Tim Mosedale & Co on Everest

Am I being too hard on this chap who wants to climb Everest?

2011-12-17T09:46:00.000-08:00

Dear xxxx,

Manythanks for your time earlier this week and I understand where you are coming from withyour interest in going to Everest.

Ona personal note, however, I am concerned about your lack of experience and, as a result of that, would feel uncomfortable about you being with mygroup. I know that you plan on going on a climbing course in January but Ionly recruit people who are already climbers and mountaineers, and have beenfor some time, and are therefore suitably well qualified by experience. It isonly with years of experience that things become second nature.

Iknow that you feel that you may pick up all the skills very quickly but the mountaindemands a lot of respect. If the conditions take a turn for the worse, orif your Climbing Sherpa were to become incapacitated, then you may findyourself on your own and need to be wholly reliant on your own ability to dealwith steep terrain in a potentially very demanding and ever changingenvironment.

I can’t have a situation where more experienced climbers, or myClimbing Sherpas, have their lives, or their summit bid, jeopardised as a result of a very inexperienced member in the group.

Itis an all inclusive trip and is already very competitively priced. Thereare a couple of operators out there who are similarly priced, or slightlycheaper, but generally they don't provide as comprehensive a package. Anyway perhaps they will be open to negotiation - but I’m afraid that Iam not.

Yours sincerely,

Tim Mosedale

So come on folks ... am I being too harsh here? Any thoughts?

The worrying aspect is that 'I'm good in the gym' and 'I can learn skills really quickly' just doesn't cut the mustard with me. I find it worrying that some people are completely naive and feel that they can watch a programme, or read a book, and then 'give it a go.' Everest is too big and too serious to just come along and 'give it a go.' It demands a huge amount of respect and it is this approach that will be the undoing of people every year. And unfortunately that then tarnishes the reputation of Everest and undermines the achievement of the climbers and mountaineers out there who do approach it with the right background and mountaineering pedigree.

'It's been my lifelong ambition for the last 5 years.' Well unless you are only 5 years old then that isn't a lifelong ambition. And why haven't you done something about it in the last 5 years then (which, with a bit of hard work and plenty of time on the hill, would possiby be long enough to get yourself suitably well trained by the way).

I am all for people venturing in to the realms of ultra high altitude mountaineering - personally some of the most rewarding experiences that I have had have been on expeditions with like minded people. But start at the beginning and work your way up. I know that not everyone feels that they have the time, or money, to go on loads and loads of trips and work their way up through the ranks. But even so, don't just dive in with Everest. UK hills, UK rock and UK (Scottish) winter all provide fantastic opportunities to further your skill level and be subjected to some ever changing and demanding conditions (as well as some fantastic memorable days out). If you can get to The Alps and maybe an expedition or two as well then this will be a bonus.

But don't turn up to Everest to 'give it a go' and be surprised when it spanks your arse.

It's only a rich man that buys a cheap suit.

2011-12-13T08:40:00.000-08:00

Now then… please please remember that not all Everest trips are equal. We have anexpression over here that goes something along the lines of ‘If you are goingto compare apples with apples, at least make sure that you start out withapples.’ So, whilst there are some exceedingly expensive trips available, thereare also some that are way too cheap. And you have to ask yourself why they arecheap and what you aren’t getting.

Forinstance, there are deals out there for around US$35,000 to US$38,000 - butwhat people don’t realise is that this price might not include ClimbingSherpas, oxygen, masks, regulators, food and accommodation on the trek in etcetc. Other aspects where teams cut corners are the Base Camp facilities,provisions on the hill, weather forecasting, a Western leader and the qualityof their Climbing Sherpas. How on earth can people spend that amount of moneyhaving not researched what they are, and are not getting, and end up payingthrough the nose for various add ons that potentially increases the final billby another US$10,000?

Theexpensive trips may well be recouping some of their overheads that they incurwith office staff, glossy brochures, networked computers and company cars. Butall this does not count for anything when you are on the hill because thebrochure, networked computers, office staff etc are a complete irrelevance.What counts on the hill are the Base Camp facilities and quality of the food,the logistics, the Climbing Sherpas, the weather forecasting, the provision ofoxygen and the leadership.

So,firstly, I use one of the best agencies in Kathmandu. They are a VERYgood operator and have an extremely proficient team, particularly when itcomes to rescue and evacuation. This is something that we always hope we willnever have to call upon – a bit like having insurance. But, like insurance,when you do have to call upon it you want to know that you are with one of thebest providers.

Kame (left) is one of the best Sirdars on the hill and Bhim is one of the best Base Camp cooks.

Similarly I use one of the bestSirdars on Everest. He is very well respected amongst the Climbing Sherpacommunity, he is held in very high regard amongst Western leaders and his teamof Climbing Sherpas are some of the strongest on the mountain. Just because Climbing Sherpas havesummited Everest numerous times doesn't necessarily make them good at theirjob. Yes they may well be immensely strong on the hill but the Climbing Sherpaswe use are not only strong but they are also attentive to their job and have agreater understanding about client's expectations.

Ample oxygen supplies stocked at The South Col

We are also in the right camp withour supply of oxygen. We don’t just have a limited supply of oxygen and onceyou have used your quota it's gone - we have an ample supply with enough extra tocater for contingencies. With other teams when it’s gone it’s gone (or you haveto buy more) whereas with our team there is a generous allocation to allow forunforeseen eventualities and emergencies. If, say, we got delayed at TheSouth Col because the weather changed then this would not jeopardise our summitattempt. Equally if you were forced back on summit day because of a brokencrampon, or helping out some other team, this too would not jeopardise yoursummit bid. With other teams once you have used your allocation (for whateverreason) then you either have no more gas or you have to spend more money. Again,we hope that there won’t be any emergencies happening … but if there are, thenwe are with the best.

Camping on the Kongma La (5,350m) before ascending Pokalde. Excellent preparation
and acclimatisation for our arrival at Everest Base Camp.

I knowthat most of the cheaper trips (and indeed some of the really expensive one)don’t include things like meals in Kathmandu, or teahouse accommodation costswhen trekking in, or extra snacks and goodies at Base Camp. To that end Iam providing you with more for your money. I know that you might thinkthat these don't amount to much in the great scheme of things but there is alsomy 3 week trekking itinerary to take in to account. This is a great part of thetrip that allows for us to have a massive amount of flexibility and incorporatea few high camps before a few days resting at Dingboche (all paid for ofcourse) and then another high camp (which is higher than Base Camp) as well asa 5,800m peak. This means that when we arrived at Base Camp last Springeveryone was fully acclimatised (not a headache in sight), very fit and healthy(we had avoided all the ill trekkers) and everyone was bonded as a group whichnot only made for a more pleasant experience but also a safer more dynamic teamon the hill.

Once wearrived at Everest Base Camp we went in to the Khumbu Icefall for a half dayforay on the ropes and ladders. The next time we went through was to sleep atC1 and then go on to C2! This is quite unusual as most teams make about 3journeys before being ready to sleep at C1 – which meant that we spent lesstime and energy getting ready for the big event. The next time up high we wentstraight to C2 and had a few days there, incorporating a visit to C3, and thenafter a rest at BC (and some high altitude specific medical training and oxygenprotocol preparation) we were ready for the summit push.

One otherthing I’d mention is the level of support that we provide.

The view from C3 - our Climbing Sherpas will come and collect
you and take you to The South Col the next day.

We haveexcellent logistics on the mountain and there is a lot of help from theClimbing Sherpas. Because of the extra altitude involved on Everest Iadopt a slightly different approach than when on Ama Dablam and have a lot moreassistance from the Sherpas – this makes a big difference not only because ofthe extreme altitude but also because of the longevity of the trip. For instancewe get sleeping bags carried to C1 when we go and camp there and then they arealso carried for us to C2 when we move base to 6,400m. We then leave the bagsat C2 when we drop down to BC, as we don't anticipate using C1 again the nexttime. Having said that, if people get to C1 the second time on the way to C2and decide that they need to stay there again we'd then get sleeping bags sentback down from C2. On the summit phase, bags are carried when we go and sleepat C3 and the Climbing Sherpas then drop back down to C2 for the night. Thenext morning they then reappear to carry bags on up to The South Col. On top ofthat suits and boots are also carried directly to C2.

So as youcan see you are 'merely' concerned with being self sufficient on a daily basis(layers of clothing, suncream, hydration, gloves, glasses, camera etc) ratherthan overdoing it physically and jeopardising yourself for the mainevent. But don't read this and feel that it detracts from the experienceand effort required. Everest is a tremendous challenge and it would betotally false economy for people to feel that they should be paying less andcarrying more - all that happens for most people is that it severely reducestheir chances of success and dramatically increases their chance of becoming aliability to themselves and everyone around them. And therefore a liability tothe rest of the team and perhaps jeopardise the summit bid for their fellowteam members. Then there are the Climbing Sherpas to consider - they are the guyswho will get involved in mounting any kind of rescue bid and we owe it to them,and their families, to go to the mountain with a responsible and pragmaticapproach.

Summit day - above The Balcony.

Ontop of all this I provide a truly 1:1 experience. There are some teams whoquote 1:1 - and whilst that means that they have a Climbing Sherpa for everymember ... it doesn't necessarily mean that they are together on the mountainjust that they are on the hill in different locations!

It's a BIG hill - so make sure you and your Climbing Sherpa
are in the same place at the same time for summit day.

With ourteam you have a Climbing Sherpa assisting to get to C3. You then have a Sherpawith you up to The South Col (we may have set off ahead of them but they'llsoon catch up!). But on summit day your Climbing Sherpa is then glued to yourside. He carries your spare oxygen and stays with you throughout the night andthe day and constantly monitors your flow rate, your O2 reserves, your pace,the time and will keep reminding you to eat and drink. On top of that we alsohave spare oxygen on summit day as well as a spare mask and regulator. YourClimbing Sherpa will then stay with you all the way back down to The South Coland on down to C2 (if you stay at the South Col so will he). After a night atC2 your Climbing Sherpa will also stay with you back to Base Camp and only thenwill he be relieved of his guiding duties.

I believethat this is what 1:1 should mean.

Inaddition to this we all have radios to maintain contact on a daily basis, whichallows for a great degree of flexibility as well as extra safety, and we allcarry high altitude medical kits (and not only that you and the rest of theteam will know what's in there, what it's for and how to use it) as well ashaving a great understanding about AMS, HACE, HAPE, frostbite, hypothermia,oxygen protocols etc. By the time I've finished with you all you'll be with avery, very well trained team!

