwhoI2oDQPYJjBQtGx07cpA_BwrjZjU_IQEm1t8/s320/mC2qZiEqJLC2FvZDXeCMnTd9fT6mDF_KPEXCrw55LTc.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What's there not to like about a sunrise in the hills?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Meanwhile we had now been on the go on Leg 3 for about 8 hours! And still hadn't reached Scafell. Martin and Donald were going to be in for a 20 hour day at this rate. Martin rang home and before he could even ask his wife Lisa whether she could muster some troops she told him that it was all taken care of. Lisa, and Kate Simpson, had pre empted and done it already. They had both been with me on Leg 2, gone home, showered, ate, slept, got up at 5, checked the tracker, realised I had slowed down and had done the necessary ringing around. So when we got down to Wasdale there they were with Ella (from Leg 1), along with Steve and there were 2 others who were due to meet us on the hill. Bloody brilliant.<br />
<br />
And the legend that is Joss Naylor came for a chat and a pep talk. Double bloody brilliant.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit45ePRPVLI-MGwGI_X0e26kHzBcK0Lwu2x689yByNomfLmDpiFJ3-9oxY_N6u_yEOeO093hbRGSqKHuJm_Up9uF2UPL3UvB4ZxH5BXb2eGmWYWyhWfY6vagOQPChw1S1vwaFGvFEpieg/s1600/11751961_848292101919897_2970902058062986313_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit45ePRPVLI-MGwGI_X0e26kHzBcK0Lwu2x689yByNomfLmDpiFJ3-9oxY_N6u_yEOeO093hbRGSqKHuJm_Up9uF2UPL3UvB4ZxH5BXb2eGmWYWyhWfY6vagOQPChw1S1vwaFGvFEpieg/s320/11751961_848292101919897_2970902058062986313_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Words of encouragement from Joss Naylor.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Yewbarrow. It's a steep hard climb straight out of Wasdale and strikes fear in to the hearts of tired Bob Grahamers. It is a crux of the whole route and more people stop at Wasdale (or go part way up Yewbarrow and give up) than at any other part of the whole route. Rather surprisingly I found it to be pretty ok ... but then I didn't have the constraint of trying to get round The Bob in under 24 hours (and indeed I had now been on The Bob for 26 hours!!). The rain was due in at 11 and at 11:05 pitter patter. By 12 we were all fully togged. By 12:30 it was really quite blowy and by 2 in the afternoon it was absolutely dreadful.<br />
<br />
Leg 4 has got a lot of BIG hills and ascents - Yewbarrow, over to Steeple, Pillar, Kirk Fell and Great Gable. All credible hills in their own right but linking them all together, along with the various hummocks and bumps along the way, as well as tagging on Green Gable, Brandreth and Grey Knotts on to the end, makes Leg 4 a big day out. And my toe was giving me quite a lot of grief but you just have to get on with it ... and we did. All the way down to Honister to be met by another posse of fresh runners (10 in total!!) as well as the usual road support crew and a whole host of well wishers.<br />
<br />
The end was possibly in sight and completion, at long last, seemed feasible. It wasn't in the bag but we had definitely broken the back of it.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
It's another stiff climb out of Honister up to Dalehead but with a fresh crew and new banter we pegged it up in good order and, after Hindscarth I was finally approaching the final summit, Robinson.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj79Sa0ijNqyHfPp_JiCDoB6xi6f5zpSRi-Mfqohh0PgEw-EaPlxp6HG-ESEObwaEapw5laHCIBb5Wi8U1NKMpL_2r1rNMOfbQapwK2ji1lT1jwufJiz6ZVZZsby1drmMZ8NahKFqcQ9sk/s1600/1Cb5V-VvhcQw6ObwQ2LvunIYgozvDDANgb04Z8_j2Ek.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj79Sa0ijNqyHfPp_JiCDoB6xi6f5zpSRi-Mfqohh0PgEw-EaPlxp6HG-ESEObwaEapw5laHCIBb5Wi8U1NKMpL_2r1rNMOfbQapwK2ji1lT1jwufJiz6ZVZZsby1drmMZ8NahKFqcQ9sk/s320/1Cb5V-VvhcQw6ObwQ2LvunIYgozvDDANgb04Z8_j2Ek.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gnarly conditions ... just what you don't really want when you have been on the go for more than 48 hours. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8QkfevISrXvfg9L3n43kkmivsOWEkLtO0pP-YaYnVECCArpAKOrhyphenhyphenz_ji8nRZb5OG7idy50OzUGHLxvPJwu540BDTFIYpcNmXH3uZs5nyM8yAQgBppNoj6n2-ri9nxf1gq39daDD5Nu8/s1600/_soDO9wcbxWCxfk897B-kHWNNRU-m3oGi9JhFCVPPRY.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8QkfevISrXvfg9L3n43kkmivsOWEkLtO0pP-YaYnVECCArpAKOrhyphenhyphenz_ji8nRZb5OG7idy50OzUGHLxvPJwu540BDTFIYpcNmXH3uZs5nyM8yAQgBppNoj6n2-ri9nxf1gq39daDD5Nu8/s320/_soDO9wcbxWCxfk897B-kHWNNRU-m3oGi9JhFCVPPRY.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">41st top - just one more summit to go. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: left;">
It's still a way to go to get back to Keswick but it was (mostly) down hill all the way and then when we were on the road there were more people joining, clapping, meeting and greeting and wishing me well along the way. Utterly, utterly uplifting.</div>
</div>
<br />
And so, 52 hours after starting out on the Fred Whiten I had cycled over 6 high passes (as well as various other hills and climbs), swam 2 lengths of Derwentwater and made a circuit of 42 Lakeland Peak covering something in the region of 180 or so miles with a cumulative ascent of nearly 12,500m. Now that, I reckon, is a reasonably big day out!<br />
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<br />
As well as the memories of my kind Sherpa friends, the company of fellow cyclists, canoeist and runners, my support crew and my friends and family one great aspect that kept me going, and made me realise that this was far FAR bigger than I had ever imagined, was that the donations came in before the event, kept coming in throughout the venture and, indeed, have still been arriving to this day.<br />
<br />
So it is with great GREAT thanks that I salute everyone single one of you whether you watched and clapped, got sweaty and wet with me, donated, nodded your head in acknowledgement or posted an uplifting comment at some stage during the whole process. I did it ... but I couldn't have done it without you.<br />
<br />
Many many thanks one and all.<br />
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<br />
Oh, and by the way, the total now stands at just over £52,000 and is going to make a huge difference.<br />
<br />
Indeed I am now sat at Abu Dhabi international waiting for my connecting flight to Kathmandu and I have about my person some of the ££s that have been donated that I will be handing over to the families I have been raising funds for.<br />
<br />
The majority of the money won't go to them directly but instead will be used to pay for the childrens' school fees. But hopefully, when I see the families in the next few weeks, they will realise that people out there are helping in a whole variety of different ways and that the future, whilst being bleak at the moment, at least is a future with a glimmer of hope.<br />
<br />
Especially for their children and the possibility that they might still be given the opportunity to better themselves.<br />
<br />
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<a href="http://www.justgiving.com/timmosedale">www.justgiving.com/timmosedale</a></div>
<br />Tim Mosedalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05731203299993144363noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2460622843914317671.post-83853387215350141482015-10-03T06:13:00.002-07:002015-12-09T09:14:09.794-08:00Age, ability and experience - prerequisites being proposed for potential clients on Everest.<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">Everest would appear to be in the news quite a
lot right now.<o:p></o:p></span>
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">(If you can't be bothered to read the blog and
would prefer a short video taking a light hearted approach to getting round the
'rules' have a look at my interviews with wannabe Everest climbers in Keswick).</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/xIFvlvs2s1M" width="400"></iframe>
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; line-height: 19.32px;">If, however, you have the time and inclination for a <span style="color: red;">more serious look</span> in to the subject then please read on ...</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">People don't die on Everest from being too old or too young (although it's only a matter of time). They don't die because of a disability (although it could be a contributory factor). They certainly don't die just because they previously hadn't been on a different mountain that was 6,500m high (previous experience at altitude on one trip doesn't mean that you will perform well on another ... but psychologically it may well help as you have taken away an unknown).</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">What people <span class="text_exposed_show" style="display: inline;">die from on Everest are generally (low down) mistakes accidents and mishap and (high up) lack of oxygen, exhaustion or altitude related complications such as HACE / HAPE / AMS.</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">But the good old Ministry of Tourism are considering imposing an age limit for those wanting to become the youngest / oldest summiters.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">I can see where they are coming from but in reality this will only affect one or two people a year.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">They are also talking about experience ... but they are placing experience in to the realm of having summited a peak of 6,500m. With all due respect to everyone who has summited, say, Mera Peak (just short of 6,500m but will probably be seen as the benchmark) you can walk / trek up Mera without any previous experience but does that suddenly qualify you for the next expedition to Everest? I, personally, would say no. What about the Uber Alpinist who has over 20 years of hard climbing and mountaineering under their belt who has just forged a new route on Denali? I'm afraid that it is 'only' 6,194m and therefore you DON'T QUALIFY. What?</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Experience is hugely subjective and there should be due diligence from the client AND the guides / companies to determine who is suitably experienced. If you are a liability to yourself then you are a liability to everyone around you. And perversely the really inexperienced, if they ask around enough, will eventually manage to get on to Everest with a shoddy outfit where they won't be looked after, their Climbing Sherpas will be as inexperienced as they are, they won't have enough (or spare) oxygen and they will become a problem for not only that team but for everyone else on the mountain. The likes of David Sharp and Shriya Shah-Klorfine spring to mind. They shouldn't have been there in the first place and they died trying.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">(Dis)ability though? Pah! There are plenty of (dis)abled mountaineers out there who are far more proficient and experienced than some of the fools I have seen on the mountain. This is a totally subjective area and cannot / should not be regulated.
I agree that there are certain conditions and ailments that people may have that mean that they are going to be a potential liability. But, with the right training, a critical eye for what is achievable given the disability, the right guidance, staffing and provision of expertise there is no reason why, say, a blind mountaineer shouldn't be on the mountain (and indeed a few blind mountaineers have now summited along with one legged, no legged, no armed etc etc people have succeeded and are surely pioneers who have shown just what is possible to those that they represent).</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">But to say that these people, from now on, would be excluded doesn't sit well with me. They are being discriminated against by people who don't understand the nature of the event that they are policing.
<span style="line-height: 19.32px;">In Nepal a person who has lost a leg probably can't work and will inevitably end up as a beggar on the street or a person in a village who needs to be looked after by the wider community. To that end people view disability differently in Nepal and they are likely to see what the person CAN'T do as opposed to what they CAN ACHIEVE. They see the wheelchair rather than the person in it. Evidently the officials at the Ministry of Tourism have never heard of, or never watched, the Para Olympics where sportmen and sportwomen are performing almost as hard, fast, long and high as able bodied athletes.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">And, for that matter, how can someone who is a disabled person who is a competent mountaineer be discriminated against in favour of the totally inexperienced inept person who wants to tick off Everest? Even if they have summited a 6,500m peak?</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">As long as they are catered for in the correct manner and are not going to endanger themselves, their staff and other mountaineers around them then why shouldn't partially sighted, hearing impaired, club footed, hair lipped, ginger haired mountaineers be on the big hill?</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Obviously I am being slightly flippant in my list but where, exactly, do you draw the line?</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">The officials at the Ministry of Tourism do not actually understand mountaineering in the slightest.
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">For a flippant look at the issue read <a href="http://www.markhorrell.com/blog/2015/breaking-news-people-with-size-14-feet-can-no-longer-climb-mount-everest/" target="_blank">Mark Horrel's update</a>.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">For another good write up have a look at <a href="http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2015/09/29/nepal-to-limit-everest-climbers-through-new-rules-again/" target="_blank">Alan Arnette's update</a>.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Have a listen to my <a href="https://soundcloud.com/jackie-leonard-1/age-restrictions-on-everest" target="_blank">radio interview with BBC World Service</a>.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Or to see why people actually fail on Everest have a look at my <a href="http://www.everestexpedition.co.uk/everest_south_col/why_people_fail_on_everest.htm" target="_blank">previous blog post on the subject</a>.