Safety in numbers. Not only one of the only teams to carry individual high altitude 1st aid kits on the hill ...
but also one of the only teams who knew what was in the kit, what it was for and how to use it.

Onefinal thing to remember is that with some trips you don’t get a Western leaderor even a point of focus. I truly believe that the Climbing Sherpas are awesome… but without direction and focus things can be overlooked or go slightly awry.Without a central focus the logistics can start to fall apart ever so slightly– and this can become a huge, HUGE problem higher on the hill whencontingencies are not accounted for and suddenly there is no safety net. On thenorth side in 2005 a guy on a cheap trip arrived at his team’s top camp to findthat there was no stove, no gas, no pans and no food. He came over and askedfor all of this from us and if we hadn’t been there I don’t know what wouldhave happened. He also didn’t have a lighter and even asked us for extraoxygen. Clearly not only had he not thought it through himself but his team (11people from all sorts of different countries but without a leader) had also notthought about anything other than themselves as individuals.

It could be you!

Onefinal thought ... It’s only a rich man that buys a cheap suit.

Everest - it's pretty big

2011-12-10T13:03:00.001-08:00

Everest on the South (Nepal) side

Not even in my wildest dreams did I ever think that this iswhere it was all potentially leading.

I started out my outdoor career at a centre in Wensleydaleand after 7 years I’d worked up to being Deputy to head of Centre and SeniorInstructor. It was a great job at a small centre - I was out on session a lotbut also responsible for staff training, the off duty, the group programmes,the fleet of vehicles, risk assessment etc. The boss wasn’t going to be movingon and eventually it was time to spread my wings.

When I first arrived in Keswick I had 8 part time jobs –anything to pay the bills. At about the same time I was offered some work inNepal and I jumped at the chance. It had never previously occurred to me thatit was a possibility but I knew that it was an offer I couldn’t refuse. Thisthen led on to me working for KE Adventure Travel who are based in Keswick,where I’d settled after the Yorkshire Dales. I’d sent in my cv and resume andfollowed it up with a phone call a week later. In the midst of being told thatthey were ‘very busy’, ‘lots of leaders already’ and ‘Keswick is a long way tocome for a chat’ I mentioned that we had the same postcode. ‘Oh I’ll get thekettle on then, see you in 5 minutes.’ I was there in 3.

It was great employment and I loved the culture andenvironment as much as the landscape and work. I’d lived in Cambodia for 6months in a previous life and whilst I was there I’d had a quick whistle stoptour of Asia and been hooked. To be back in Asia and working in the mountains wasjust awesome.

I’d often been asked ‘as a mountaineering instructor youmust want to do Everest,’ which I’d never quite understood. Now that I wasworking a lot in The Khumbu I was now getting ‘as an expedition leader you mustwant to do Everest.’ The answer was always an emphatic, and honestly from theheart, ‘no thanks.’ I’d then go on to explain that it’s very cold up there,potentially pretty dangerous, very expensive, loss of income whilst away, potentialloss of digits and life etc etc. And anyway, without the experience I’d neverget employed and I definitely didn’t want to go along as a client – not that Iwanted to go anyway. Not for me thanks. No siree.

And I genuinely meant it too.

My previous life had been as a commissioned officer in TheRoyal Corps of Transport and so I had a bit of an understanding of differenttypes of leadership, motivation, delegation, logistics etc. I’d also been onthe Arctic Warfare Instructors course which was a pretty challenging 8 weeks inNorway (one of only a few military courses where you are officially on double rations).Out of 35 on the course only 5 of us passed. I saw grown men in tears duringthe 8 weeks because of the cold, because of the knarly desperate conditions wewere in (with pretty flimsy gear at times) or from trying to ski wearing planksof wood carrying 80Kg and because, at the end of the course, we then had to skiin to a hole in the frozen fjord and get ourselves out. It was all fairlybrutal stuff really. I hadn’t realised at the time, but it was another pivotal experiencefor me.

All this experience and training came in to play whenever Iwas on an expedition and I found it to be a remarkably fortuitous background –totally alien in many ways to being ‘a civvy,’ but leadership skills and an understandingof logistics are all so transferrable. As are the skills required to look afteryourself, and still lead others, in the worst of conditions, even when you areat your lowest ebb.

Ama Dablam in the heart of The Khumbu

I’d been lucky enough to have a friend in Keswick ask me ifI could put together an Ama Dablam trip and I jumped at the chance. It was agreat trip – just a bunch of mates having a go at a very impressive mountain.No Climbing Sherpas or High Altitude Porters - just a cook crew, some portersto Base Camp and a Sirdar. We had a great laugh and it was then that I foundout that I was also pretty good at altitude.

Having put in all the effort to run that trip, I decided toadvertise and I’ve been going back every year ever since.

It’s amazing that people ask ‘don’t you get bored ofclimbing Ama Dablam every year?’ It’s the most amazing mountain in theheart of some pretty spectacular mountainous terrain where I get to see andwork with Climbing Sherpas who have summited Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Manaslu,and Everest (one chap 18 times) who are now family friends. I’ve been workingwith Kame, my Sirdar, for 9 years now and it’s a privilege to be with themevery time. When I compare that with climbing Snowdon, The Ben or Mont Blanc afew times every season then I realise I have managed to manoeuvre myself in toa very privileged position. Sometimes you have to make your own luck I guess.

The North side of Everest - a very serious place to be

In 2001 I heard about a bunch of mates who were off to havea go at Everest in a few years’ time. The approach was the old style of expeditioning – just abunch of mates on the hill. I was sort of tempted because, although I knew I’dnever have a go at Everest, I also knew that if I did have a go it would be inthat style. However I already had another commitment – my own group on IslandPeak and the 2 overlapped by at least fortnight.

I was back from Ama Dablam (again) at the beginning ofDecember 2004 and I was chatting to Matt Sharman about the forthcoming Everestexpedition and he said he was arriving in Kathmandu on the 19^thApril. My 3-years-in-the-planning-private-Island-Peak-group were departing KTMon the 18^th April! I realised that, whilst the two trips overlappedby a few weeks, that in actual fact it was a possibility after all and this wasone of those once in a lifetime opportunities. I made some hasty phone calls –one in particular to a chap called Baz Roberts.

I’d just been on his Wilderness Medical Training course (veryhighly recommended by the way) and he’d shown us all some Everest video andphotos from his trip with Russell Bryce on the North side that Spring (2004). He hadwanted to go on the hill from the age of 9 or so, and everything had beenleading up to that experience. He’s a very methodical guy and even though Ididn’t really know him at the time I rang and asked him a bunch of questions. Headvised that I ask my friends about our relationship with Russell Bryce (TomRichardson and Ian Wade both knew him), how much oxygen we had (enough), ourBase Camp support (Mick had a friend who was a doctor (another +ve) who hadresearched the 1996 disaster and written a paper on high altitude meteorology(perfect)), what comms did we have (Ross was ex forces and had some friends whowere lending us a VHF set) etc etc.

The guys had been planning this for 3 or 4 years andabsolutely everything was in place. Not only were we the smallest, cheapesttrip on the mountain but also the most experienced. Ian Wade, perhaps the mostprolific of the lot, had summited over 65 6,000m peaks as well as Cho Oyu andGasherbrum II – both without oxygen. Tom Richardson had done more than mostpeople will ever do in their lifetime. Ross, Dan, Mick and Matt were all fulltime, or certainly far more than part time, expedition leaders and StuartHolmes … well very bright light under very large bushel springs to mind.

I was to be in the company of some of the nicest (and most experienced)guys I could ever hope to be with and my wife knew most of them too. So whilst Ali(and I) found out on Boxing Day 2004 that ‘it’s turned blue!’ and I was goingto be a daddy, she still gave me her blessing to go on the trip. I signed up at the end of December and was going away in March. I started eating pies and doughnuts and,despite working every day in Scotland that winter, managed to put on 2½ stone.It’s the hardest training I have ever done.

These guys had invited along (only) 4 Climbing Sherpas whowere their friends – 2 of whom I already knew having worked with thempreviously. So it wasn’t climber and guide or employer / employee – it was a bunchof guys (and their Sherpa friends) on a BIG mountain. It was a low key, lowbudget, but highly professional effort and, considering not a crossed word wassaid for the whole trip, was a roaring success. I went along just thinking thatI’d see how it went. I had no aspirations for the summit (having only been to6,856m previously) and just approached each day as a new day and a newchallenge.

After a while it was obvious that we were all having agreat, fun time and that we were all so much at home in the harsh environmentthat is the North side of Everest and I honestly thought that we would have 6or 7 (if not all 8) out of the 8 westerners on the summit. As it happens thingsconspired against a few of the guys towards the end of the trip and before youknow it there were only 3 of us on the top. But all 4 Climbing Sherpas alsosummited which was superb. Phendan had been on the top before but the others Sherpashadn’t. They had all worked so hard and Zambu, for example, had carried loadsto the top camp 11 times.

Everest summit 30th May 2005

On the North side the top camp is at 8,300m (so 99mhigher than the summit of Cho Oyu) so this is an amazing feat and we couldn’thave done it without them. Thankfully it has opened a door for all of them and they areregularly employed on Everest (or Cho Oyu / Manaslu) and have managed to breakaway from the trekking peak trips that they so often did.

I knew that if I had the chance that I’d love to go back.But I also knew that I wouldn’t go back on the North side. It’s a particularlyserious summit day and if a client got in to difficulty then you may as wellget out your rosary beads. Also it’s the Climbing Sherpas who generally getinvolved with rescues and I didn’t want to have the onus of endangering theirlives, let alone those of any clients, even more so now that I knew them all sowell.

A few Ama Dablam trips and a Cho Oyu trip later and anopportunity arose. I was asked to lead a group to Everest Base Camp for a chapwho would then stay on Everest. I mentioned that I may know of a few people whowould also like to have a go at Everest. ‘You’ve got the job.’ I cherry pickedfrom my database and e mailed 23 people who I thought had not only theaspiration and experience but also the right approach and temperament as wellas the ability to afford it and get time off work. 12 were interested. Thatsoon dropped to 7 or 8 and then the credit crunch happened. We were down to 3so we delayed a year and eventually, in April 2011, myself, a friend of minewho was to be our Base Camp doctor and 5 hopefuls started trekking.

Rather than racing up to EBC, sitting there for a fortnightwith headaches wondering how we would ever climb Everest feeling like this downhere, we trekked for 3 weeks elsewhere. It was a great acclimatisation schedulebut it also allowed everyone to forget about work etc and to relax and enjoythe experience without having the overbearing nature of ‘Everest’ dauntingly inview. Whilst we would never get away from the fact that this was definitely anorganised trip I wanted to try and recreate the style of expedition I’d been onin 2005. To that end I was very conscious of the fun factor and for everyone enjoyeach other’s company.

There was not a headache in sight for the whole trip and wearrived at Base Camp as a team, a unified dynamic group, rather than a bunch ofclients. We were enjoying ourselves, and the environment, and the rapport wasnoticeable. I’ve seen other trips where the clients are so tense (and intense)that it is just no fun at all. Indeed you can see people calculating and tryingto out manoeuvre each other in a dog eat dog slow race for the prized summit.They certainly don’t lift a finger for each other as they definitely don’t wantto risk their own chances.

My team went the extra mile for each other. When we were onthe hill, whoever arrived first at a camp got a brew on and then, after admiringthe view and getting their breath back, started sorting the tent, roll mats,sleeping bags etc for themselves and their tent partner. The sort of thing that comes naturallyto experienced mountaineers who realise that synergy is so important. You don’tcount the cost or take turns – it just happens.

In the mighty Khumbu Icefall

When we first entered The Khumbu Icefall it was quite anemotional experience. Suddenly we were in the steps of the great pioneers. We’dall read the books and it was all so historical and evocative. Everyone uppedthe ante and changed from fun trekking mode to fun expedition mode and it wasnoticeable that everyone just sharpened their senses.

Looking up The Western Cwm with The Lhotse Face in the centre and The Geneva Spur the obvious rocky outcrop just left of centre leading diagonally off to the left and on up to The South Col.

A few forays up and down the hill through the icefall and upThe Western Cwm and we were ready for our summit bid. In the old days folk usedto camp higher and higher on the assumption that they were acclimatising.Nowadays we realise that round about 6,500m is the threshold and beyond therea) you don’t acclimatise and b) you just deteriorate.

The weather was all over the place for a few days and indeedwe arrived and slept at Camp 3 (7,100m) on the way to the summit only to haveto come back down to C2. It wasn’t bad enough for long enough to warrant goingto Base Camp so we stayed at C2 for 5 nights. Then back to C3 and on up to TheSouth Col. Again the wind spiked and we stayed at The South Col for 24 hoursand then set off in to the night. Exciting stuff. The downside, however, wasthat not only had some other teams sat it out as well but others had thenarrived the following day for their summit bid - so there were twice as manypeople as we’d have hoped.

It turned out to be a fantastic moonlit night, but at timesa painfully slow journey. There was a queue pretty much most of the way up toThe Balcony. My feet got pretty cold and were getting colder due toinactivity. I pondered this for the interminable minutes standing still andcouldn’t work out why. I had the same boots as 2005 when it had been colder andwindier. I had smartwool liners and mountain socks, the same as last time. I hadsome foot warm up sachets and I’d checked thast they were working. Yes, we weregoing slowly, but why were my feet this cold? Ponder, ponder.

The only reason I could come up with was that the linersocks were my wife’s and were too tight for me and were constrictingcirculation, albeit ever so slightly. So on arriving at The Balcony, wheneveryone else was changing cylinders or taking on fluids and food, I whipped myboots off, took off my mountain socks and removed my liners. They froze theinstant I’d removed the inner boot and it was paramount that I get my big socksback on and my feet in to my boots before they froze as well.

I’d been rehydrating along the way whilst waiting for folkto move so there was no other reason for me to stop. Within a couple of minutesI’d managed to sort my feet out and was on the move. I over took about 30 to 40people who were still loitering and being tended to by their Climbing Sherpas.The rest of my group had sensibly moved straight through, as we had agreedpreviously in the event of any queues, as they could change cylinders later.

Looking back down to The Balcony and some of the people we'd managed to zip past.

I soon caught up with Jen and Susan who were going fine. Wefragmented slightly around the South Summit, as I’d encouraged everyone to goat their own pace. Yes we were a strong, dynamic, closely bonded group – butnot on summit day. You go for it with your Sherpa and don’t wait for the others– don’t jeopardise yourself. Maybe we’ll meet on the summit, maybe not. Gileshad managed to get ahead of the crowds and summited at just after 5 in themorning and Partha summited at around 7.30. I’d seen them both as they weredescending and they seemed to be suitably chuffed. Smiles and handshakes, abrief chat and then onwards. Ever so slowly. Onwards and upwards.

I summited around 9.15. Jen and Susan and their ClimbingSherpas arrived whilst I was still on the summit – which is hardly surprisingas I spent an hour and a half up there. It was a great day to be on the topagain. Not too cold and no wind. The view was as spectacular as I rememberedalbeit spoilt slightly by the cloud that meant only the very highest peaks werevisible. In 2005 my camera only had the facility to do 30 seconds of video but Imanaged to fit in a 360 panorama and we only stayed for maybe 15 minutes. Thistime I had unlimited video capacity and managed to get a slower morecomprehensive video. I get a lot of comments from folk on YouTube about howgood it is which is a great compliment.

It was a fantastic culmination to a great expedition. Withouta doubt it the best and most exciting work I have done. I enjoyed it so muchthat I’m going back again next year! Watch this space.

On the summit of Everest.

WINNER!

2011-10-10T08:49:00.000-07:00

Well I'm obviously delighted to have had 2 photographs win across the 11 weeks of the photo comp on Adventure Eyes - but I'm double pleased to have been selected to be the overall winner.

Busy getting ready for Ama Dablam in just over 2 weeks - it's all getting a bit manic now but I still have my head above water. Looking forward to seeing my Sirdar and Climbing Sherpas again not to mention my friends in Kathmandu and along the Khumbu Trail. How exciting.

Everest photo.

2011-10-06T09:43:00.000-07:00

Just been sent this photo from Dave Hill (he who I mentioned in my last Blog post about our meeting on the summit). He very kindly popped this across to me - it's on descent from the Summit of Everest with The Hillary Step just in the background.

Cheers Dave.

An exclusive club

2011-09-24T04:27:00.000-07:00

You know how sometimes you meet people and you get chatting and the conversation turns up some vague similarities, or the fact that you live in the same vicinity (county level usually but sometime country or even land mass!) - and you end with 'Yeah, that would be great ... of course I'll pop in next time I am passing your town.'

Well ... on the 20th May this year I was doing a piece to video from the summit of Everest. The guy next to me says 'that's a northern accent ... where are you from?' 'Keswick' says I, 'you from Canada or somewhere?' (for he had that twang). And it turns out that whilst he now lives in Canada (and has done for 20 years) he is originally from Barrow (in Cumbria).

So we chatted idly for a while (like you do on the summit of Everest) and I told him about the B&B and stuff. He then signed off with the not unusually unexpected 'Well... I'm visiting the UK in September and we'll be staying in Windermere so we'll pop by and catch up.' 'Cool, safe journey down and I'll see you again,' I said and I thought nothing more of it. Just another chance meeting with someone and a pleasant chat. Albeit in rather special circumstance.

Well .... how cool is this? Dave Hill (for that is he) rang the doorbell this week and fulfilled his promise. Naturally we stepped straight out and went to The George for a pint with his wife and friends and had a great craic. And what a nice guy.

Totally laid back and genuine but you could also tell that he had worked long and hard to get himself to the level of being on the big mountain. He summited ... and rightly so. In fact he's exactly the sort of person that I think should be there - a competent climber and mountaineer in his own right with an excellent mountaineering pedigree.

So ... Dave (if you are reading this) one day (but I haven't got a clue when) I shall reciprocate and drop in to see you when I'm passing.

And good luck with your plans to go back to Everest and have a go from The North side. It's a totally different undertaking ... but he's the sort of guy that has a great chance of success. And if that is the case you'll be one of the few to have summited from both sides.

It's an exclusive club!

I'd blow my own trumpet ... if I could reach it.

2011-08-24T10:42:00.001-07:00

Recently received some more feedback from the Everest 2011 expedition.

Having been on several expeditions with Tim before, there was really no question of going to Everest with anyone else.

His logistical planning are second to none, and he uses, in my opinion, the best support crew on the mountain. Added to that, his expeditions are always, always brilliant fun, largely due to his undampable upbeat and subversive sense of humour.

The three-week trek into basecamp worked marvellously, with the team getting to know one another, getting to see some amazing places off the well-beaten path from Lukla to BC and basically having a LOT of fun.

All this in the name of arriving at basecamp with a good degree of acclimatization and health (by avoiding the pestilent hoardes), allowing us to go straight on up the mountain instead of kicking around at basecamp getting bored.

On the mountain Tim is super-strong, & the consumate professional, managing things seamlessly to give us all the best chance of summiting, which, apart from one member leaving early on for medical reasons, we all did!

Jen Larsen, Everest Sumiteer, TheBigE 2011

So if you are thinking of going to Everest in 2012, 2013, 2014 ... then why not get in touch and be part of one of the best trips on the hill.

Onwards ...

2011-08-11T13:13:00.001-07:00

Have eventually managed to get the Everest 2011 summit day photos optimized and uploaded. Took longer to do that than to go on the entire expedition.

Having a quieter year at the B&B this season (hardly surprising given the weather we are having)... but Ama Dablam has gone bonkers. Had 16 to look after in one form or another on Ama and 4 for Island Peak and have just taken on another small independent group of 6. So I now have 10 different itineraries to put in place for the various Ama clients and 2 itineraries for Island Peak folk. It's going to be a very busy season with a certain amount of cranial scratching to get my head around it all. But I will.

Just been perusing the interweb comparing dates that other teams may be on Ama (I always do this so I can anticipate if there are going to be any bottle necks or busy days with other groups being around) and unbelievably 2 companies are advertising that they have held their price yet again (some sort of credit crunch buster) - but what they have failed to mention is that whilst the price is the same the inclusions have been reduced!!!! So same price but less service.

Anyway - had a very good meeting today with the marketing manager of a well known UK brand and there's a glimmer of hope on the horizon for TheBigE2012 'Project X.' Watch this space.

In the meantime enjoy the photos from Everest 2011.