</span>Tim Mosedalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05731203299993144363noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2460622843914317671.post-2697081576720687792015-07-24T09:05:00.003-07:002015-07-24T09:05:36.025-07:00Tracking and updatesI'll have a tracker with my throughout my crazy event so feel free to check in and see how I'm doing. It's at http://maps.opentracking.co.uk/mosedale15.cfm<br />
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My FaceBook page will be updated throughout (hopefully) so please look at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Everest-Expedition/343655569085328<br />
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Also donations can be made at https://www.justgiving.com/timmosedale or you can text FFBG48 £5 to 70070 (or any other amount should you feel so inclined).<br />
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And feel free to spread the word ...<br />
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Sorry but got to dash!<br />
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Cheers - TimTim Mosedalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05731203299993144363noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2460622843914317671.post-64424434807095134152015-07-23T01:47:00.002-07:002015-07-23T01:47:40.602-07:00The event is .... imminentWhilst I might have been out training every day for 50 days and posting daily updates to FB I haven't managed to be quite so conscientious with my Blog. There are only so many hours in the day and whilst I have been trying to get the miles in I have also trying to make sure that I still spend some quality time with my family (as well as manage the B&B).<br />
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So ... my first piece of advice is that if you want to know what I have been doing please take a look at my FB page (<a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Everest-Expedition/343655569085328" target="_blank">Everest Expedition</a>) which has been used for the purposes of updating about my training and the donations I have been receiving for the families of the staff who died last month.<br />
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I'll be starting out on my mega Lakes triathlon Friday evening 24th July at 18:00 with a cycle round The Fred Whitton route from Keswick and back to Keswick. After that I'll be in Derwentwater for 2 lenghts of the lake followed by the Bob Graham Round. As a few people have said just one of these events is big. 2 together is gruelling but all 3, back to back, is insane. And now, as the time approaches for the event to start, I can whole heartedly agree.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnjYKq1pGoek9XVEd-F3zHpijOCTSSrhXZvkGH-j_QVFUwqo9Hp_hCNauXpNbCjkirrB32OdL5L5bJEqEBIU5ObHzFTJZKm18XEr1fCd_vjbhszX0_mRngHTI071HaITbfsOgHlpopEi4/s1600/The+event.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnjYKq1pGoek9XVEd-F3zHpijOCTSSrhXZvkGH-j_QVFUwqo9Hp_hCNauXpNbCjkirrB32OdL5L5bJEqEBIU5ObHzFTJZKm18XEr1fCd_vjbhszX0_mRngHTI071HaITbfsOgHlpopEi4/s400/The+event.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">The forthcoming event. Black shows The Fred Whitton (112 miles over 6 Lakeland passes), blue shows the openwater swim (5.5 miles in Derwentwater) and the red shows the Bob Graham Round (66 miles across 42 Lakeland Peaks). I'm aiming to do it ALL, back to back, in under 48 hours!<br /></td></tr>
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The reason for the event is to raise money to put some children through school. They are the children of my staff who died whilst I was on Everest this year. They were supposedly safe down at Base Camp and the unprecedented happened when the avalanche that was triggered by the earthquake swept away Everest Base Camp. In Nepal there isn't the social security and child benefit that we might qualify for. There is insurance ... but the families will have possibly spent this on the puja for their funerals. The wives probably (almost certainly) haven't got careers of their own. So ... I'm cycling and swimming and running in the hope that you might feel my effort worthy of a donation.<br />
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You can easily donate by going to https://www.justgiving.com/timmosedale/<br />
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So far I have managed to raise around £35,000 - which I am very humbled by. But to put 6 children who are of school age through classes for an average of 10 years each is going to take at least £50,000 because I don't want to start their education and not be able to finish it. Along with other families who have fallen on hard times and are in need of their house being rebuilt or some financial support I estimate that £100,000 is a healthy, and achievable, target.<br />
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The charity that the funds will be going to is http://www.supportingnepalschildren.org.uk/ and they will make sure that 100% of donations received via my cause are passed on to pay for school fees or go to families affected. No commission, no admin fees - just money from you to where it is supposed to go.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-1cmYfNuASkDgyZaG_RmQyqR9wMzmzDT9Rre1FPKI-f-eAv5fJ4jyEVAqvEwEllEBanJJeqSxNI0V_48fz9viLdlzZsJwJuZJtny7rve35-8zi00B1cmLc-YRsQwhSBW4AvVLNOe02Uo/s1600/Map+-+training+so+far.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-1cmYfNuASkDgyZaG_RmQyqR9wMzmzDT9Rre1FPKI-f-eAv5fJ4jyEVAqvEwEllEBanJJeqSxNI0V_48fz9viLdlzZsJwJuZJtny7rve35-8zi00B1cmLc-YRsQwhSBW4AvVLNOe02Uo/s400/Map+-+training+so+far.jpg" width="390" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Some of the training I did<br /></td></tr>
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And here's a whole load of photos of me out and about. Sometimes alone but often I have been lucky to have been out with some great mates. They, and the donations that have come in, have really spurred me on.<br />
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All I need to do is put it all together!!!<br />
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Tim Mosedalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05731203299993144363noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2460622843914317671.post-5988802108144041952015-05-08T11:37:00.000-07:002015-06-29T12:55:53.346-07:0050 days of training for 48 hours of suffering to raise money for families in Nepal ...<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">Folks - if you are contemplating where to go
for your trekking holiday in October then I can heartily recommend Nepal. Yes
they have just had an epic event of biblical proportions but by the time the
next trekking season is upon us they will be well on the road to getting things
sorted and back on their collective feet again.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">If you are hesitant then please remember that
there are 4 and a half months between now and then. The danger from aftershocks
will be so diminished by then that it won't even register. The chance of
infection won't even be worth considering by then. The clearing up won't have
finished but the fact is that life goes on and the locals will be very keen to
get back to business as usual.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">If people don't go trekking and climbing this
autumn then the repercussions are very far reaching. As it is the country gets
95% of it's tourist trade in 4 months (April & May / October &
November). May has just been written off. If the tourism takes a dive in Oct
and Nov then effectively families will be relying on their recent April income
to see them all the way through until next April.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">How would you feel if your income stream
stopped TODAY and you had to make your funds last until next April?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">For those in 'The West' we would undoubtedly
have the fall back option of getting unemployment benefit / child benefit / tax
credits of some sort as well as free school meals / prescriptions as well as
qualifying for free this, that and the other.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">In Nepal they don't have state funded benefits
and are wholly reliant on income. No work ... no income. Sore leg ... no NHS.
Sore leg preventing the ability to work ... no income.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">So please, please don't be put off going to
Nepal for the next trekking season because your valuable £s will help to kick
start the local economy. The local economy won't benefit from the international
aid and donations that are pouring in to the country. Yes that money will go to
infrastructure / rebuilding / health and welfare but it won't be spent (or
donated) to teahouse owners. That money won't be handed to porters. It won't go
to the vegetable seller or the stone mason. And the stone mason won't repair
the teahouse if the teahouse owner doesn't have cashflow. The entire local economy
is in danger of collapsing.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">Not only do the trekking regions need tourists
to reinvigorate the local economy but the families who have lost loved ones
need money too. The families of the 3 staff that we sadly lost recently (Pasang
Temba, Kumar and Tenzing) don't have 'Plan B'. The bread winner has gone and no
they literally don't have any bread.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">I am personally raising money for the families
and this will go directly to them. Ideally this will be for the education of
the 9 children that have been left behind but the family of Pasang Temba also
need to rebuild their house which fell down (no insurance will be covering
that).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">I am undertaking a personal challenge involving
a certain amount of hardship in the hope that you will feel that my venture is
worthy of a donation.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 12pt;">I am training for 50 days to attempt the following:</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">Start at The Moot Hall in Keswick.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Get on a bike</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">
Cycle the Fred Whitton route (approx 112 miles + 6 Lakeland passes & 3,800m of ascent)<br />
Back to The Moot Hall<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">Change in to swimming gear</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">Go to the lake and swim the length of Derwentwater<br />And back again (around 4.5km each way with 0m of ascent)<br />Back to The Moot Hall.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">Change in to fell running gear<br />
Run (walk) The Bob Graham Round (66 miles, 42 peaks, 27,000ft ascent and
descent)<br />
Back to The Moot Hall.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">Collapse<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">All in all I will be aiming to do all 3 events,
back to back, in under 48 hours.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 16px;">The training started yesterday with a run up and over Latrigg and continued today with a Baltic cold swim in Derwentwater this morning and another fell run this afternoon, this time up and over Walla Crag. I will be out and about </span><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 16px;">at some stage or other</span><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 16px;"> every day for the next 50 days getting ready for this crazy venture. In only a few weeks I will need to be fell running for stretches of between 4 and 6 hours. Soon after that I should be ready to be doing 2 legs of the Bob Graham Round back to back and certainly before the big event I should be doing 3 passes on a bike, 2 legs of The Bob AND a couple of mile's swimming in a day.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 16px;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 16px;">Wish me luck!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">Please follow my training and progress on my
Everest Expedition Page on FaceBook*. If you like the page and sign up for
notifications you will get alerted every time I post. I hope that you enjoy the
show.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">And I hope that you might sponsor me.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">But most of all I hope that you will consider
trekking in Nepal in October. You will not be disappointed.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">*https://www.facebook.com/pages/Everest-Expedition/343655569085328?ref=hl<o:p></o:p></span></div>
Tim Mosedalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05731203299993144363noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2460622843914317671.post-7498953878039353552015-04-10T04:15:00.001-07:002015-04-10T04:15:38.415-07:00Gokyo to Phortse<p style="margin: 0px; font-size: 12px; font-family: Helvetica;">An awesome day trekking from Gokyo to Phortse today. We deliberately set off early and were rewarded not only with amazing views and a quiet trail but also crisp snow which made for easy progress underfoot.</p>
<p style="margin: 0px; font-size: 12px; font-family: Helvetica; min-height: 15px;"><br></p>
<p style="margin: 0px; font-size: 12px; font-family: Helvetica;">We followed the main route down towards Machermo and then crossed to the East side of the valley where it becomes a much quieter and less trod route. Having said that we saw a total of 12 trekkers throughout the day - the busiest I've ever known it!</p>
<p style="margin: 0px; font-size: 12px; font-family: Helvetica; min-height: 15px;"><br></p>
<p style="margin: 0px; font-size: 12px; font-family: Helvetica;">The route meanders in and out of valleys and up and over shoulders so, despite dropping about 600m elevation, it is still a full on day.</p>
<p style="margin: 0px; font-size: 12px; font-family: Helvetica; min-height: 15px;"><br></p>
<p style="margin: 0px; font-size: 12px; font-family: Helvetica;">We've met up with John (aka my Dad) again, who trekked here from Machermo, and we have all just had some hot orange and enjoyed some doughnuts that we're very kindly given to me by my friends at Gokyo as I left this morning.</p><p style="margin: 0px; font-size: 12px; font-family: Helvetica;"><br></p><p style="margin: 0px; font-size: 12px; font-family: Helvetica;">We are now poised to venture around the corner to Pangboche tomorrow where we will join the main Khumbu trail for a few days. After a rest at Dingboche we will spend 3 nights under canvas going up and over the Kongma La before dropping down to Lobuche and thence on to EBC where we will arrive on the 18th April.</p>
<p style="margin: 0px; font-size: 12px; font-family: Helvetica; min-height: 15px;"><br></p>
<p style="margin: 0px; font-size: 12px; font-family: Helvetica;">It sounds like the route through The Khumbu Icefall has been fixed all the way to C2 which is great news. The fact that we are out of the way for the time being is no bad thing so that our Sirdar, Kame, and the Climbing Sherpas can concentrate on the business of getting logistics sorted on the hill.</p>