Feedback

2011-07-22T03:31:00.000-07:00

If you are thinking of coming along on an expedition of course I would tell you to come with me and that it will be safe, well executed, great fun and an amazing experience. But really you need to hear it from a third party.

So ... I have just received the most amazing feedback from Dr Abi who was on the recent Everest expedition. She came along for the 3 week acclimatisation trek and stayed with us for a further 4 weeks as our Everest Base Camp doctor:-

'I have known Tim for many years and had the privilege of working with him on a couple of expeditions.

I cannot recommend him highly enough in all aspects. He is a highly professional mountaineer and guide in addition to being a very approachable, energetic and personable fellow. He undertakes the organisation and planning of an expedition with the utmost diligence and meticulousness. This excellent preparation makes for a smooth running, well balanced, flexible trip that ensures safety is paramount, both from a mountaineering and medical perspective.

The medical kits on his trips are second to none, and Tim has a broad lay understanding of how to manage acclimatisation and minor medical problems. In this sense, he really stands head and shoulders above other 'non medical' guides.

Tim has a wonderful ability to enthuse and encourage team members even when the task at hand is tough. He provides a highly professional and supportive service throughout a trip tailored to each individual's needs as the expedition evolves, and for the team as a whole.

I have had the opportunity to see how other larger commercial teams function on mountaineering expeditions and Tim's professionalism, meticulous organisation and enthusiastic support of individual team members is above and beyond any other company out there by far.

Added to which, even though you will be undertaking a serious expedition, you know you will also have an incredibly enjoyable experience. Tim goes that extra mile to ensure that when you have 'down time' to relax at base camp, it's made as enjoyable and entertaining as possible.

Personally, I would not go on an expedition with anyone else.'

So there you have it - praise indeed. Have a look at my Ama Dablam and Everest expedition pages for further testimonials and information.

Why look further?

Western Cwm pictures

2011-07-15T12:13:00.001-07:00

Just managed to get round to uploading some more pictures for your pleasure and entertainment. These are in and around The Western Cwm.

Other than that it's been a pretty busy week. Out Tues and Weds with a lad who's only been climbing a short while. We managed to rattle off Little Chamonix (VDiff), 2 routes on Brown Slabs (around MS), CDM (VS) and Fisher's Folly (VS) and then the following day Troutdale Pinnacle Direct (VS), Brown Crag Wall (MVS), Brown Slabs Crack (VS) and Creeping Jesus (HVS). All in all a fine effort.

Got a couple of runs in this week and a daddy day as well (aaah). Also a few more Ama Dablam enquiries so that's starting to get pretty full now.

The B&B is now chocker for the next few weeks and I have a couple of meetings lined up with folk for Everest so pretty excited about that. Also putting the finishing touches to my winter lecture dates - I'll let you know as soon as anything is in the diary.

Trip Advisor abuse ... again (and again)

2011-07-11T12:34:00.000-07:00

I don't read The Daily Mail myself - but I was interested to see this article about good old Trip Advisor.

Pictures

2011-07-06T08:12:00.000-07:00

Have managed to get round to adding some more photos from the recent Everest expedition. Hope that you enjoy them.

Another 2 bookings taken for Ama Dablam! It's going to be another busy year as there are some people trekking in before us to meet at Base Camp when we arrive and get straight on to the hill. Then there is the main group that I'll be looking after for the full duration - and some more folk arriving right at the end as the main group are vacating the hill.

Then there are the folk doing Island Peak as well. It's getting complicated.

Off for a run shortly over Blencathra. Been a pissy day but it's nice now so looking forward to that.

Trains

2011-07-05T03:47:00.000-07:00

Organising a trip to see a client in London and the train tickets are £38 for 2nd class or £29 1st class. Now let me think about that one for a few minutes.

Ama Dablam - limited space available

2011-07-05T00:31:00.002-07:00

I'm not quite sure what is so special about Monday 4th July (apart from in the USA of course) but for some reason I received an unprecedented 5 enquiries about this year's expedition to Ama Dablam. Don't get me wrong, I'm not complaining, but I'm just surprised it was 5 all on the one day rather than being spread through the week.

A couple of them are for the regular KTM to KTM trip but the rest are for bespoke itineraries taking in a bit of trekking initially and then meeting at Base Camp so I'm cracking on with those schedules today. There's now only a few places left so if you are thinking of coming along then please get in touch sooner rather than later.

This is on top of the 3 enquiries I've had about Everest 2012 just last week so at this rate it looks like it's going to be over subscribed. There are also folk interested in Everest 2013 and '14!

Helped out on a Bob Graham leg 5 a couple of weeks ago - a great family event with loads of kids involved from Littletown back to Keswick. But commiserations to the friend of Roel and Kerry (Ama 2009) who completed in 24 hours and 8 minutes.

The B&B is looking pretty busy for July and August with some weeks having limited or no availability. Our housekeeper Suzanna is doing a sterling job and maintains the highest standards, as you would expect from a 4* establishment.

As ever I've had the usual calls selling advertising in far away counties, or buying top places on the interweb, so I've added a couple of links on to the Elm Tree Lodge home page for advertisers and webmasters to click. Perhaps when they read that we are already on Page 1 or high on Page 2 of Google, and that over 60% of our enquiries are from search engines, of which 50% are our organic listing on Google, they will leave us alone. We'll see.

Ama Dablam 2011 and Everest 2012

2011-06-25T11:51:00.000-07:00

Another busy day. Looked after the kids because Ali was on the 10 in 10 event (10 mountains around Buttermere in under 10 hours raising money for MS. Unfortunately in the pouring rain and thick mist). Met up with them fleetingly at Honister.

Took a booking for Ama Dablam so that expedition is now nearly full. And have managed to get some more pics from the 2011 expedition on to the Everest 2012 website.

More to follow ...

Everest 2011 - Expedition pics

2011-06-24T15:16:00.000-07:00

Have finally managed to get round to uploading some proper pics from the recent Everest expedition.

Check out the first instalment.

A slideshow for a small audience

2011-06-23T08:29:00.000-07:00

Gave a small slideshow presentation ... for Grace's class. Really great to manage to show them all what it is that 'Grace's Dad' does when he goes away. Just kept it short as they are 5 & 6 year olds but it was nice to get them answering questions about what they thought the various pictures were of like; 'what's in the cylinder?', 'so why do we use oxygen?', 'what's that animal?' etc etc. Loads of questions at the end as well - so they seemed to have been interested in it all. Which is cool.

Have eventually managed to get back to being on the top page(s) of Google and Yahoo again. Hadn't realised that being away for 2 months would have such an impact on the various websites and we were on a lowly page 3 and even Page 4 for some keyword combinations. Yikes!

Launched a new website last week and we're on Page 1 of Yahoo and Page 3 of Google already. Yip yip. Page 1 here I come.

Climbing, Ama Dablam and Project X

2011-06-22T13:31:00.001-07:00

Well it's been a while but I've managed to clear my post Everest in tray, catch up with the family and start to get out and about a bit.

Supported Fiona Grove on her Bob Graham Round and what an effort she put in. I was sort of (post expedition high) tempted to join her but I'm glad that I didn't. Supported leg 5 and when we got in to Keswick it felt like I'd done 3 or 4 of the legs back to back. Absolutely nothing left in my legs after being severely depleted on Everest.

Have had quite a few Ama Dablam enquiries for this year and next (the mailing list for enquiries for Ama 2012 has topped 20 already) and have met various people for the next couple of expeditions.

Got out climbing with Ali the other day and turned up to the crag without my harness (it's been a while. In fact this was my first summer rock route since last September). So I tied in around my waist and climbed old school - but I tell you what you don't half feel vulnerable when you haven't got a comfortable padded harness on. So we pootled up Eve and had a great time.

Have managed to get some interest for me to do a lecture circuit next winter. Not quite sure how many venues but it will probably just stay in county. Although, as I write, I've just remembered a couple of venues who were showing interest before I went away. So I'll get that lined up and publish a programme accordingly.

Am also in talks with various people and comapnies regarding 'Project X' - a massive personal undertaking that I have planned for next year.

In the meantime don't forget to check out the various video clips from the recent Everest expedition (embedded in the Blog - see below) and I have added a 5 part series to YouTube of an hour long film I made of the expedition. If you are interested in having your own copy then get in touch and I'll drop it on to dvd for you (there's a £5 charge to cover P&P).

Sit back and enjoy the show.

And lest we forget there's the B&B. We appointed Suzanna as housekeeper to run the show whilst I was away and are keeping her on until the autumn. She is doing a terrific job and keeping the place in tip top condition. This is great because not only does it mean that we can go away for our first ever summer holiday, but it also frees me up for the climbing bookings that I have throughout summer and will make the run up to the next Ama trip that bit easier as well. Plus plenty of time and energy to devote to 'Project X!'

Watch this space.

Trip Advisor or Trip Abuser ?????

2011-06-02T06:30:00.000-07:00

Always thought TripAdvisor was flawed and open to abuse. Interesting piece in The Times today. Made me delve further and guess what ... loads of articles about the site being undermined by fake reviews (both +ve and -ve) by people either bigging up their own site or undermining the opposition. I guess I've always been wary of single entry comments.

Check out bit.ly/bUW98N, thetim.es/QpKmR, bit.ly/jSTfHA, bit.ly/iyowE0 & The Times today.

Radio Cumbria interview

2011-06-01T10:31:00.000-07:00

Arriving at The South Col

2011-05-28T07:47:00.000-07:00

... summit push continued

2011-05-25T21:11:00.000-07:00

So ... Giles was at C2 and the rest of us holed up at The South Col. We could have perhaps made it down further but we were very tentative about the fact that we would have then been on The Lhotse Face in the heat of the afternoon having probably not really had enough to drink through the previous 4 or 5 days. Not a great combination. So we dived (crawled) back in to the tent and brewed up and rested. Effectively this made it our 3rd night at, or above, the South Col. Quite a long time to be loitering at around 8,000m but with a little bit of oxygen every so often and with pretty much constant brewing up we maintained and looked after ourselves and kept in good order. Well worth the investment in time and effort.

May 21st - up and away and down the ropes towards C2 (and Giles was off down to Base Camp). A longish day but reasonably straight forward given that it was pretty much downhill all the way. Nice to be back down to a more oxygen rich environment compared to the altitudes we'd just been subjected to for the last week or so.

It was a great shame to find ourselves sliding down the ropes past a dead Japanese climber. We'd seen him on the summit push - just sitting in the snow with his hand held out - but he'd already died on the 12th and the weather had been such that recovery of the body had been impossible until the 20th. The long and short of it is that we'd heard it was his 3rd attempt on Everest and, for whatever reason, he'd had an argument with his Climbing Sherpa. He'd told his Climbing Sherpa to piss off, which he duly did, leaving the Japanese chap to his fate. Anyway it was a poignant reminder about the environment we were in and a suitable focus to make sure that we were going to make it down to C2 safely.

May 22nd - Spent the night at C2 and then up (at 5) and away early (6) to make sure we were down through the Khumbu Icefall before it started hotting up too much. It was amazing to see the differnce between how it had been a fortnight ago and what it was now like. There had been many subtle (and some not so subtle) changes and movements and it was definitely better to be there early morning whilst everything was still cold and frozen.

Talking of cold ... when we got to Base Camp we were given the BEST bottle of coke EVER.

R.I.P Chris Walker. A brief tribute from the summit.

2011-05-25T04:38:00.000-07:00

Summit push round up

2011-05-25T03:37:00.000-07:00

So ... where to start? It's been a while since we managed to give a proper update and so much has happened that it is difficult to remember exactly the order of events.

Anyway it went something like this ...

10th May - left Base Camp for Camp 2. An exciting day as we were effectively heading for our summit push.

The view from the top of The Khumbu Icefall looking towards Nuptse

11th May - rest day at Camp 2. Situated at 6,400m it only has 2 further camps above it whereas on the North side of the mountain the equivalent camp at 6,400m is ABC and has 4 (or perhaps 3) camps above depending on the size of your group and the logistics involved. Camp 2 on the South side is a much more pleasant place to be and catches a lot of sun. Yes it is chilly at night and, being at 6,400m, is a tiring place to be, but the North ABC by comparison doesn't get the sun until about 11 in the morning and is pretty much baltic all the time.

12th May - summit push is on and we are heading to C3 with a view to continuing to the South Col the following day and setting out for the summit on the night of the 13th / summiting on the morning of the 14th. Having arrived at C3 and sorted all the tents, arranged everyone's mattresses, started brewing up, put the food and Os in the right places the radio cracked in to life. Giles was having an appalling day and was very downbeat and Jen was also having difficulty having pulled most of her intercostal muscles from coughing fits she'd been having. For Giles this partly seemed to be on the back of a bout of illness he'd had at Base Camp prior to the 10th which had laid him low for a few days. But even so he seemed to be struggling more than he should have been - especially when compared to the relative ease he'd been experiencing earlier in the trip. I dropped back down to assist Jen with her rucksack and then back down again to assist Giles by just being there with him as he ascended. It turned out to be quite a long hard day.

Sunset view from Camp 3

13th May - weather window has changed and high winds are forecast. The South Col is not the place to be in poor weather so we head back down to C2. Giles was quite subdued and we had a chat. We came up with 3 options. 1 - he drop to Base Camp for a rest. 2 - he drop to Dingboche for a rest. 3 - he try sleeping on a low flow of oxygen at Camp 2. We realised that options 1 and 2 would probably develop in to options 1a or 2a which would be returning to Kathmandu.

14th May - not quite sure what the weather is doing and are reluctant to head back to Base Camp just in case we find ourselves down the mountain when we should be heading up. It's a good place to rest BUT it's quite a lot of effort to descend and, in particular, a big effort to reascend. So we decide to stay put. Thankfully Giles had had his best night's sleep for a long time and was a changed man.

15th May - another rest (!) day at C2.

Full moon rising over Lhotse from Camp 2

16th May - Looks like it's going to be good for the night of the 18th / morning of the the 19th so we're off to get ourselves in the right place at the right time. How exciting.

17th May - Traipse back up to C3 (7,100m) en route to ...

18th May - The South Col. Exploring new territory as we make our way to 7,950m and move in to our temporary camp at The South Col. Interestingly I met this chap ... who had his crampons on the wrong feet. I'd mentioned it to him as tactfully as possible about 3 hours previously and his excuse was that he'd been in a rush to go to the loo (oh, that's ok then). He did nothing about it despite often stopping for rests. The fact that he was letting his Sherpa do absolutely everything for him at every rebelay (from unclipping karabiners and jumars to feeding and managing him) says a lot and he was so totally out of his depth that it was worrying. Needless to say I decided to put a lot of distance between us.

A day of legendary terrain as we make our way further up The Lhotse Face, across to The Yellow Band, over to The Geneva Spur and arrive at The South Col.

Continuing up The Lhotse Face above Camp 3

The Yellow Band with Everest in the background

Approaching the South Col (in very windy conditions)

Oxygen stashed at The South Col

Unfortunately the weather has changed again and so, instead of just being there for a few hours in preparation for our summit bid we have to stay for the night.

19th May (morning and afternoon) - Amazingly it is possible to be reasonably comfortable at nearly 8,000m. We rest and rehydrate through the day having listened to the maelstrom through the night. Just as well we hadn't set off in to the squall or we'd have returned without the summit under our belts and possibly missing digits to frostbite.

19th May (night time) - it's our time to go and we busy ourselves getting ready. It took almost 2 hours just to pack sleeping bags, don our down suits, boots, harnesses and busy ourselves with last minute preparations.

Ready for the off

Then it's out in to the bitter cold night, pop crampons and oxygen on and set off in to the dark. Unfortunately the number of people who'd been set to go the night before (like ourselves) along with those scheduled for the 19th makes for a busy night. We moved desperately slowly with little chance of overtaking those that are slower than us. The terrain is such that to unclip from the rope and over take is an invitation for disaster - and the way from The South Col to The Balcony is no place to be courting danger.

20th May - Gradually we get ever higher on the hill. I had to stop at The Balcony and take my boots off! We'd been going desperately slowly and I'd realised that my feet were getting colder and colder. I could just about feel movement but knew that if I didn't do something soon I would either be going down or wouldn't be able to play 'This little piggy' or be able to wear sandals without scaring people.

I'd been pondering for a while what the problem was (apart from the ambient temperature) and realised that the crux was that either my feet had gone up a couple of sizes (possible but not probable) or I'd put Ali's liner socks on instead of mine (probable) which meant that my feet were getting squeezed a tad which was restricting my circulation. Therein lies a problem Mr and Mrs Smartwool - your socks aren't marked with the size on which means that it is very easy for pairs to get mixed up in outdoors families drawers and cupboards.

So ... outer boot off, inner boot off, instant freezing of socks due to -30 degree temperatures, outer sock off, inner sock off, outer sock back on, inner boot on and outer boot on. Do up various straps and laces and attempt to rewarm hands. And repeat with the other foot. After this I quickly changed to my second oxygen bottle so that I probably wouldn't have to stop again on the way to the summit.

This didn't take too long but I noticed the difference straight away. The Balcony is a popular stopping point for teams to quickly rest, change oxygen bottle, take on some energy and reassemble. Luckily once I'd managed to take the all too small socks off I was able to pop in front of a few teams and found myself with Jen and Susan (plus their Sherpas).

Jen all frozen up on the way to The Balcony

Gradually we made our way higher as the sun started to rise and were able to start to enjoy the ever changing views. Some amazing sights.

Looking back down to The Balcony (and the queues we'd managed to get ahead of)

But even so - there was a bit of a queue ahead as well.

Managed to gradually get past a few more people where the terrain allowed and then suddenly we're on the ridge and making our way towards the South Summit. I saw Giles making his way down (he'd summited at 05.15!!) and I could see Hillary Step and the summit in the distance. I met Partha on his way down as well and then the next thing (about 2 hours later!!) I was on the summit as well.

It was a bit breezey and quite cold but I busied myself with doing some video footage and enjoying the environment. After a while Jen and her Sherpa (Dorje Gyalgen) joined me followed by Susan and Padawa. By now I'd been on the top for an hour and it was time to go. We made our way back to The South Summit, rested for a while, and then on back to The Balcony where I collected my socks and an empty water bottle I'd left there. I also changed back to my first (half full) bottle of oxygen and sent some texts (most of which it subsequently turns out didn't get through).

Popped down the ropes rather tentatively as I was adamant that I didn't want to relax and have a lapse of concentration. Only when I was a few hundred metres from the South Col did I dare do a piece to camera reflecting on the success of the day.

20th May - (night time). Giles had been so far ahead of the rest of us that he had made the decision to go to C2 (a massive day).

to be continued ....

Video from the summit

2011-05-25T02:49:00.000-07:00

Summit day photos

2011-05-22T04:42:00.000-07:00

Just a quick update as we have been away for nigh on 10 days or so (I've lost count). Basically we went up for a weather window which closed so we dropped back down to C2 but then another window opened so we didn't have time to drop down to BC so we sayed at 2 to then go to 3 and on to the South Col. That window promptly closed so we spent a night and a day at the South Col waiting (and hoping) and then set off in to the night.

It was a desperately cold night and, because of the foul weather the night before, there were a lot of people setting off for the summit. Even though we set off at 8.30p.m. we were still in a big long queue of very slow climbers. Anyway we trudged and waited and climbed and eventually, after an inordinate amount of time, we reached the top of the world. Giles arrived first, then Partha, then myself followed by Jen and Susan.

All now at Everest Base Camp and chilling. Trerkking out tomorrow and hope to be in KTM Weds morning.

I'll expand on the story another day. In the meantime ... some photos (which are sort of out of order I'm afraid and the connection is too slow for me to move them around).

Moonrise over Lhotse

Full moon over Lhotse from C2

Approaching the Yellow Band

Giles on The Geneva Spur

The top of the Geneva Spur

Relaxing at The South Col

Ultra relaxing at The South Col

The view from our tent looking towards the route for the summit bid.

Looking back down towards the Balcony

Kanchenjunga (far) and Makalu (near) around sunrise

Jen - all frozen up

Setting off in to the night

Looking down towards the Balcony

Makalu

The Khumbu

Looking back towards Lhotse

Jen on the summit

Tim on the summit

Strange ice formation

Sunset from Camp 3
Setting off from C2 for the summit bid

Twitter News!

2011-05-22T02:58:00.000-07:00

All now safe back at BC having summited on the 20th. Hurrah! Well done us! We're on 00977 98131 65232 if you want to txt. KTM here we come!