<p style="margin: 0px; font-size: 12px; font-family: Helvetica; min-height: 15px;"><br></p>
<p style="margin: 0px; font-size: 12px; font-family: Helvetica;">Very much looking forward to working with the guys again and introducing them to my trusty group.</p><p style="margin: 0px; font-size: 12px; font-family: Helvetica;"><br></p><p style="margin: 0px; font-size: 12px; font-family: Helvetica;">Photos to follow.</p>Tim Mosedalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05731203299993144363noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2460622843914317671.post-29316721856749067072015-04-09T04:30:00.000-07:002015-04-09T04:30:03.289-07:00A belated update ...<span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">I'm sat in a teahouse at Lungde, the last settlement before the Renjo La. We're at 4,350m, it's a long way from anywhere and there's snow gently falling outside. I'm sat here with 3 guys who are hoping that, with my guidance, mentoring and leadership, they will be able to summit Mount Everest sometime in May. There's a lot they need to do for themselves but it's only with my top tips, handy hints, advice and putting everything in to context that they can envisage what it will actually be like high on the mountain. </span><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">How can people prepare for something like this when it's their first attempt?</span><span style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;"> Yes they all have previous expeditions and mountaineering forays under their collective belts, but none of them have even been close to being this high before. The enormity of the task lies heavily on my conscience because if I fail in my task of providing them with any aspect of the expedition they may fail. Or worse.</span><br />
<div style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(130, 98, 83, 0.0980392); color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961); font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;">
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8 days ago we flew to Lukla and arrived late (around <a href="x-apple-data-detectors://0" x-apple-data-detectors-result="0" x-apple-data-detectors-type="calendar-event" x-apple-data-detectors="true">11:30</a>), but we were still on the first flight. For the past few days there had been many interruptions to international flights coming in and out of Kathmandu and flights to Lukla had been infrequent. We had boarded the bus and sat on the vehicle tantalisingly close to the aircraft for half an hour or so before we'd been taken back to the departures terminal where we waited again, munching biscuits and drinking tea having forsaken an early breakfast back at the hotel to allow for another half an hour in bed. We'd been collected <a href="x-apple-data-detectors://1" x-apple-data-detectors-result="1" x-apple-data-detectors-type="calendar-event" x-apple-data-detectors="true">at 05:15</a> and the guys from Himalayan Guides, as usual, had made the transit through to the departures lounge as efficient as can be expected. Later, whilst waiting for our first call, my agent (the legendary Iswari) had shown me the webcam app he had for Lukla and it didn't look entirely promising. Kathmandu was bright and crisp following the rain from the previous afternoon which had cleared the haze, but Lukla was looking cloudy. So we waited.</div>
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When we were called for the bus for the second time it was a mad dash and scramble ... to sit on the bus again. And then the call came and we were on the plane. Then the engines fired up and we were taxiing.</div>
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Half an hour later we were the first of only 5 or 6 flights that got in that day and, not only that, all our bags were there too.</div>
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We popped round to see Dawa Phutti and Ang Pasang at Paradise Lodge where we had a much need brunch before hitting the trail after I'd briefed the group about a few dos and don'ts and how life would be on the trail.</div>
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We were aiming for Monjo but the late arrival in to Lukla meant that we were still a bit short when I felt it was time to stop. We'd popped in to see Sonam Sherpa for a coke and chocolate bar (I'd met Phendan at Lukla and he'd phoned ahead) but even though we were full of energy I felt it would be unfair on the porters for us to continue in to the dark.</div>
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Having spent a night at Tok Tok (what a great name) we were one of the first teams through the National Park Entrance because we were half an hour ahead of the trekkers at Phak Ding. We had tea with Pasang Dawa in Monjo and then headed gradually up the zig zags to Namche. After lunch, WiFi, coffee & doughnuts in Namche we continued another hour along the trail to stay with my long standing friend Tashi at Ama Dablam Lodge.</div>
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(For those who don't know, Tashi and her husband Lakpa, accompanied by their youngest son Karma, came to the UK last year and stayed at my B&B before we all went to London for a private audience with HRH Prince Charles. But I digress.)</div>
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In between our 2 night stay at Tashi's we mooched up to the Mong La via an amazing hidden staircase to gain a bit of altitude for a couple of hours before returning to Kyanjuma. After getting back to Tashi's she allowed us to see her private prayer room which is always such an amazing privilege.</div>
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The next morning we bade Tashi farewell and she gave us some Kharta scarves as a blessing for our onward journey and we trekked up to Khumjung where we said a temporary goodbye to Loraine and John (aka my Dad). They were off to visit the Everest View Hotel before heading back to Tashi's and then their itinerary was to take them very gradually up the Gokyo valley. In theory we will all be reunited tomorrow!</div>
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My trusty Everest wannabes and I went up and over the col to Syangboche where we stopped for tea before pressing on via Thamo (lunch) to Thame where we stayed with my friends Dr Kami and his wife Da Dolma. They have a new addition to the family and are truly delighted to have a grandson (their son married the daughter of my Sirdar, Kame Nuru Sherpa, just over two years ago).</div>
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We stopped at Thame for 2 nights and visited the monastery in the hillside above the village for a private puja and, with more Kharta adorning our shoulders we said goodbye to Thame continued to Marylung to stay with some more friends of mine. Sadly Ang Chutin wasn't present but I was delighted to hear that, following my advice that she contact a friend of mine in KTM who organises running events, she has competed in a variety of different races. One was a 60km trail run up and over various passes and she completed it in 9 hours coming in as fastest female. Presently she is studying in Germany and is set to run the Berlin marathon in the not too distant future. I'm now wondering about getting her across to the UK for a week or so in summer to have a go at The Bob Graham Round - but I'll have to sound her out about that when I get back home in June.</div>
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Phurba Sherpa runs the teahouse in Marylung with his wife and they are an amazingly cheerful and resilient couple. Phurba has summited Everest 8 times (once from The North) and was obviously very saddened by the events last year. Not only the disaster that befell the 16 Climbing Sherpas who died but also the way the whole event then unfolded and the ominous twists and turns the tragedy took. Their eldest daughter turned up (she's a teacher at Namche with perfect English) and we chatted away for hours.</div>
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Another departure and another Kharta brought us to where we are now. Poised at 4,350m below a 5,350m pass which will give us access to the Gokyo Valley where, all being well, we will meet up with the 2 trekkers we last saw in Khumjung.</div>
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Post script:</div>
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We went up and over the Renjo La and the conditions were perfect. An early start meant that the mud and, higher up, snow were crisp and easy going underfoot. The view from the pass was absolutely fantastic and we dropped down to Gokyo in time for lunch.</div>
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John & Loraine arrived mid afternoon from Machermo so we were all reunited and caught up on each other's gossip. The WiFi wasn't working, hence not sending the update as planned.</div>
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Today John (aka my Dad) dropped down to Machermo to break the journey to Phortse which we will be making tomorrow. All the others went to various altitudes on Gokyo Ri and I mooched off to do a panorama.</div>
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The WiFi has just come on and naturally enough is pretty slow because everyone, myself included, has started catching up with the outside world.</div>
Tim Mosedalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05731203299993144363noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2460622843914317671.post-23132355630012158752015-03-23T14:05:00.000-07:002015-03-25T05:37:49.659-07:00What does it take to summit Everest? Here are 7 attribute to consider.Elsewhere I have covered the reasons why people fail on Everest but this article is about what you need to consider to even contemplate attempting it.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKEANTVfS64RIaO9ID3hgJLVCTQDv-vmZqH_8prLB3T_Sb2Fcb13TNIH2tIAnperK4snb45xkKtP4uNB8Mc6VNv4K5rQ6YjZYYJ7TlEwKEoQZVMF8Lx5Ke1C0iLBE_M6mCcVcfotEzKCs/s1600/Everest+northside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKEANTVfS64RIaO9ID3hgJLVCTQDv-vmZqH_8prLB3T_Sb2Fcb13TNIH2tIAnperK4snb45xkKtP4uNB8Mc6VNv4K5rQ6YjZYYJ7TlEwKEoQZVMF8Lx5Ke1C0iLBE_M6mCcVcfotEzKCs/s1600/Everest+northside.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Everest from The North.</td></tr>
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There are seven keys elements that people require no matter which side of the mountain they are on, no matter which expedition they are with. These attributes have nothing to do with how much the expedition has cost, whether you are rich or poor, male or female. Altitude is the invisible enemy and it doesn't differentiate.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbdwWjVvz8p1rnoPEe64zRi-dQw_rnpHWsfpqzfl2YqZOLCD8sf8Cb6Z7YOS2cE_p0GfequHX4qF9YNmGjdb34e569MN13NnwyCfPu-XGelS2kv26WaJm_du8JoAcGLJzAnwmKcW8rB1Q/s1600/Everest+south.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbdwWjVvz8p1rnoPEe64zRi-dQw_rnpHWsfpqzfl2YqZOLCD8sf8Cb6Z7YOS2cE_p0GfequHX4qF9YNmGjdb34e569MN13NnwyCfPu-XGelS2kv26WaJm_du8JoAcGLJzAnwmKcW8rB1Q/s1600/Everest+south.jpg" height="262" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Everest from The South.</td></tr>
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So ... other than oxygen, Climbing Sherpas, a Base Camp cook crew, faultless logistics, the ability to get 8 weeks off work, the tricky issue of having sufficient budget to be able to afford it, the support of friends and family, the right amount of fitness etc etc what exactly do you need to be able to climb Everest :<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">1. 'The Desire' </span><br />
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There is little point, if any, in attempting Everest unless you really, really want to do it. This should not be a whim of the moment decision. It's not back of a fag packet type stuff*. It's also not something that is on everybody's bucket list and you don't necessarily have to justify to anyone, except yourself, why you want to do it. You may not be able to vocalise how you feel about it. It may well just be something that, for whatever reason, 'flicks your switch'.<br />
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But if you don't have that yearning to attempt Everest then there is little point in setting out on it in the first place.<br />
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However ... are you being realistic?<br />
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* Warning - smoking kills and is extremely bad for your health. Please do not take this an endorsement to start, or continue, smoking. Alternatively you could jot your idea down on the back of a beer mat**.<br />
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** Please note that drinking, even in moderation, can also be bad for your health. Perhaps best to just use a note book after all.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">2. 'Realistic ambition' </span><br />
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It's all very well having the desire but is it realistic for you to be undertaking this massive challenge? Do you have what it takes? Should you perhaps be making it a 5 year plan to enable you to get the necessary pre requisite experience and enough time to save the money? Should you maybe have a think about it rather than making a knee jerk reaction having been inspired by a book that you have just read, a film you've just watched or a slide show you have just attended?<br />
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Having the desire is all very well but there are many things that we desire in life that we know won't happen ... unless we do something about it. And even then it may well be that the desire is completely unrealistic and even if you do try and do something about it it may well not transpire.<br />
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Don't believe the public keynote speaker who uttered the 'if you put your mind to it you can do anything' line - that is utter rubbish. Have you ever noticed that this is a classic line that is banded around by people who have just done something? Yes you need to put your mind to it but don't assume that you will achieve your ambition just because you want to have a go. You can't just do anything that pops in to your head ... or we would all be able to fly, see through walls, run a sub 3 marathon or teleport.<br />
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So perhaps you need to park the idea?<br />
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Or conversely you need to focus your energy in to getting prepared ... as long as it is something that is actually realistic and potentially achievable.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">3. 'Experience and a high quality mountaineering resumé' </span><br />