[not in tweet but helpful advice] Please remember to start your txt with the name of the person(s) you are sending it to (where appropriate)

Summit Tweet

2011-05-20T11:50:00.000-07:00

The world's highest update from the summit of Everest! An amazing view. Off down to C2 soon once we've taken the obligatory photos. Tim

WAITING FOR A WINDOW

2011-05-17T00:28:00.000-07:00

By Abi at Base Camp

Well, a few days later at Camp 2 and the waiting game is ongoing. The weather is being rather fickle at the moment and this is making robust forecasting for summit windows rather difficult. Its not that the weather is dreadful, but at this altitude, you only get one chance at summiting mainly because ascending from the South Col to summit is so demanding. So, climbers do not want to waste their reserves on a summit window that is not a definite bet, so to speak. There is a lot at stake......so its important to save physical and emotional reserves for a clear window that provides enough time to allow for a serious summit bid.

Everyone in the team is raring to go and awaiting starters orders eagerly...........

Unfortunately I am having to depart before the team has had a chance to summit. It has been a privilege to be able to help contribute to the team's progress over the weeks of acclimatization and initial ascents up to Camp 3 on Everest. The team have been wonderful to travel with and get to know over our time here in Nepal. Tim, as ever, has been a superb leader of the highest caliber, and great friend to all team members. He has approached this expedition with the utmost professionalism, providing everyone with the tailored support they have required as the expedition has evolved.

So, my part in the story ends here, but the adventure is not yet over..........

WATCHING AND WAITING

2011-05-14T06:46:00.001-07:00

(By Abi at base camp)

Well, there have been ups and downs (quite literally) over the last few days with Tim's team on the mountain. The team ascended to camp 2 in excellent time and then rested for the following day.....building up the strength for the Lhotste Face and ascent to camp 3 the next day. So, next day was a pre-dawn Alpine start from camp 2 to avoid the searing midday heat and energy sapping effect of the sun while exposed on the Lhotse Face ascending to camp 3. The whole team reached the camp in good order, but understandably exhausted from the effort involved. Rest and rehydration was the order of the day, while weather forecasting information reaching base camp was indicating that wind speeds higher up the mountain appeared to be looking unfavorable for the following few days. Stay put or descend? That was the question........

After much deliberation, the decision to descend to camp 2 next morning was taken. To stay poised on the mountain, but rest at a more tolerable altitude until a window of opportunity arises. The team have had an excellent night sleep and awake with the hope that today's forecasting might indicate an easing of conditions sometime soon. Apart from some minor aches and pains from the efforts of ascending/descending Lhotse Face, everyone is in good health and clearly in the mood for a serious summit bid. We're all watching and waiting.........

Tickety tockety

2011-05-11T00:25:00.000-07:00

Well sometime in the not too distant future we'll be heading up the hill on our next foray. It may well be our summit attempt but I'm afraid I won't be able to divulge dates to you just yet.

Abi (our illustrious trip doctor) will be able to update Twitter and FBook and in turn J'thong (our illustrious UK comms man) will be able to keep the Blog updated.

We have one piece of unfortunate news - Chris had to leave the expedition early and is now back in the UK. I won't go in to the medical details but suffice to say he is fine - he just had an episode that we felt warranted further investigation in Kathmandu and returning to altitude was not an option. He was a very strong climber and a valued member of the team and it has been very sad that he has had to depart. We'd have all put money on him summiting.

It's just as well that we have had a few rest days as the longevity of the trip, and the time spent at altitude, has had it's impact with virtually everyone being ill or run down in one way or another. Thanks to Abi, and her extensive medical knowledge, we have managed to get everyone back to pretty much full strength, albeit that some of the team are now rattling with the number of pills they are taking.

So ... as I said it may well go quiet from these here parts for a few days so please be patient and don't fret.

Exciting times!

Wish us luck....

Tim & Co

From Twitter

2011-05-08T08:19:00.001-07:00

Kenton & Seb have just returned to Base Camp after summiting Everest yesterday. Both looking very well considering. Congrats well deserved.

The Lhotse Face

2011-05-06T02:32:00.001-07:00

Well we are back at Base Camp and so it's time for an update.

We set off back up the hill 4 days ago and went straight to Camp 2. Our previous journey had been broken by a couple of nights at C1 but we decided to miss that out this time and go straight to C2. What a big day. We set off in the early(ish) hours to avoid being in the heat of the day too much. But even just getting to C1 is a reasonable outing. So we stopped for a while there and had a brew and then set off again for C2.

Thankfully later in the afternoon it clouded over somewhat and made the trip in to the Western Cwm a bit more tolerable. But even so it's the best part of 5 to 8 hours of walking at altitudes in excess of 6,000m and so is inevitably quite tiring.

After a rest day we then made our way over to The Lhotse Face to gain some more altitude and touch Camp 3. It's quite a way and it's a lot of effort to go and sleep there so generally people touch C3 (7,100m to 7,300m depending on where your tents are pitched) and then drop down again to C2, and then on down to EBC.

The Lhotse Face ... another of those names steeped in the history of Everest and the pioneers of old. It's amazing. From C2 we could clearly see the line of little dots making their way up the slopes to C3 and then on to the beginning of the diagonal traverse over to The Geneva Spur which leads onto The South Col. It took around 2 hours to even get to the bottom of the Face from C2 and then suddenly the angle changed quite dramatically and it was time for the jumar (a device with teeth which grips the rope) to be called in to action. By now it was quite warm and we were all in the intense light and heat of the day but there's not a lot you can do about it. So ... move the jumar, step up, jumar, step, jumar, pant, pant, cough, pant, breathe, don't look down, jumar, step, jumar, step .... and so it went on for the best part of 2 hours. Relentless but absolutely exhilarating.

And that's about it - we've done our rotations at altitude and are now ready for the green light. Obviously there are all the logistics to make sure are in place, and that everyone is still fit and healthy, the Climbing Sherpas are rested, there's enough tents and oxygen in the right places on the hill, and the winds are low, the temperature is acceptable etc etc. But intrinsically the next time we go to C3 will be to sleep there, and then make our way on towards the South Col and so on to the summit. How exciting.

To pee or not to pee? - that is the question.

2011-05-06T02:30:00.000-07:00

Clearly Tim has goner off his rocker I hear you say. But this is just one of the aspects of high altitude mountaineering that I thought I'd share with you.

What generally happens on the hill is that we are all tucked up in our down sleeping bags by around 8 because it is just too cold to sit around in the mess tent. So after a few minutes wrestling out of clothes and in to sleeping bags it's time for a quick read and then slumber. And when sleep comes it can be really really deep. I generally have a fantastic deep sleep and then wake up bursting for a wee. But it's cold out there and I'm all toasty in my bag. And, hey, I can hang on for a while until it's time to be getting up. Or can I? I generally doze on and off for ages trying to get back to sleep but the feeling of discomfort is soooo overwhelming that returning to sleep is nigh on impossible. Best check the time to make sure I can make it until breakfast, and it's then that I discover it's around 11.30p.m. Aaarrrggghhh.

So clearly I'm not going to make it until getting up time, in which case it's pee time. Now I used to always get up and go outside and admire the view of the stars whilst having a tinkle. But that was on lower peaks where the temperature is generally a few degrees warmer. But since being introduced to the pee bottle I have been converted. I won't go in to the gory details but basically you pee in to a bottle and do the top up. Depending on the time of night depends on whether you are advised to empty it straight away. If you empty it straight away then this tends to send a shower of frost crystals over your unfortunate tent partner as you open the tent zipper and discharge the contents outside. But if you decide not to empty it then the risk is that it freezes, thereby rendering it unusable again that night - which could be a BIG problem if you decided you desperately needed to go again. And when you sometimes have to go three, four or even five times a night this could suddenly become a BIG problem.

Anyway, enough of that, I've had a pee in a bottle and emptied it. Back to sleep? Er, no. What happens next can only be described at H.A.T.A.T. (High Altitude Tossing And Turning). You try for all your worth to sleep but it just doesn't happen. Every time you turn over you get showered with ice crystals. Your tent partner does the pee bottle thing and showers ice over you. You get bouts of sleep apnoea and feel that you are suffocating. You breath freezes on to the inside of your sleeping bag and forms an icy crust around your head and shoulders. And so it goes on. All the way through the night. Until about 5 in the morning when you eventually doze off only to be woken up at soon after 5 when the tent starts getting very light as the sun come sup. So another hour or so of tossing and turning until it's time to get up.

And that just about sums up the average night on the hill.

Thankfully we are now down at Base Camp for a well earned rest. When we first arrived here and this was our highest altitude then all of the above was part and parcel of being at altitude. But now that we have been sleeping far higher, in actual fact Base Camp produces really deep long sleeps.

I'd write some more but I'm off to bed.

Night night.

Injections and oxygen (some rest day)

2011-05-01T07:44:00.000-07:00

Well we are in the midst of a thoroughly good rest session. We've been practicing injections today just in case we have an issue on summit day and need to start administering some high altitude drugs. Also chatted through the drugs that we will be carrying on summit day as well as discussing our plans and contingencies for getting from Camp 3 to The South Col and The South Col to the summit and back.

This afternoon we then had a look at the masks and oxygen system so that everyone in the team is now thoroughly coherent with everything that we may / will encounter between now and the top.

We're having another rest day tomorrow when we'll be having a gentle jaunt to Pumori Base Camp (or C1) for a leg stretch and hopefully views across to The South and North Col.

We've been having a bit of snow here and there but this morning awoke to the best views yet - crystal clear blue skies and an awesome mountain vista.

We're sharing our Base Camp and mess tent with Kenton Cool (and his friend Seb Rougegre - Seb's first time on the hill) who has very kindly been sharing plenty of info with us - particularly with regards to summit day - which has been extremely useful for the team to be able to visualise what is coming up sometime in the next few weeks.

Hopefully we'll be able to drop another update before we head for C2 on Tuesday.

Until then ...

It's snowing at Everest Base Camp.