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Preferably years and years of it. If you are naturally tuned in to the outdoor recreation environment due to the frequency, quantity and quality of your experiences then life on Everest will be a lot easier for you to tolerate. You shouldn't have to think about whether your hood should be up or down, whether you are too hot or too cold, when to drink, where your gloves are or how the toggles work on your jacket. You should be able to anticipate environmental changes in advance rather than having to deal with them at the time. Preempting the fact that the sun is coming up, and in a quarter of an hour it's going to be quite hot, has got to be better when you are stood in a safe place ... rather than finding that you are boiling hot and needing to shed layers in a dangerous place fifteen minutes later. See the list of skills required elsewhere.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJOOYMp7mVnjnWT0W3dcDYOvUb3fxUwmqo-1t2Myt1A0FoA65vsvtVsgf8Cx8W5xkkGAPTXfnoA0-BNb-qLuQfhNHmx3fZ-NnJUAi8e3YJ4kQgLY3i4GZDRuaWhFGxfnOGBt7YKGiLDl4/s1600/IMG_2558.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJOOYMp7mVnjnWT0W3dcDYOvUb3fxUwmqo-1t2Myt1A0FoA65vsvtVsgf8Cx8W5xkkGAPTXfnoA0-BNb-qLuQfhNHmx3fZ-NnJUAi8e3YJ4kQgLY3i4GZDRuaWhFGxfnOGBt7YKGiLDl4/s1600/IMG_2558.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">With years and years of experience and lots of expeditions under her belt Jen was very much in her element. Here she is approaching The South Summit. Shortly after this photo she stopped to change her oxygen bottle over and apply sunglasses and sun cream. She had gone a few minutes longer than she would normally after the sun comes up to allow her to get past a queue - but that was a sound decision on the day.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">4. 'Technical expertise' </span><br />
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It's all very well having a great resumé but be honest with yourself - are you an independent mountaineer in your own right or have you been guided on every trip and climb you have ever been on? In essence, if you have an extensive mountaineering cv but have solely been guided, this is not too much of a problem as long as you then sign up for a trip that has the correct level of guidance to cater for the shortfall.<br />
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Irrespective of that you still have to ask yourself whether you will ever end up in a situation where you are no longer guided (for whatever reason), high on the mountain and whether the implication of that terrifies you (it should do). Don't bury your head in the sand and say that 'it won't happen to me' because when it does and you are high on the mountain and alone you will feel very helpless and very lonely. It's obviously not ideal but you should be able to cope in this situation.<br />
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Better to have a whole host of skills and a thorough understanding of the natural and ever changing environment, and how to adapt to it, than to be a potential liability to yourself and therefore a potential liability to everyone around you - including people on other expeditions. Knowing instinctively how to change your walking gait from one type of snow to another means that you won't compromise yourself when the conditions underfoot change. Having a sixth sense about the weather, conditions, snow etc will mean that you are far less likely to jeopardise yourself and being tuned in will also make it a far more enjoyable experience as well. Knowing that your helmet should be on your head not your rucksack, knowing your routines and having faultless personal admin will all be very relevant when you are high on the hill.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifntj7Rg1U8eVPkPwWwuweX_shyphenhyphenywklq6RraKR6CwB5dP5U3gdFNqNDqRwP8VkjL1y-v5g1tBIzhC53ofONpAddmeH0fleunmKHgLXOLqTZSFlsktgh0SlBPHtVLw7OrFrhxxhV2HdqJk/s1600/IMG_2445.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifntj7Rg1U8eVPkPwWwuweX_shyphenhyphenywklq6RraKR6CwB5dP5U3gdFNqNDqRwP8VkjL1y-v5g1tBIzhC53ofONpAddmeH0fleunmKHgLXOLqTZSFlsktgh0SlBPHtVLw7OrFrhxxhV2HdqJk/s1600/IMG_2445.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I've said it before and I'll say it again ... this guy should not have been on Everest. Crampons on the wrong feet, a helmet on his rucksack instead of his head and a few useless quick draws on his harness. He didn't even operate his jumar at each rebelay and his Climbing Sherpa had to do it for him. He was a liability to himself ... and to everyone around him.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">5. The ability to Focus ... </span><br />
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on what needs doing and when to do it. This applies to your years of training, your gear purchases, knowing your equipment intimately, your choice of operator and your own personal commitment. You need to focus on each and every aspect, and leave no stone unturned, whether it be research and preparation for the mountain, your fitness and gaining relevant experience prior to the expedition, or focusing on what is relevant at the right moment during the trip.<br />
<br />
It's really important to prioritise and realise that the consequences of your actions, or inactions, may have far reaching consequences. What would be considered to be small issues on lesser peaks become compounded issues on Everest. On lower peaks the fact that you haven't applied or reapplied suncream may have little if any consequence. On Everest, due to the higher elevation and the rarified atmosphere you will frazzle and become sunburnt which is extremely debilitating. In the UK you can perhaps get away without drinking for the whole day (with the intention of topping up when you get home). On Everest you won't be able to get enough fluids to be sufficiently rehydrated if you go in to deficit. A little bit of dehydration on a daily basis will become a massive problem at the end of a 7 or 8 week period and you will be not only debilitated but also much more prone to the effects of high altitude, more susceptible to frostbite and hypothermia as well as having reduced efficiency and depleted brain function.<br />
<br />
Look at your expedition as a long term project. It requires lots of preparation and it needs to be conducted in a manner where you are constantly reevaluating the situation. Do your due diligence not only of the company that you are going to sign up with but of yourself as well.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsOyXQ9cKIavPL_6D6YDPmmuYX7qLmgEqjC50GF8Q5V6KGArcxJExu6yt8L0yS5n1gcKG2O0NPgBKQ2sC5TU9kj2I-eT9ltjlauwzjoY8R5347Y7ocXXzO4lDNVJItx_fZ4_ZlbYr_VHg/s1600/IMG_2470.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsOyXQ9cKIavPL_6D6YDPmmuYX7qLmgEqjC50GF8Q5V6KGArcxJExu6yt8L0yS5n1gcKG2O0NPgBKQ2sC5TU9kj2I-eT9ltjlauwzjoY8R5347Y7ocXXzO4lDNVJItx_fZ4_ZlbYr_VHg/s1600/IMG_2470.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Giles at the top of The Geneva Spur en route to the summit. A few days earlier he had contemplated going home. Thankfully he was able to refocus his energies and turned his feelings of despondency in to drive and determination.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: large;">6. Mental tenacity </span><br />
<br />
You need this by the pound. There will be moments of self doubt. There will be the days when you just don't perform how you hoped. There will be the off days when you should be firing on all cylinders. There will be the days when you are missing your friends and family and questioning this crazy endeavour. And combined with all that ... you will have a headache at some stage, possibly a bout of diarrhoea, your lips may well have cracked because you weren't looking after yourself, you can't sleep properly at night because of sleep apnoea, it's cold and you pee all the time and you will go off your food. Perversely, just when you are burning more energy than you have ever burnt before, you will lose your appetite and won't be able to face a fork full.<br />
<br />
How on earth can you attempt to continue unless you have mental tenacity by the bucket load? However, you must temper your resilience with a deep respect for the environment around you and also listen to the inner you. If it doesn't feel right then that 6th sense of yours may well be worth listening to. If you continue because your are tough and resilient, whilst ignoring the very obvious changes that are happening around you, then your mental tenacity may well get you in to trouble.<br />
<br />
Mental tenacity has to be balanced with a respect for the conditions around you and a certain feeling of vulnerability.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">7. Self belief </span><br />
<br />
This is a slightly different psychological requirement. Being tough and mentally resilient is one thing but you will need to be able to keep on going, despite how awful you feel, in spite of how lonely you might be, no matter how 'out there' and vulnerable you may feel. You have to put all that to one side and put one foot in front of the other ... incredibly slowly ... believing all the way that you have what it takes. Again, as with mental tenacity, your self belief has to be tempered to the surroundings, and any changes that may be occurring, or it may well get you in to a pickle.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaxiUdAYfC-99ZMu0GYn4qKQut-lzUbLsF3TbmYkrwJon6oWE_tej38uDO_TzXjrRusBhRInmlckqIB8oco_tPEc-91_ibzgncpQ1RQWH6aIgEVg4MrUEZuTqT9-FU8SGJdu1l8AVq0Is/s1600/IMG_2594.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaxiUdAYfC-99ZMu0GYn4qKQut-lzUbLsF3TbmYkrwJon6oWE_tej38uDO_TzXjrRusBhRInmlckqIB8oco_tPEc-91_ibzgncpQ1RQWH6aIgEVg4MrUEZuTqT9-FU8SGJdu1l8AVq0Is/s1600/IMG_2594.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Put it all together and you may, just may, get to the summit.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
So there you have it - a variety of key traits that you need to have a chance of being successful on Everest. But remember - just because you have the ambition, the drive, the focus and all the other necessary prerequisites doesn't actually mean that you will achieve your target.<br />
<br />
No matter which expedition you sign up for, no matter how much preparation you have done, no matter how good your Climbing Sherpa is you have to remember that only you can put one foot in front of the other - it can't be done for you.<br />
<br />
Time to get out on the hill.<br />
<br />
(For further related reading have a look at the suggested <a href="http://www.everestexpedition.co.uk/everest_south_col/skills_required.htm" target="_blank">Skills Required</a> and <a href="http://www.everestexpedition.co.uk/everest_south_col/why_people_fail_on_everest.htm" target="_blank">Why People Don't Summit</a>).Tim Mosedalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05731203299993144363noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2460622843914317671.post-43812614831542152052015-03-10T02:10:00.000-07:002015-03-10T03:22:34.743-07:00Proposal for poo bags to be used on Ama Dablam as standard policy (first published Dec 2013 but updated with extra Everest information).This was first published back in December 2013. Given the recent attention that the media has given Everest regarding garbage and poo I thought it relevant to add a little extra information which I have appended.<br />
<br />
Please read, comment, like and share ...<br />
<br />
For my next Ama Dablam expedition I will be issuing everyone with biodegradable poo bags. They don't weigh much but their use will be so beneficial to everyone - not only my team but other teams who are on the mountain as well.<br />
<br />
Presently there is no policy about human waste on Ama Dablam and it is a problem. Not only is it unpleasant but potentially there are health issues. I am sure that someone on some team undoubtedly gets ill every season ... and that then jeopardises their summit bid and the health and well being of the rest of their team.<br />
<br />
It is standard practice on Denali and at Yosemite to bag it up and bag it out and because that is how it is then everyone does it. On Everest, Cho Oyu, Manaslu, Baruntse etc the high camps are on glaciated areas so digging a toilet pit is easy and when it's there then people use it. If it gets full, or unpleasant, then it can be filled in and another one can be dug out.<br />
<br />
But on Ama Dablam the camps are on rocky platforms and toilet pits can't be excavated. And although a team may allocate a 'toilet area' it would be difficult to convey this to other teams and so the result is that people go anywhere they choose. Which means that everyone is living around everyone else's excrement ... which is just plain filthy.<br />
<br />
So I am hoping to shift this from being the accepted norm and hoping that everyone will adopt a cleaner policy of poohing in a bag ... and then discarding it. Unfortunately carrying poo bags off the mountain probably won't work as well as it might on, say, Denali, because the onus may well start to fall on the Climbing Sherpas and it would be utterly degrading for that to be one of their responsibilities on the hill. They already take on the roll of clearing the hill of tents, pots, pans etc as well as bringing down gear that clients have left up there. To ask them to also be bringing down human waste would be totally unacceptable.<br />
<br />
In The Alps no one has a problem with the fact that there might be a long drop at a hut that is sending waste down a rocky face or in to a bergshrund - they accept that that is how it is and the logistics of trying to get soil pipes installed just isn't feasible. Admittedly there are some huts where composting toilets are installed and are working to great effect but they are usually more accessible huts that have a suitable area for such a 21st century approach.<br />
<br />
So my proposal for Ama Dablam is that anyone at Camp 1 or Camp 2 should crap in a biodegradable bag and toss the bag and its contents down the West face. That way all the waste is going in the same place, it will undoubtedly get scattered as it falls down the face and will subsequently rot down to nothing.<br />
<br />
I'd like this proposal to be circulated before I approach the main companies who also take expeditions to Ama Dablam so that I can be speaking on behalf of lots of you rather than just trying to shout in to the wind. I made this proposal after my last expedition at The Ministry of Tourism and quite frankly it fell on deaf ears. I think that they saw it as a difficult policy to implement and to police. But it doesn't need policing if it just becomes the accepted method.<br />
<br />
So please 'like', 'share' and 'comment' so that this becomes de rigueur and the experience for future people on Ama Dablam becomes a cleaner experience.<br />
<br />
<br />
March 2015 update ...<br />
<br />
As ever the news prior to the upcoming Everest season is reaching fever pitch with reports about this, that and the other. There is a great deal of speculation and the journos are having a field day with their factually incorrect and misguided comments.<br />
<br />
But the one thing that has reared it's head in the last week is that of garbage and faeces on Everest.
I could send you a photo that shows the mountain in pristine condition and I could equally change the angle, gather some rubbish and show you how disgracefully polluted it is.<br />
<br />
It isn't.<br />
<br />
Yes there is some rubbish but it is not nearly as bad as the tabloids are making out.<br />
<br />
As for the pooh ... well at Base Camp everyone uses a barrel with a heavy duty bag in it and the bag is removed every few days. On the mountain we generally go in discreet spots away from our and other people's tents (our expedition digs a dedicated loo area at C1 and we use a toilet tent over a small crack in the ice at C2) and quite frankly when you multiply the number of people by the number of trips on the hill to the various camps by the amount that they produce it really only amounts to a few kilos per expedition which will, in reality, very quickly desiccate and / or self compost away.<br />
<br />
Anyway this is just a reminder of the fact that I proposed a poo bag solution for Ama Dablam over a year ago and guess what? That's right ... in 2015 we were the only team to really give it a go (if you'll excuse the pun).<br />
<br />
I spoke with the Ministry of Tourism in December 2013 and voiced my concerns and they were not in the least bit interested. Indeed they actually found it abhorrent to even talk about the subject of human waste.<br />
<br />
So why then have they recently started voicing their concerns? I suspect that it is their way of avoiding the more pressing issues of whether they have decided that permits from Everest 2014 are for individuals or groups and whether they are transferrable so that the client can decide who they go back with.<br />
<br />
It is also yet to be seen whether they will be introducing the security measures that they talked about in 2013 ... that didn't transpire in 2014.<br />
<br />
It's basically 'Smoke and mirrors'. Or as they described in the film Lucky Number Slevin 'The Kansas City Shuffle - when everyone looks right and you go left.'Tim Mosedalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05731203299993144363noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2460622843914317671.post-13732933765641131152015-03-01T11:04:00.000-08:002015-03-01T13:59:11.409-08:00South Col videoJust a quick post to say that I've dropped a 5 min 30 sec video on to YouTube featuring myself and Adam Booth chilling at The South Col.<br />
<br />
We were having a great time and this little feature hopefully gives you an insight in to what it can be like waiting for a summit bid and one of the world's highest camps.<br />
<br />
Not only do you need lots of prior experience, loads of self belief, strong Climbing Sherpas, oodles of oxygen and plenty of emergency high altitude medication but you also need ... chopped ham!<br />
<br />
Have a look at <a href="http://youtu.be/B7ldjZyd8QI">http://youtu.be/B7ldjZyd8QI</a><br />
<br />Tim Mosedalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05731203299993144363noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2460622843914317671.post-55786240869383811592015-02-10T02:52:00.001-08:002015-02-10T02:52:34.459-08:00Ama Dablam 360° panorama - the mountain as you have never seen it before.So here it is ... the latest mountain panorama this time featuring Ama Dablam.<br />
<br />
Unfortunately due to some objective danger at the right end of The Dablam we were unable to get anyone on the summit last season, so the summit panorama will have to wait until next November. But hopefully this panorama, taken at around 5,000m from the ridge above Base Camp, will still give you a good idea about just what an amazing mountain it is and what an incredible setting it is in.<br />
<br />
Have a look at the interactive high resolution <a href="http://www.mountainpanoramas.com/___p/___p.html?panoid=2014_M8" target="_blank">Ama Dablam 360° vista</a>.<br />
<br />
For more of my work there are some <a href="http://www.everestexpedition.co.uk/everest_south_col/mountain_panoramas.htm" target="_blank">360° panoramas</a> on my website.<br />
<br />
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<img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRFaDpOvm1sHfBzYOg_JC05DKOB6WoT03-ABhNhgUrV7Usn9SatTMt9q99ut13IEglCvxHA_dpGgVkWDFQIIdDoWugvNqfdGs8exLc0sd_KuKCryKqANltN_F5XQUC5BvIIJGu4NLGlTo/s1600/ama_dablam_panorama.jpg" height="138" width="400" /></div>
<br />
A big thank you to Thomas Worbs from the <a href="http://www.mountainpanoramas.com/" target="_blank">Mountain Panoramas</a> website for the stitching, and to Gerald Blondy from <a href="http://bushman-panoramic.com/" target="_blank">Bushman Panoramics</a> for the Gobi panoramic head and tripod.<br />
<br />
And don't forget that you can follow the next Everest Expedition on FaceBook (<a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Everest-Expedition/343655569085328?ref=hl" target="_blank">EverestExpedition</a>) and Twitter (<a href="https://twitter.com/timmosedale" target="_blank">@timmosedale</a>) where we will be posting snippets of information and photos along the way.Tim Mosedalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05731203299993144363noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2460622843914317671.post-24026065595277861992015-01-11T11:34:00.001-08:002015-01-11T11:34:30.066-08:00360° interactive panorama from the summit of Island Peak<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #1f497d; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-themecolor: dark2;">Here it is ... the latest of my interactive 360° panoramas. This is from
the summit of Island Peak.<br />
<br />
Taken by me ... using a tripod and panoramic head from <a href="https://www.facebook.com/bushmanpano">Bushman Panoramic</a>... and
stitched by Thomas Worbs of <a href="https://www.facebook.com/mountainpanoramas">Mountainpanoramas</a></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #1f497d; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-themecolor: dark2;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="color: #1f497d; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-themecolor: dark2;">Enjoy!<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.mountainpanoramas.com/___p/___p.html?panoid=2014_M7" target="_blank">http://www.mountainpanoramas.com/___p/___p.html?panoid=2014_M7</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
Tim Mosedalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05731203299993144363noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2460622843914317671.post-4206564516207344312014-12-18T12:42:00.002-08:002014-12-18T12:42:13.947-08:00Interactive mountain panoramas coming to a smartphone in your pocket.Well it's been a while but a) I have been away and b) since getting back I have been ill.<br />
<br />
I'll write an Ama Dablam round up on another occasion but this time I'm just pointing you to a new page on my Everest website where I have compiled all my interactive panoramas. There's a selection of panoramas taken in the Everest region and they are all now available on <a href="http://www.everestexpedition.co.uk/everest_south_col/mountain_panoramas.htm" target="_blank">this page</a>.<br />
<br />
If you view them on a laptop / desktop then you can get them to autorotate, turn the labels on or off and zooooom right in. There is soooo much detail it is quite stunning ... even though I say so myself.
<br />
<br />
On a smartphone or tablet you can either use the touch screen to scroll around or, best of the lot, just point it up, down, left or reght and it will show you what is up, down left or right. Incredible!<br />
<br />
This has been done in conjunction with the maestro of photographic stitching software - Thomas Worbs. He runs his own website at <a href="http://www.mountainpanoramas.com/">www.mountainpanoramas.com</a> and he also has a FaceBook page - <a href="https://www.facebook.com/mountainpanoramas">https://www.facebook.com/mountainpanoramas</a>. In all he has a 1,000+ panoramas and growing. Why not give him a visit and a 'like' and you'll receive notification of any new posts.<br />
<br />
In the meantime I hope that you enjoy the show.
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivE9XEmy8XkzKSHPMoPz0WsCLcoTB-KJGMp3SQeo7a1UVCw1N1yNri9cN6Ahx2cLHvdZun64Da0cFT-kpM33LvPUP7zqJURn6-Vj8QfN7ptmln6YQCl0oJDHRzrsa4wrAZ3vQkqhYq2Uw/s1600/kala_pattar.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivE9XEmy8XkzKSHPMoPz0WsCLcoTB-KJGMp3SQeo7a1UVCw1N1yNri9cN6Ahx2cLHvdZun64Da0cFT-kpM33LvPUP7zqJURn6-Vj8QfN7ptmln6YQCl0oJDHRzrsa4wrAZ3vQkqhYq2Uw/s1600/kala_pattar.png" height="133" width="320" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.mountainpanoramas.com/___p/___p.html?panoid=2014_M3&labels=1" target="_blank">Click here to jump to the Kala Pattar panorama.</a></div>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14.4444446563721px; line-height: 21.466667175293px;"><br /></span>Tim Mosedalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05731203299993144363noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2460622843914317671.post-91153764615105070652014-10-04T16:00:00.000-07:002014-10-04T16:00:48.039-07:00What Everest 2014 may mean for Everest 2015 (and beyond)<div class="MsoPlainText">
<u>Introduction<o:p></o:p></u></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
In the first of this 2 part article I looked at success
rates, fatality rates and the implications of going with the wrong team. In
this article I am now looking at what the 2014 tragedy may mean for the 2015
season.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<u>2014<o:p></o:p></u></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
The tragedy on Everest in 2014 led to the South side
effectively being closed. There was a lot of confusion about whether Climbing
Sherpas were willing to continue working, whether they feared to step foot in
The Khumbu Icefall, or whether they feared that there might be repercussions because
of threats from the militant Sherpas who were holding the government, the
Westerners, and therefore the mountain, to ransom.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
This article is not about the tragedy, the cause or the
aftermath; it is not about the morality of having Climbing Sherpas working for
teams on Everest; and it is not about the working relationship between
companies, their staff and their 'rich' Western clients (although I do touch on
this briefly). This is about the implications for the forthcoming season(s) on
Everest and what the future might hold for an entire community who are so
reliant on trekking and expeditions as their major source of income.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<u>The differences between S & N<o:p></o:p></u></div>
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<br /></div>
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There are two main sides to Everest for aspiring clients
who want to climb to its summit. There is the South (Nepalese) side of the
mountain and the North (Tibetan) side. Amongst a lot of the big companies the
South has been long been favoured due to a number of factors – <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="margin-left: 36.0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->it is easier to descend from Base Camp (5,250m)
to lower elevations (4,400m and lower) for periods of rest whilst waiting for
the weather;<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="margin-left: 36.0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->it is warmer than the North side. There isn’t
that much temperature difference at night as they are both chilly places to be,
but by day Camp 2 (South side) and ABC (North side) whilst both being at 6,400m
are drastically different - at C2 (S) you can be in a <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="margin-left: 36.0pt;">
t-shirt during the day whereas
at ABC (N) you may well be eating lunch whilst shivering away in your down
jacket;<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="margin-left: 36.0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->the respective camps on the mountain are
situated at lower elevations (Camp 1 - 6,000m (S) vs 7,100m (N), C2 - 6,400m vs
7,500m, C3 - 7,100m vs 7,900m and Top Camp 7,950m vs 8,300m);<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="margin-left: 36.0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->it is not without its tricky sections but on The
South side there is less technical terrain and less objective danger on summit
day;<o:p></o:p></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->despite there being a higher elevation gain on
summit day from the South it is easier to descend back down to the comparative
safety of The South Col and lower elevations – this is particularly relevant if
there is a rescue scenario;<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="margin-left: 36.0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->and lastly there is the possibility of
helicopter evacuation of a sick or injured climber / Sherpa out of The Western
Cwm to Kathmandu.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
The North side Base Camp is typically reached by jeep,
which makes it harder to acclimatise to the rarefied atmosphere, but it also
means that it is cheaper to supply logistically (tonnes of food can be brought
in by truck instead of employing teams of porters to carry loads from the
airfield at Lukla to the Nepalese Base Camp which is a 10 to 12 day round
trip). To that end the North side has the advantage of being cheaper (partly
because of the cheaper climbing permit and partly because of the cheaper
logistics) and the North side doesn't have the objective danger posed by the,
now infamous, Khumbu Icefall in which 16 Climbing Sherpas lost their lives on
18th April 2014. Being cheaper does have its drawbacks though as you tend to
get some people there who are going purely based on price rather than having done
their research and due diligence.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<u>Credit notes <o:p></o:p></u></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Despite assurances from the Ministry of Tourism that
expedition permits would be carried forward and be valid for 5 years it would
appear that only the permit, <i>and not the
individual places</i>, will actually be credited against expeditions in the
near future. (This is still subject to clarification but it would seem to be
the case).<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
By playing with words the Ministry of Tourism have
managed to wangle their way out of a commitment that everyone believed was in
place as they departed Base Camp empty handed at the end of last season. This
emergency measure was put in place to appease the expedition members, leaders,
Sirdars and Climbing Sherpas and was supposed to go some way towards smoothing
things over. The fact that things had already gotten well out of control due to
their inaction in the first place is another matter – but suffice to say that a
letter was produced showing a commitment to carry forward the permits for the
next 5 years.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Understandably there were those of us who were sceptical
at the time but carrying on had become an untenable situation.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
The fact that a lady summited the mountain with
helicopter support up to C2 and evacuation back again from The Western Cwm does
not mean that the mountain had always been open – which is what the MoT are
trying to say as a justification for why they have changed their tune.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<u>Anger all round<o:p></o:p></u></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
The Sherpas were representing their concerns to the
government regarding, amongst other things, insurance payouts and the future
welfare of the families that are left behind. Meanwhile the Western companies
were representing their concerns to the Ministry of Tourism to try and make
sure that they (The Climbing Sherpas) don’t die in the first place.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Due to the dynamic nature of the Khumbu Icefall it is
almost impossible to create a health and safety document or do an in depth risk
assessment, but that is what we are endeavouring to put forward. We are looking
at better protocols for fixing ropes and ladders as well as better training for
the Icefall Doctors and Climbing Sherpas alike. The use of helicopters is being
proposed for taking essential freight to C2 at the beginning of the season to
minimise the loads that need to be carried, and therefore reduce the journeys
that are made through the Khumbu Icefall. And we are looking to be allowed to
store freight at Camp 2 between seasons – again to minimise the journeys that
have to be made through the icefall at the beginning and end of each season.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Perversely the Sherpas are concerned that these last two
measures will mean less work for them and therefore less pay.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<u>International opinion<o:p></o:p></u></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Obviously there were the angry voices out there (mainly
non-mountaineers and office or couch bound self-proclaimed aficionados on all
matters relating to Everest) who claimed that the fallout had been a long time
coming and that this was payback time for the years of abuse and lack of
respect that we had given our Climbing Sherpas. This is simply not true and,
indeed, anyone who has trekked or been on expedition with the Climbing Sherpas
will have come away with a profound respect for them and have been humbled in
their presence. Many people are so taken with the whole life changing
experience that they sponsor Sherpa children through boarding school or stay
connected with their Sherpas for life.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
And then there was the matter of wealth and fatness that
was brought in to the fray. How anyone decides to spend their well earned ££s
is entirely their business. Please don’t cycle in to work on your £3.5k+
roadbike and preach from your £2k+ MacBook Pro 15" with Retina Display
about how anyone else can spend their money. And as far as clients being fat /
unfit / technically inept … well admittedly there will always be those there
who shouldn’t be there (why were they accepted by their company?) but generally
speaking most clients on Everest have been not only saving for years but also training
for years and have many expeditions under their collective harnesses.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
By all means remind me of the David Sharp (North side, solo,
no Sherpa, no radio, Asian Trekking client) and Shriya Shah-Klorfine (South
side, very little oxygen, inexperienced, poor Sherpa support, Utmost Adventure
client) type clients and I will hand you a list as long as your arm of people
who summited in great style who were experienced climbers and approached the
mountain with due caution and due diligence.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
And in a sense I will also agree with you about the
Sharp’s and Shriya’s of the world – they should not have been there; or should
have been trained and mentored and looked after better; or perhaps advised to
either not come at all; or perhaps come in a few years’ time. But they are a
fact of life that gives Everest a really bad name.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<u>Piano lessons<o:p></o:p></u></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Anyone in their right mind who wanted to do anything
remotely risky would probably get themselves trained to the appropriate level.