2011-04-30T02:42:00.000-07:00

We're just back from 3 nights on the hill. The journey to Camp 1 (around 6,000m) was totally stupendous. Having only ventured a third of the way in to The Khumbu Icefall the day before we suddenly found ourselves covering a lot of new terrain. In particular - LADDERS. Ladders over small gaps, ladders with broken rungs, wobbly ladders, bent ladders, ladders against walls and ladders over huge yawning crevasses. Top tip? DON'T LOOK DOWN! But you have to look down to see where you are going to put your feet. And depending on the size of your boots and crampons, and depending on the make of ladder, depends on whether your crampons fit nicely across two rungs or whether they don't quite reach and you have to balance and slide around on the instep. Most of the ladders have ropes on either side and, with a bit of help from people behind pulling the ropes taught, you can maintain some kind of balance whilst gingerly stepping from rung to rung. But occasionally the angles are all wrong and you find yourself being pulled sideways and off balance. Or there are other times when you get to a ladder on your own and so you have to lean forward, taking up the strain from the anchors behind you, and you end up looking down even more! Of course after a sweat inducing 2 or 3 minutes you are safely on the other side only to witness some Climbing Sherpas dance across in a couple of steps and continue, virtually running, uphill along the trail.

Anyway we arrived at C1 and got ourselves moved in for one night. Unfortunately it was pretty windy and snowy and as a result the trail was blown over. We were a little concerned that we may find ourselves heading to C2 and end up in a white out, in crevasse territory and with no way of knowing where the safe route went, so we opted for a second night at C1. This was a good and a not so good move. It was good in that when we arrived at C2 the next day we were all very well acclimatised from the benefit of 2 nights at C1. But it was bad news because when you have to spend 36 hours in a tent you go slightly stir crazy and when the sun comes up it is like being in a furnace. Solution?Open the tent doors. Unfortunately this wasn't quite as easy as hoped because the tent just started to fill with very fine spindrift being blown in - a bit like being inside a snow globe. Close the doors and it was overheating time again.

Anyway we survived the ordeal and made our way to C2 and everyone got there in around 3 hours or less - which is a brilliant time for the first foray. Not that we were racing. Just gently gently catchy monkey and suddenly we're all at 6,450m. C1 is a sort of temporary stop gap and now that we've used it once we probably won't need it again. Whereas C2 is permanently manned with a cook tent and a dining tent so being tent bound isn't as much of a problem.

So we heard that there may well be some snow coming in and opted to come on down after 3 nights on the hill. A fourth night would have been good but in the end we preferred to be at Base Camp if it snowed, than to be at C2. And guess what - it snowed. Having said that it was only a slight flurry but we are all feeling so much better for the drop in altitude and having had a shower and a great sleep.

The journey down was reasonably straight forward and everyone was down in 4 to 5 hours. Not quite sure how long we'll be down for but we envisage having a couple of rest days and then heading straight back to C2 for a 3 or 4 night foray with a visit to C3 (7,100m). We'll be chilling for the rest of today and we'll have movie and some snacks this afternoon.

Tomorrow we'll be doing drugs. I don't mean that we'll be sitting around smoking pot - but practicing drawing up and giving injections as well as swotting up on the high altitude drugs that we'll be carrrying (but hopefully not needing). Everyone will have their own supply - just in case. We'll also be having a session using the oxygen sets and masks so that we are getting tuned in and ready for the summit push - whenever that may be.

From the Tweets

2011-04-29T07:32:00.000-07:00

Down at Base Camp after 3 nights on the hill. Khumbu Icefall & Western Cwm amazing.
As was the hot shower I just had!

from the tweet

2011-04-25T01:14:00.001-07:00

Just had a foray in to The Khumbu Icefall - what an amazingly AWESOME place. Off to Camp 1 tomorrow for 2 or 3 nights.

Touring the Khumbu & the ascent of Pokalde

2011-04-24T07:11:00.000-07:00

After nearly 3 weeks touring the Khumbu we finally arrived at Everest Base Camp yesterday in rather snowy conditions. The acclimatisation schedule seems to have worked a treat and everyone has had a great 1st night. Today has been a day of unpacking bags and boxes and discovering what we all sent out in the freight nearly 8 weeks ago - our Base Camp equivalent of an Easter egg hunt. Talking of which, we had mini easter eggs and chocolate selection boxes (Hello Kitty for the girls and Toy Story for the boys - which had all travelled better than expected).

The ascent of Pokalde a few days ago was a great success and everyone reached the summit in under 2 hours from the Kongma La. It was nice to have great views and be able to chill at just over 5,800m for ages taking in the panorama. Back down at the Kongma La camp (around 5,450m) Jen's artistic flair came to light when she decided to stamp out 'The Big E 2011' in 20 foot long letters on the frozen lake. Personally I would have preferred 'elmtreelodge-keswick.co.uk - vacancies available but book early to avoid disappointment' - but it would perhaps have taken up too much space.

EBC is quite a sprawling area and from the first tents we had to keep going for another 20 mins or so before we got to our camp. The whole site is an amazing area on a rubble covered glacier with another pristine glacier dropping down from the Western Cwm. Tomorrow we'll be venturing in to the Khumbu Icefall - which apparently is in great condition this year with the widest span across a crevasse being 3 ladders connected together.

The following day our intention is to pop up to Camp 1 (around 6,000m). When I say 'pop up' - it could take anywhere between 3 and 8 hours depending on how quickly folk can move in the increasingly rarefied atmosphere, how everyone takes to the ladder crossings and how much traffic there is. To put it in to perspective the Sherps tend to go to C1 in around 2 hours!

All being well we'll be at C1 for 1 or 2 nights and then on up to C2 (6,400m) for a night.

So we'll be off the air for a few days but hopefully will have some photos to send soon. We'll try and keep you all updated as much as possible but when it comes to summit push time we may go quiet for a while. Partly because we'll be on the hill (!) but also because we are aware that there are other teams out there who are following our progress (and therefore our weather forecasting as well). It would be somewhat silly on our part to shout from the tree tops (tent tops?) about our summit attempt to only find that it then made for a congested few days.
That's about all for now ... Tim and Co

You can follow our progress at
www.thebige2011.co.uk
When you are there if you subscribe you'll
automatically get updates - hot off the press.

snippets from the txts

2011-04-24T03:36:00.000-07:00

Firstly if you are with O2 and trying to get your texts to the Everest Team - Give up now... You'll need to borrow a phone using a different service provider (don't forget to start your text with "To [name of person or persons sending to]")
Here are some of the text based updates from the gang:

Team at Gorak Shep for tea and biccies, then off to Everest Base Camp (EBC), our home for the next 5 weeks. Let the fun begin!

Trekked through Scottish Winter Conditions Yesterday. Gloriously sunny this morning (at the moment but clouds are building!) Off to Sleep at 5,300m

Had a great night at 5,450m. Having a second night then we'll be at EBC on the 23rd. Then the real work begins!

Arrived at EBC in fine fettle! Snowing at the moment and apparently set in for the next 4 days.

Been rumbled. Kenton trekked to EBC in 4 days. Therefore it goes without saying we've just had two weeks on a beach.

A group who look barely capable of trekking to EBC have turned up. Turns out they are the Nepalese Civil Service Everest Team. OMG!

Word on the grapevine is The Khumbu Icefall is in this year. We'll go have a look in a day or two.

SUMMIT SUCESS!!....
...On Pokalde (a tad over 5,800m) Great views all round. Heading back to Kongma La for second night.

Tim & Co

That's all for now folks. I'll keep posting to the blog as news comes in. apologies if the texts appear in the wrong order (it's how they come through and let’s not forget where they're coming from)

We're off

2011-04-18T21:18:00.001-07:00

Just leaving Dingboche and that's our last teahouse for the next 5 or 6 weeks. Team on top form and we're all itching to get to EBC.

Trekking to Dingogma where there is a beautiful grassy camping spot and then on up to around 5,100m tomorrow to camp at the Kongma La. Temperature dropping to around -10 to -15 at night which is good training for the even lower temps we'll be experiencing at Camp 1 and Camp 2 on Everets where it will probably be down to -20 or lower.

We're all pretty well acclimatised now and our O2 sats are around 90 to 95%. At sea level you'd expect 98 to 99% O2 and if you went to hospital with some of the readings we've been getting over the last 2 weeks you'd be a very poorly patient and on oxygen immediately. Typicall, for a lot of the team, our sats dropped to 80 to 85% (Bruce managed a lowly 75%) and although we are now back in to the 90s we're going to be going higher soon and the sats will undoubtedly drop accordingly.

In 2005 my sats were below 70% and my pulse was above 100bpm for 6 weeks. The very day we decided to try for the 5 day summit bid, to catch an 18 hour window, my O2 popped up to 71% and my pulse dropped to 98bpm. I was so obviously ready and acclimatised!

We'll be arriving at EBC in 5 days and then after a couple of days sorting our gear and moving in we'll start exploring the Khumbu Icefall. We've heard that the ropes have been fixed to C2 (that was last week so probably further by now) and Camp 2 is being established so it's all very positive.

All we need to do now is get acclimatised to above 6,500m, spend many uncomfortable nights in various tents on the hill in desperately cold conditions with frost coating the inside of the tents, keep fit and healthy, stay hydrated, get all our kit and equipment to the right places on the hill, stay safe and wait for the weather window. Easy as pie!

Rain, sleet, snow and thunder

2011-04-18T01:27:00.000-07:00

Well what started out as a nice morning has rapidly deteriorated to an awful afternoon. The clouds bubbled up and quickly filled the valley to then make it reasonably dark in Dingboche - so much so that we had difficulty seeing the cards and dice in the bakery!

And now it's thundering as well. Thankfully we are on a well earned rest day and so are staying put - but I do feel for all those trekkers who are now in the middle of their hike to their next destination. Particularly if they were hoping for views.

We're off tomorrow to a great little camp at a grassy meadow on the way to the Kongma La and then 2 nights camping just below the col with some of the best views in The Khumbu looking across to Baruntse and Makalu. We'll pop up Pokalde and then make our way to EBC.

Don't forget that you can e mail any of the group at firstname@thebige2011.co.uk (abi, chris, giles, jen, partha, susan, tim).

Conditions are soon going to be getting colder and we'll be living higher - which is quite a stressful and arduous environment. Added to that the fact that everything is going to be getting much more serious and suddenly messages are even more welcome than usual and are a real morale booster.

Also you can text the team on 00977 98131 65232 - please start your message with 'For Abi' or 'For Chris' rather than 'Hey babe I had the most awesome dream about you last night ...'

So that's all for now and possibly for the next few days.

Cheers for now - Tim and the team.

A couple of well earned rest days

2011-04-17T04:25:00.000-07:00

Just got a few updates from the satphone for the previous few days.