A person who wanted to do freefall parachute jumps would probably start with
static line, progress to tandem and then on to freefall. A wannabe scuba diver
would do a PADI* course and build up their log book experience before
committing to a complex wreck dive at 45m. Indeed even with less risky
activities lessons and experience count for a lot – from driving a car to
riding a horse, from learning the piano to flying a plane. Mountain biking,
rock climbing, kayaking, being a doctor, speaking a foreign language – years of
experience is the key.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
(*it should be pointed out that other branded courses are
also available).<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
So why is it that there is a perception that you can just
turn up and have a go on Everest? The fact that some chap, who was apparently a
non-climber, did it one year doesn’t mean that other non-climbers can do it in
the future. Maybe he had actually done more training than he admitted to. Perhaps
he was naturally predisposed to being good at altitude. Maybe he was with a
very good outfit and had plenty of oxygen and lots of support. Maybe the
weather was great or, indeed, perhaps he was just plain lucky. But whatever you
do don’t then assume that you can sign up with a crap company, with little or
no experience, with little or no oxygen and attempt to get to the summit –
because you can’t do that without endangering your life and the lives of
everyone around you. And that includes endangering people from other teams (because
of your suspect practices and lack of competence) or endangering the lives of
the Climbing Sherpas who may well be coming to try and help you down.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Any skills that are required to attempt Everest should be
part of your muscle memory and, in a sense, shouldn’t require much in the way
of thought processes. Adapting to the ever changing weather, environment and
conditions should come naturally from years and years of experience on other
hills and mountains.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<u>Next season.<o:p></o:p></u></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
So let’s look in to the crystal ball and see what is
going to happen next season. It’s obviously impossible because of the variables
to be clear and concise about what will and what won’t happen; what will be in
place and whether it will make a difference; how the conditions on the mountain
will affect the general situation etc etc.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Some future clients will be concerned that there may be a
repeat closure on the South side and that no refunds will be given. So what
does the future hold for Everest?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
As mentioned earlier it would appear that when a permit
is cashed in then it is cashed in and individual places will not then be
carried forward. Some of the 2014 clients will undoubtedly not come back -
their time was 2014 and they have had their chance to climb (or not as the case
may be) and have gone home empty handed, never to return. The majority, I
suspect, will see Everest as unfinished business and will be back in the
future. Whether 2015 will be an option partly depends on whether their team
permit is being cashed in and their ability to justify the expense (and get
time off work) so soon - as well as the gamble and hope that the next season
won't be interrupted.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
If it is the case that when a permit is cashed in then it’s
cashed in then maybe some 2014 clients will feel impelled to try again in 2015
because they don’t want to lose out on the US$10,000 credit note. Others, who
cannot raise the funds that quickly, are going to have to accept that they will
have to start all over again.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Suffice to say that there are a few scenarios that can be
mooted. Presuming that people will not be put off all together I foresee, in no
particular order, the following permutations:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<u>Busier North side, roughly the same numbers, or
quieter, for the South side.</u><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Due to the problems with the mountain closure in 2014
there may well be a migration of clients to The North who would otherwise have
gone South. Their time is 2015 and they have everything lined up for that
season and for whatever reason(s) would not want to delay another year – but
they may hedge their bets by going North to avoid the scandalous situation that
occurred in 2014.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
To that end there may be hugely reduced numbers for the
South (some going North – some not coming in 2015 as they had originally hoped)
being joined by a number of people who were there this year cashing in their
peak permit credit note.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Result – Bearing in mind that the North side summit day
is so much more hazardous than the South summit day there will inevitably be
far more deaths on the North side as a result of increased numbers.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<u>Busier North side and busier South side</u> <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Again there may be a migration of some potential Southerners
to the North side as well as a lot of people from 2014 returning for unfinished
business on the South side. Depending on who goes where it may well be the case
that both North and South will be busier as a result.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Result - more deaths on both sides (more so North) but
potentially record numbers summiting as well. Expect long queues … depending on
weather windows. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<u>Same, same</u><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Some people put off all together.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Some migration Northwards.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Some repeats coming back.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Result - a standard season (although, again, possibly a
bit busier on the North side).<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<u>Busier North, another interrupted season on The South</u><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Again there may be a migration of some potential
Southerners to the North side as well as an interrupted season on The South.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
The militant faction of Climbing Sherpas (who,
incidentally, were from outside The Khumbu) may try and stir things up again.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
This would be financial suicide for the South side
because the 2016 season, and beyond, will dry up as a result. The Khumbu is hugely
dependent not only on the seasonal trekkers but also the expeditions for April
and May (as well as the Oct / Nov season – but teams don’t tend to do Everest post
monsoon).<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
The Khumbu community have never really been politicised
because there’s always been a steady flow of income from trekkers and
expeditions and as a result have never had any Maoist tendencies. But when they
were listening to the politically motivated shop steward types, and cheering
for them, they were in effect voting for these people to be their (self-appointed)
spokesmen. They (The Khumbu Climbing Sherpas) are probably regretting that decision
ever since because they have kids in boarding schools in Kathmandu, they have
loans on teahouses, they have bills to pay and they didn’t get their full pay
for the season and they didn’t get their summit bonuses.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<u>Business is business and it’s open as usual.<o:p></o:p></u></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Whilst trekking out this year it was patently obvious
that most of the lodge owners (many of whom have previously summited Everest)
were very concerned about the repercussions for future seasons in The Khumbu. Unlike
the militant Sherpas who stirred the whole crazy mess up in the first place
they are businessmen and businesswomen who understand their demographic.
Without trekkers and mountaineers there will be insufficient funds coming in to
the region to support the various strings of the local economy. The region is
already over-subscribed with teahouses and, as mentioned already, many Sherpas
have children who are at boarding schools in Kathmandu. The local economy has
been rocked by the early departure of teams this year and if it happens again
the consequences will be very far reaching.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
I expect that, having only received 1/2 to 2/3 of their
regular pay, a lot of families will now be wondering ‘now what?’<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Never mind the US$3 million or so that the Ministry of
Tourism collects in peak permits - that is nothing compared to the in excess of
US$12 million that pours in to the region during the Spring season as a result
of trekkers and Everest expeditions. Even the porters from outside the region
are spending almost half of their daily pay to live in The Khumbu. This is
basic economics and everyone will suffer if there is a problem – from the
vegetable seller in Namche Bazaar to the teahouse owner in Dingboche, from the
person who sells NCell mobile top up cards to the bakery owner in Pangboche they
are all hoping for a trouble free season.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
To that end I think it is very unlikely that the 2015
season will be interrupted and, if it is, then I imagine that the course of
events will not result in closure as happened this season.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Watch this space.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
See also:</div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<a href="http://keswick-bed-and-breakfast.blogspot.co.uk/2014/09/fatalities-on-everest-comparison-of.html" target="_blank">Fatalities on Everest - a comparison of some facts and figure</a></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
as well as:</div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<a href="http://keswick-bed-and-breakfast.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/am-i-being-too-hard-on-this-chap-who.html" target="_blank">Am I being too hard on this chap who wants to climb Everest?</a></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br />
<a href="http://keswick-bed-and-breakfast.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/its-only-rich-man-that-buys-cheap-suit.html" target="_blank">It's only a rich man that buys a cheap suit.</a></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br />
<a href="http://keswick-bed-and-breakfast.blogspot.co.uk/2012/12/pitfalls-to-avoid-and-why-people-dont.html" target="_blank">Pitfalls to avoid and why people don't summit Mt Everest.</a></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
And lastly, for more information about what skills are required then have a look at this <a href="http://www.everestexpedition.co.uk/everest_south_col/skills_required.htm" target="_blank">page of suggestions</a> as well as some notes on <a href="http://www.everestexpedition.co.uk/everest_south_col/fixed_ropes_on_everest.htm" target="_blank">how to use jumars on fixed ropes</a>. </div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<br />
<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
Tim Mosedalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05731203299993144363noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2460622843914317671.post-8584152025092279722014-09-21T11:16:00.001-07:002014-09-21T11:16:32.337-07:00Fatalities on Everest - a comparison of some facts and figures<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHhwnWyjH_cYiCSxo8BhEhecTx-uIWcb2wYMqjM3TupvE29BWWveoMH9Ye1wmm8uEBa0LAnNZHIgX8gsZaIrF05rsD-RnyESRpft7t1ljW5f7ouyOWXaCSap2fGB7bV64TVVsMkTL7A14/s1600/Everest+northside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHhwnWyjH_cYiCSxo8BhEhecTx-uIWcb2wYMqjM3TupvE29BWWveoMH9Ye1wmm8uEBa0LAnNZHIgX8gsZaIrF05rsD-RnyESRpft7t1ljW5f7ouyOWXaCSap2fGB7bV64TVVsMkTL7A14/s1600/Everest+northside.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Everest North side.<br />The top camp is at 8,300m and summit day involves a long period of time well above 8,500m.<br />Any problems encountered on the summit day ridge involve retracing technical terrain at ultra high altitude.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzBM7FtP_r43BCk2GrBnGzyktyvtE1RsBkdA2hkiaq5BXKEk_H0xZZKvQzM4rBn74U4bYzo4AcjKdtvrXOuBBWd8jV16AMqR90ZKnWQfecePZq4iXCulYPdl0o9eHPW3_VCVIbdzuGLts/s1600/Everest+south.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzBM7FtP_r43BCk2GrBnGzyktyvtE1RsBkdA2hkiaq5BXKEk_H0xZZKvQzM4rBn74U4bYzo4AcjKdtvrXOuBBWd8jV16AMqR90ZKnWQfecePZq4iXCulYPdl0o9eHPW3_VCVIbdzuGLts/s1600/Everest+south.jpg" height="210" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Everest South side.<br />The South Col (just left of centre) is slightly below 8,000m and whilst summit day involves more ascent than on the North side it is easier to descend to lower elevations and rescue is a distinct possibility.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
In the first of a 2 part series about Everest I am initially
looking at the success rates, fatality rates (and possible reasons behind them) and the
implications of going with the wrong expedition company.<br />
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
The follow on from this will be looking at what happened
last season and how it may affect the next.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<u>Rogue groups and individuals<o:p></o:p></u></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Whilst it would be very tempting to strip out the cowboy
operators, rogue groups and dodgy individuals from the statistics it would paint
a skewed picture. The cheap operators with their dubious clients and debatable
practices appear on both sides of the mountain - although more so on the North.
They are there and it is a fact of life. To eliminate them from the statistical
comparison would not eliminate them from being there and, in turn, being a
hazard to everyone around them.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<u>The Khumbu Icefall<o:p></o:p></u></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
In actual fact prior to the 2014 tragedy the Khumbu Icefall
hadn't been the demise of the huge numbers of climbers and Sherpas that it had
the reputation of. In the last 30 years it accounted for 3 Sherpa fatalities
when a section collapsed in 2006 - and apart from that has accounted for a
handful more fatalities where people (Sherpa and Westerners) have fallen in to
crevasses usually as a result of not being clipped in to the ropes that are
there for safety purposes.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<u>Where people die<o:p></o:p></u></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
In the great scheme of things Climbing Sherpas tend to die
lower down on Everest whereas clients tend to die higher up. The figures aren't
quite cut and dried but can be roughly separated in to mistakes, avalanche and
mishap lower down the mountain as opposed to lack of oxygen, exhaustion and AMS
higher up.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
The data refers to AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) as
being one of the causes of death. I have made an assumption that in actual fact
AMS is more likely to be HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Oedema) and / or HAPE (High
Altitude Pulmonary Oedema). AMS is usually (but not always) a precursor to HACE
and is often (but not always) a precursor to HAPE. HACE and HAPE can occur out of the
blue, with no previous indications, although this is unusual because, generally speaking, critically ill people have usually displayed previous signs and symptoms (typically
of advanced AMS). Where someone has HACE I would generally assume that they may
well be susceptible to HAPE and vice versa.</div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Arguably lack of oxygen may be the root cause of HACE, and
perhaps HAPE is the reason behind the cases of exhaustion. It is difficult, given
the conditions, remote setting and lack of proper medical opinion on the day, to
separate these factors out. Either which way being at ultra high altitude
complicates the issue and makes it very difficult to make a diagnostic
analysis. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
On both sides of the mountain summit day accounts for most
of the Western fatalities. When you then compare the two sides of the mountain
the figures show distinctly that people are much more likely to summit on the
South and are much more likely to die on the North.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
I have tried to compare like for like (i.e. The North Col
Route vs The South Col Route) and to that end have not included a handful of
esoteric expeditions like The West Ridge or East Face type expeditions. The
figures for the last 3 decades* up to 2013**show the following:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoTableGrid" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-padding-alt: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-yfti-tbllook: 1184;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 13.9pt; mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-irow: 0;">
<td style="border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 13.9pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 196.8pt;" valign="top" width="262">
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 13.9pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 70.8pt;" valign="top" width="94">
<div align="center" class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
North<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 13.9pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 78.85pt;" valign="top" width="105">
<div align="center" class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
South<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 13.9pt; mso-yfti-irow: 1;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 13.9pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 196.8pt;" valign="top" width="262">
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Total No of members<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.9pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 70.8pt;" valign="top" width="94">
<div align="center" class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
3,944<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.9pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 78.85pt;" valign="top" width="105">
<div align="center" class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
3,796<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 13.9pt; mso-yfti-irow: 2;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 13.9pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 196.8pt;" valign="top" width="262">
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Total No of summits (incl Sherpa)***<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.9pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 70.8pt;" valign="top" width="94">
<div align="center" class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
2,173<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.9pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 78.85pt;" valign="top" width="105">
<div align="center" class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
3,890<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 13.9pt; mso-yfti-irow: 3;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 13.9pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 196.8pt;" valign="top" width="262">
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Total No of member summits<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.9pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 70.8pt;" valign="top" width="94">
<div align="center" class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
1,337<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.9pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 78.85pt;" valign="top" width="105">
<div align="center" class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
1,752<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 13.9pt; mso-yfti-irow: 4;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 13.9pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 196.8pt;" valign="top" width="262">
<div class="MsoPlainText">
%age member success rate<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.9pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 70.8pt;" valign="top" width="94">
<div align="center" class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
33.9%<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.9pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 78.85pt;" valign="top" width="105">
<div align="center" class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
46.2%<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 13.9pt; mso-yfti-irow: 5;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 13.9pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 196.8pt;" valign="top" width="262">
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Total Fatalities<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.9pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 70.8pt;" valign="top" width="94">
<div align="center" class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
62<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.9pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 78.85pt;" valign="top" width="105">
<div align="center" class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
49****<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 13.9pt; mso-yfti-irow: 6;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 13.9pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 196.8pt;" valign="top" width="262">
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Member fatalities<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.9pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 70.8pt;" valign="top" width="94">
<div align="center" class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
57<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.9pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 78.85pt;" valign="top" width="105">
<div align="center" class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
27<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 13.9pt; mso-yfti-irow: 7;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 13.9pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 196.8pt;" valign="top" width="262">
<div class="MsoPlainText">
%age member mortality rate<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.9pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 70.8pt;" valign="top" width="94">
<div align="center" class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
1.44%<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.9pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 78.85pt;" valign="top" width="105">
<div align="center" class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
0.71%<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 14.55pt; mso-yfti-irow: 8; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 14.55pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 196.8pt;" valign="top" width="262">
<div class="MsoPlainText">
No Climbing Sherpa deaths<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 14.55pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 70.8pt;" valign="top" width="94">
<div align="center" class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
5†<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 14.55pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 78.85pt;" valign="top" width="105">
<div align="center" class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
22‡<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
*chosen because this represents the advent of commercial
climbing expeditions<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
** consolidated figures for 2014 were not available for
North side summits<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
*** includes multiple ascents<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
**** does not include the 16 Sherpas who died in 2014<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
† 2 on summit day, 2 from illness, 1 from avalanche<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
‡ 1 on summit day, 8 due to accidents, 7 due to illness, 3
due to avalanche, 3 in The Icefall<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
When you consider that many of the better equipped companies have got a 70% to 90% success rate it means that there are companies out there who have a lowly 0 to 15% success rate.</div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Of the people who have died over the years the split is as follows:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoTableGrid" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-padding-alt: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-yfti-tbllook: 1184;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 15.15pt; mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-irow: 0;">
<td style="border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 15.15pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 118.05pt;" valign="top" width="157">
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 15.15pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 79.75pt;" valign="top" width="106">
<div align="center" class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
North<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 15.15pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 78.1pt;" valign="top" width="104">
<div align="center" class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
South<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 15.15pt; mso-yfti-irow: 1;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 15.15pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 118.05pt;" valign="top" width="157">
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Below summit day<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 15.15pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 79.75pt;" valign="top" width="106">
<div align="center" class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
18<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 15.15pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 78.1pt;" valign="top" width="104">
<div align="center" class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
30<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 15.15pt; mso-yfti-irow: 2;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 15.15pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 118.05pt;" valign="top" width="157">
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Summit day<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 15.15pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 79.75pt;" valign="top" width="106">
<div align="center" class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
44<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 15.15pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 78.1pt;" valign="top" width="104">
<div align="center" class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
19<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 15.85pt; mso-yfti-irow: 3; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 15.85pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 118.05pt;" valign="top" width="157">
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Reached Summit<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 15.85pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 79.75pt;" valign="top" width="106">
<div align="center" class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
35<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 15.85pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 78.1pt;" valign="top" width="104">
<div align="center" class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
17<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
This is very telling in that most people who died on summit
day did so in descent having reached the summit - either later on summit day or at a high Camp whilst descending.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
This then splits down as follows:</div>
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoTableGrid" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; text-align: left;">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 23.95pt; mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-irow: 0;">
<td style="border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 23.95pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.35pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Reason<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 23.95pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.4pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
North<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 23.95pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.4pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
South<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 13.75pt; mso-yfti-irow: 1;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 13.75pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.35pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText">
AMS<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.75pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.4pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
10<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.75pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.4pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
8<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 13.75pt; mso-yfti-irow: 2;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 13.75pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.35pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Exposure / Frostbite<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.75pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.4pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
10<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.75pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.4pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
4<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 13.75pt; mso-yfti-irow: 3;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 13.75pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.35pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Exhaustion<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.75pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.4pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
11<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.75pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.4pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
4<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 13.75pt; mso-yfti-irow: 4;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 13.75pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.35pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Fall<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.75pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.4pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
15<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.75pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.4pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
10<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 13.75pt; mso-yfti-irow: 5;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 13.75pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.35pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Avalanche<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.75pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.4pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
4<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.75pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.4pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
4<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 13.75pt; mso-yfti-irow: 6;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 13.75pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.35pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Disappeared<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.75pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.4pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
4<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.75pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.4pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
0<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 13.75pt; mso-yfti-irow: 7;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 13.75pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.35pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Illness (non AMA)<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.75pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.4pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
5<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.75pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.4pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
10<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 13.75pt; mso-yfti-irow: 8;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 13.75pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.35pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Icefall Collapse<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.75pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.4pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
0<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.75pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.4pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
3<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 13.75pt; mso-yfti-irow: 9;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 13.75pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.35pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Rock / Ice<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.75pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.4pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
0<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.75pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.4pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
1<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 13.75pt; mso-yfti-irow: 10;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 13.75pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.35pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Crevasse<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.75pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.4pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
0<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 13.75pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.4pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
5<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 14.4pt; mso-yfti-irow: 11; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 14.4pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.35pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Unknown<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 14.4pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.4pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
3<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 14.4pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 82.4pt;" valign="top" width="110">
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: center;">
0<o:p></o:p></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="text-align: left;">
It is obviously very difficult to ascertain whether someone
had AMS or actually had HACE or HAPE; whether they were physically exhausted
or, in actual fact, had the onset of HAPE which compromised their breathing and
gave a perception of exhaustion; whether they were frostbitten as a result of a
lack of (or not enough) oxygen; whether they fell on summit day as a result of
bad judgement or due to hypoxia or perhaps frostbite; or disappeared as a result of an error (again
possibly due to hypoxia).</div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Sadly it would appear that a lot of the summit day
fatalities might have been avoidable and that more oxygen and / or high
altitude medication and / or a reliable Climbing Sherpa and / or better summit day
protocols might have made a difference.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
What is certain from the figures, which seem to speak for
themselves, is that the North side summit day is extremely hazardous when
compared with the South side.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
What is also easy to see is the correlation between lack of
oxygen and lack of success – with an estimated success rate of only 1 in 16 of those who
try to summit without oxygen (this is the success rate of those who try without
oxygen and does not indicate that 15 out of 16 without oxygen die trying).<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
When you consider the 1 in 16 success rate is of people <i>who are intentionally trying</i> to summit
without oxygen the rate is actually skewed even lower by the people who <i>thought</i> they were going to get oxygen
when they signed up with their cheap as chips expedition … only to find that in
actual fact oxygen wasn’t included and will cost another US$5,000. Oh, and a
summit Sherpa isn’t included either and that will be another US$5,000. And of
course because the client has signed up with a cheap trip <i>because it was cheap</i>, they don’t have the spare cash to have these
extras that they thought would be included.</div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
And so they don’t summit.</div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Or they
die trying.</div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Unfortunately I can't separate these clients out from the rest of
the people who fail to summit but undoubtedly trying without oxygen, whether
intentionally or not, is going to mean that success is much, much rarer.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeziKNSzNZ3NkX5tU6bJa453iH99mMJro4bTPLhO8l0tLUizkSHkjQw28jC6y8TmZGtcukMXPwo4acCI4wJIE_b4uBRPItL_d5ryfVetwvHVuQqBr9vliPDwbkNn3BF8twfLOUt_05yCc/s1600/Stuart's%2BEverest%2Bphotos%2B004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeziKNSzNZ3NkX5tU6bJa453iH99mMJro4bTPLhO8l0tLUizkSHkjQw28jC6y8TmZGtcukMXPwo4acCI4wJIE_b4uBRPItL_d5ryfVetwvHVuQqBr9vliPDwbkNn3BF8twfLOUt_05yCc/s1600/Stuart's%2BEverest%2Bphotos%2B004.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Everest North side 2005.<br />A group of highly (and I mean highly) experienced mountaineers - with in excess of 150 expeditions between us.<br />Despite the plethora of experience only 3 of us (plus all 4 Climbing Sherpas) summited - a reflection of the difficulty of the North side living conditions and the route.<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<u>The <span style="color: #999999;">grey areas</span> and the <span style="font-size: xx-small;">small print</span>.</u></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
I have done some research in to the data concerning Everest
/ members / Sherpas / companies / summits / fatalities / percentages etc and
quite frankly it is very difficult to get to the bottom of some of it.
Depending on which source you consult depends on the how much information you
can glean. Some companies are very forthcoming with their figures (especially
success rates) whereas others are not quite so frank (particularly regarding
fatalities).<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
Talking of fatalities I have tried to ascertain whether
there is a link between companies (and by inference high and low cost
expeditions) vs success rates vs death rates and guess what? The more
professional (and costly) companies tend to have very good success rates with
very low mortality rates whereas the basement bargain companies have much lower
success rates and much higher fatality rates. This in part might be a
reflection of a number of issues:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="margin-left: 36.0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><!--[endif]-->more expensive companies have better
client / Climbing Sherpa ratios<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="margin-left: 36.0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><!--[endif]-->more expensive companies tend to
provide more oxygen<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="margin-left: 36.0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><!--[endif]-->more expensive companies tend to
provide Western leaders and guides. Not necessarily 1:1 but certainly a Western
led group will probably have better mentoring, better risk assessment and a
better understanding of first aid and high altitude physiology than a group who
have no Western guides or leaders<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="margin-left: 36.0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span>more expensive companies are probably a
bit more choosy in their client acceptance knowing full well that lowering
their success %age and increasing their fatality %age is not good for business,
ergo they have better clients<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="margin-left: 36.0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span>cheaper companies are possibly sought
out by less experienced clients who are unwilling to pay an increased cost but
who are willing to cut corners<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="margin-left: 36.0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span>or perhaps they have been turned down
by the better companies on account of their lack of technical expertise and
experience and have eventually been accepted by the company at the bottom of
the pile<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="margin-left: 36.0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span>cheaper companies are sometimes not as
forthcoming with their inclusions and exclusions as perhaps they ought to be
and the client signs up thinking that they will be getting x, y and z. The reality is that they are only getting x and when they are at Base Camp they
find out that y and z will cost extra.<o:p></o:p></div>
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This latter case is in part down to the client not
conducting their due diligence – they do their research (or not) and decide
that even though people have died on previous expeditions there is the
misguided belief that ‘it won’t happen to me.’ Or perhaps they don’t know what
questions to ask and therefore don’t know whether the answers hold any
substance. But it is also as a result of wooly conditions, vague clauses and
small print and is, in some instances, completely immoral.<o:p></o:p></div>
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As an example if a company claims ‘in 2012 we had 10 clients
and we put 7 people on the summit’ does that imply a 70% success rate? On the
face of it – yes it would appear so. Delve deeper and you find out that whilst
they had 10 clients they actually put 4 clients and 3 Climbing Sherpas on the
summit – a lowly 40% success rate.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Another example might be ‘we have a 1:1 client to Sherpa
ratio.’ Sounds great! But, again, scratch the surface, delve deeper and you
come across a page where it says that a 1:1 <u>summit</u> Sherpa will cost an
additional US$5,000. But I thought you said you had a 1:1 ratio? We do – but
that is the ratio of our Sherpa staff to our clients and not our staffing ratio
whilst we are working on the hill. Some of the ‘Sherpa staff’ are on Base Camp
duties and the ‘Climbing Sherpa’ staff may well be down at C2 whilst you might
be at The South Col – not a 1:1 summit day ratio. Or perhaps you and 4 other
clients may share the services of 1 or 2 Climbing Sherpas on summit day – which
in turn means that there is less oxygen available to all and sundry on summit
day which means that everyone in the group is much more likely to suffer from
frostbite and / or hypothermia and / or HACE and / or exhaustion and / or hypoxia
as a result. The net effect? Fewer people on the summit and more people dying
high on the hill.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Talking of oxygen … I thought that you said it was
available? Indeed it is <i>available</i> …
if you pay a US$5,000 excess. Now a client who has already opted for a cheap
expedition is not going to have an additional US$10,000 for oxygen and a 1:1
summit Sherpa – so they are either not going to summit or they are going to die
trying.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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And who then picks up the pieces? The better equipped and
more professional companies out there who are willing to donate Climbing
Sherpas and oxygen <i>to people from other
teams</i> who have been left high and dry, abandoned on the hill with little or
no oxygen and no Climbing Sherpa(s).<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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As an example this became very evident in 2013 when a
Taiwanese climber was left to his own devices and pretty much
abandoned at Camp 4 on Lhotse. Not only did a Western Guide and a Climbing
Sherpa from our camp start providing assistance through the late afternoon and
evening but a team of Climbing Sherpas was being readied for his evacuation the
very next morning. This team of Sherpas was being assembled from our camp,
Jagged Globe, IMG, Adventure Consultants, HIMEX and Peak Freaks to name but a
few and they were ready to go out in the ultra early hours from Camp 2 to get
to Lhotse Camp 4 to bring him down and get him readied for evacuation by
helicopter. The team that the sick climber was with had a bunch of clients at
The South Col but were unwilling to release any Climbing Sherpas to help out.
His wife appeared in Kathmandu with US$20,000 for his evacuation but sadly he
passed away in the very early hours. If he had paid, perhaps, US$10,000 more in
the first place, and gone with a reputable company, then maybe he wouldn’t have
got in to such an untenable situation in the first place.<o:p></o:p></div>
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I wouldn’t mind but when one of my clients who summited Everest with
me met a couple from the same team who had also reached the summit of Everest she was told
that they had had a 100% success rate!<o:p></o:p></div>
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‘What about the Taiwanese guy?’ asked Ilina.<o:p></o:p></div>
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‘But he was on Lhotse.’<o:p></o:p></div>
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‘What about the Korean chap who died at The South Col?’ she
asked.<o:p></o:p></div>
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‘Ah, but he was trying without oxygen,’ came the reply.<o:p></o:p></div>
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‘What about the Nepali actor who turned around on summit day
and lost a few fingers due to frostbite?’<o:p></o:p></div>
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‘Oh, we didn’t hear about him … but apart from that we had a
100% success rate.’<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Yeah right.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_r5xxwouqLlsQJ7PaW7-UD52HHyWKBM6y5Ufw5rsYjOGxb4cwJ9EfQqc7a8Ip4ig3wW2IDZr9WvANwEHTqA10koBJJ3py0WcMv464_g8x9qzKu-ZzrSnVrnB30AScXlH5ciZNS9A2FQU/s1600/IMG_2445.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_r5xxwouqLlsQJ7PaW7-UD52HHyWKBM6y5Ufw5rsYjOGxb4cwJ9EfQqc7a8Ip4ig3wW2IDZr9WvANwEHTqA10koBJJ3py0WcMv464_g8x9qzKu-ZzrSnVrnB30AScXlH5ciZNS9A2FQU/s1600/IMG_2445.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crampons on the wrong feet, quickdraws on his harness, a helmet on his rucksack and a Climbing Sherpa negotiating every rebelay for him. Why was this guy on Everest in the first place, who accepted him as part of their expedition and why wasn't he being mentored by a Western leader?<br />He was with a cheap outfit who probably just wanted to make up the numbers but, by inference, he was a liability to himself and therefore a liability to everyone around him.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<u>All deaths on Everest are tragic … particularly the
avoidable ones.<o:p></o:p></u></div>
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<br /></div>
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Any death on Everest is an absolute tragedy. There will be
some people who succumb because of, say, a heart attack which if it hadn’t
happened during the expedition would have maybe happened back home in a few
months anyway.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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There will always be the very unfortunate incident where a
loose rock or block of ice just happens to hit the unwary Sherpa or climber.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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But the deaths that are because of not clipping in to the
ropes and falling off a ladder, or sliding down the Lhotse Face are, sadly,
avoidable and shouldn't happen (and perhaps one could say that they only had
themselves to blame).<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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The terrible incident this Spring should not have been on
the magnitude that it was. As a result of a ladder breaking there were too many
Climbing Sherpas congregated in one place for too long. In this instance I am
definitely not saying that they only have themselves to blame because there was
a sense of expectation and pressure that the Climbing Sherpas were under and to
leave a load and descend back to BC is a difficult thing to do. Some of our
Climbing Sherpas did just that and it saved their lives. But others will have
had self imposed pressure about performing / getting the logistics in place /
earning money and may well have compromised themselves as a result. This was
certainly an isolated incident but one of such magnitude that it will
undoubtedly be in the forefront of everyone’s minds when they are on the hill
next Spring and for many seasons to come.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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I mentioned earlier about grey areas and small print and
these can also be classed as immoral practices. By that I mean when someone
dies because of a lack of enough (extra / spare) oxygen that <i>they thought</i> they would have, or they die
because there was an insufficient Climbing Sherpa ratio that they were <i>led to believe</i> was being catered for, or
they die because there was a lack of high altitude medication (or indeed no
medication). Sadly, if these things had been available then maybe, just maybe, it would have made a difference. And this not only goes for clients but is equally true of
when a Climbing Sherpa dies as a result of poor logistics, insufficient
supplies or lack of adequate provision.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Indeed all 3 of the above (oxygen, support and medication)
are exactly what a sick or injured climber (Westerner or Climbing Sherpa – it makes
no difference) needs … as soon as possible. Immediate access to lots of Os,
high altitude medication and extra support are critical and <u>will</u> make the difference.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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As an example we (and other teams) have a very strict 1:1
Climbing Sherpa ratio for summit day, we carry oodles of oxygen, every client
has a box of high meds (and everyone knows how to use them), we have a spare
mask and regulator as well as having the whole operation overseen by vhf radio
from Base Camp. Someone in an oxygen rich environment is overseeing the whole
summit day process and monitoring where people are, how much oxygen they have,
how well they are moving, what time they set off etc etc to get a feel for
whether continuing is advisable. This is the approach that gives very good
success rates and it also saves lives.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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But it also means that some unscrupulous people (clients and
operators) seem to assume that they can go along on the cheap knowing full well
that someone will help them out of the do doo. Not only is this completely
immoral but it is unnecessarily risking the lives of other people around them.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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In the next article I will be looking at how the tragedy on
Everest last Spring may affect attitudes
and numbers on Everest next Spring.<o:p></o:p></div>
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See also:</div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="http://keswick-bed-and-breakfast.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/am-i-being-too-hard-on-this-chap-who.html" target="_blank">Am I being too hard on this chap who wants to climb Everest?</a></div>
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<a href="http://keswick-bed-and-breakfast.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/its-only-rich-man-that-buys-cheap-suit.html" target="_blank">It's only a rich man that buys a cheap suit.</a></div>
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<a href="http://keswick-bed-and-breakfast.blogspot.co.uk/2012/12/pitfalls-to-avoid-and-why-people-dont.html" target="_blank">Pitfalls to avoid and why people don't summit Mt Everest.</a></div>
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For more information about what skills are required then have a look at this <a href="http://www.everestexpedition.co.uk/everest_south_col/skills_required.htm" target="_blank">page of suggestions</a> as well as some notes on <a href="http://www.everestexpedition.co.uk/everest_south_col/fixed_ropes_on_everest.htm" target="_blank">how to use jumars on fixed ropes</a>. </div>
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Tim Mosedalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05731203299993144363noreply@blogger.com0