It's a glorious sunny day & we're heading to the lakes below the Renjo La. Only seen 2 westerners in the last 4 days. Awesome.

Played boules last night by the Renjo lake - a great setting. Everyone in fine fettle & ready for the Renjo La & down to Gokyo.

A superb day over the Renjo La, then prawn crackers & soup for lunch in Gokyo. It's time for a pits & bits wash. All fit & well

A longish day up to Nobby's View - about 5,500m. Unfortunately there wasn't a view to be had so we're asking for a partial refund.

Since then we have been over the Cho La pass and are now based at Dingboche for a couple of rest days. It's changed a little bit here - there are 3 internet cafes and a bakery. Needless to say that our first stop was the bakery. Having a rest day tomorrow so it's going to be showers and washing water all round - as well as a bit of time filling up on chocolate doughnuts and coffee.

Not a great deal to update re the team except to say, yet again, that everyone is very well and the acclimatisation schedule seems to be working wonders. Slept the night before last at 5,050m and not a headache in sight - which is exactly what we were hoping for. After Dingboche we are taking in a couple of high camps at the Renjo La (circa 5,200m) and we're going to have a pootle up Pokalde (just a tad over 5,800m). After that we're heading for Base Camp. After a couple of days sorting gear and getting acquainted with our new surroundings things will then take on a slightly different perspective when we start getting to know the route through the Khumbu Icefall and start spending nights at Camp 1 (6,000m) and Camp 2 (6,400m).

Hopefully our 3 week trek will see us fit enough and well enough acclimatised to be moving quickly (in Himalayan terms) and efficiently up and down the lower slopes of The Big E.

In the meantime I'll leave you with last night's anecdote. It was almost a full moon and we were out taking night time shots from Dzongla of Ama Dablam. Bruce just couldn't seem to get his camera to cooperate. 15 second exposure - nothing. 15 second exposure with a wider aperture - nothing. Manual override for all settings including the focus - longer exposure and wider aperture. Still nothing. Then there was the realisation that he still had the lens cap on! Doh!

Some pictures

2011-04-17T02:19:00.001-07:00

Some pictures

2011-04-17T02:17:00.000-07:00

Some pictures

2011-04-17T02:16:00.000-07:00

Some pictures

2011-04-17T02:15:00.000-07:00

Some pictures

2011-04-17T02:14:00.000-07:00

Latest updates

2011-04-17T02:12:00.000-07:00

After a 20Km trek up and down a 5,500m peak yesterday we are now based in Tagnag just below the Cho La pass and will be moving to our high camp (around 5,000m) tomorrow, before dropping down to Dzongla the following day.

The team are all connecting really well together and suffice to say we are having an absolutely brilliant time. Given the enormity of what lies ahead for pretty much the whole of May it's great that we are having a light hearted start to the trip (as well as a great acclimatisaion schedule). Everyone is in fine spirits and are already looking out for each other and concerned for everyone else's welfare. This was one of the underpinning objectives that I had for our acclimatisation trek, and has got to make us a stronger team when we are on the hill, rather than a group of disparate clients who are more concerned for themselves than their tent partners.

As with many funny episodes and anecdotes it is sometimes difficult for the humour to come across and often 'you had to be there.' So you may, or may not, be able to comprehend the funny side of following:

Giles has a bum bag full of games. Originally named the 'bum bag of fun' it is now the 'bag of bum fun' (titter titter). It makes us laugh every time.

Jen was telling us about her AA powered electric gloves (for providing warmth on the hill) and we wondered if Ann Summers may have a similar item but with different connotations? And what would be the implications of taking the wrong gloves to the South Col?

When asked 'whose is this battery?' Susan answered that it belonged in her bra! So electric gloves AND electric bras - hence the enigmatic smile.

Susan later managed to recreate a scene from Green Wing (when one of the characters is so moved by having her jubblies wobbled that she starts to sing an opera by Puchini) - and not only that, but it was full frontal (clothed) to the video camera that she didn't realise was recording. Youtube here we come!

We have also managed to come up with the theory for a solar powered head torch which is powered at night by a mechanism that is connected to the boots that generates light that shines from the helmet on to a photo cell which powers the torch. A Wallace and Gromitt style contraption - we have yet to make a working model.

Lastly Giles recounted a story of when he was younger and in some Scottish hills. Unaware that it would get dark at 3.30 in the afternoon his friend had left his headtorch in the car and Giles' torch had run out of juice - and they needed to read the map to be able to get down off the hill. 'No problem' said Giles and came up with the cunning plan of shooting the flash on his camera (pre digital) for them to instantaneously catch a glimpse of the map. The result? A purple rectangle imprinted on their retinas for the next 40 minutes. South Col with a flat battery? 'Don't worry Lakpa, I have a cunning plan ...'

But like I said - you had to be there at the time.

Just about to get the iPad and speakers set up and take in a movie so gotta dash.

That's all for now folks - but please keep the e mails coming in for the team - it's a tremendous boost. Or you can text your support to my mobile on 00977 98131 65232 and I'll pass on messages accordingly.

Ciao for now - Tim and Co

latest updates

2011-04-10T05:02:00.000-07:00

Well so far so good. The usual exciting flight to Lukla and, being on the first flight, we were landed at around 7 and were having breakfast in Paradise Lodge by 07.15. Hit the trail around 9 and trekked to Monjo, stopping at The Everest Summiter Lodge along the way - which is run by Phendan Sherpa who I summited Everest with in 2005.

On to Namche the next morning for lunch and then on to Kyanjuma to stay with Tashi and Lakpa at the Ama Dablam View Lodge. Great friends and they looked after us a treat with fresh coffee and cheese toasties as well as a visit to their private chapel. Up to the Everest View Hotel for the usual spectacular view of The Khumbu. After lunch in Khumjung a few trekked bask to Tashi's whilst the rest of us went up and through the hidden staircase that leads up to the Mong La. Back down for tea and biscuits.

The following day was a reasonable trek up through Khumjung, over a pass to Thamo, and then on to Thame. Khumjung boasts the longest Mani Wall in The Khumbu and, strangely, two lampposts - one of which is in the middle of nowhere. We're now at 3,800m and so far we're all feeling tickedy boo.

Popped up to the monastery above Thame and had the most amazing puja this morning. The trek over to Thame and the trail up to the monastery are along spectacular paths amongst beautiful wooded hillsides. This morning we had the added bonus of walking along another spectacular Mani wall with some of the stones painted - a sight that you don't tend to see that much around other areas of The Khumbu.

We trekked on down to see a chap called Pasang Nuru who lost all his fingers and toes crossing the Nangpa La a while back and who now paints. And I tell you what they were absolutely amazing. A few of us bought various depictions of The Khumbu from the family and now we're back at Thame.

Probably going to take in a movie this evening on the iPad and then tomorrow we're trekking up the Thame valley and starting to gain more altitude. After a few days we'll be crossing the Renjo La in to the Gokyo valley and looking forward to some of the best panoramic views in The Khumbu from the top of the pass.

Brief updates

2011-04-10T04:29:00.001-07:00

Everyone getting along & all acclimatising very well. It's a tad chilly but considering what we're here for we shouldn't complain.

Brief updates

2011-04-10T04:28:00.000-07:00

Having our 2nd night at Arye, 4350m, before heading to 4900m below the Renjo La

Radio Cumbria

2011-04-04T04:53:00.001-07:00

Radio Interview

The BBC Radio Cumbria Interview recorded 31/03/2011

Brief updates

2011-04-04T02:42:00.001-07:00

Coffee & doughnuts in Namche & it's only 11. Bring it on!

Brief updates

2011-04-04T02:41:00.001-07:00

By eck it poured down in the night. Off to Namche in 30 mins. It's good to be back.

2011-04-04T02:40:00.003-07:00

Just had lunch with Phendan Sherpa - we summited Everest together 6 yrs ago. He's on my summit video on Youtube.

2011-04-04T02:40:00.001-07:00

6.45 - taking off 4 Lukla. Yeeha.

3 Apr

2011-04-04T02:39:00.001-07:00

Just finished packing & leaving in 5 hrs. Only managed 4 hours sleep last night. Feeling jaded.

3 Apr

All systems go ...

2011-04-01T22:11:00.001-07:00

A reasonably hassle free journey to Kathmandu with a Billy bonus complimentary upgrade for 4 of us on the second leg of the journey from Bahrain.

A quick turn around at the hotel, a fab Thai meal and a couple of sherberts at Sam's Bar before retiring, somewhat jetlagged, to bed at the Hotel Manaslu.

Having had breakfast and set some of the group off on their sightseeing tour I'm now sat in Java Coffee having a quick catch up with Kame, our Sirdar, so we can put the finishing touches to quite a complex logistical matrix.

Next stop is Iswari's office, our Kathmandu agent, for final paperwork and then some shopping for supplies.

Meeting the group shortly at Mike's Breakfast.

...

So, shopping now complete, gear all distributed to wherever it needs to be for the various collections over the next few days. We're being collected at 05.15 tomorrow morning for the first flight and, weather permitting, we'll be in Lukla for breakfast.

Then we trek. Our plan is to take a leisurely 3 weeks touring an area to the West of The Khumbu to enable us to chill, get trek fit, get acclimatised, cross a few high passes, climb a peak, contemplate the task ahead of us and, most importantly, to bond. We've got a great team and already they are getting on fantastically. Yes, Everest is a very personal challenge, but it's also a great place to be if you are sharing it with friends and, ultimately, it will make us a much stronger and dynamic team rather than a bunch of disparate (and desperate) clients if we all know and trust each other before getting stuck in to the Big job. The psychological pressure is enormous but we hope to alleviate that by having fun Fun FUN for the whole trip. Light hearted entertainment with a really serious undertone.

Just managed to fit in a quick shave at the barbers so now feeling a tad fresher. Got some repacking to do, meet the group, go for a pizza, have a beer, unpack, sort, repack, grab some sleep and then put the finishing touches to the unpacking and repacking.

Ciao for now. Tim and the team.

Our 15 minutes of fame

2011-03-31T04:05:00.000-07:00

Just published in the Keswick Reminder:

CLIMBER TIM PLANS EVEREST DOUBLE

Keswick climber Tim Mosedale is planning to become just the tenth Brit to summit the world’s highest peak from its north and south sides in a few weeks’ time.

Tim left Cumbria yesterday (Thursday) on the first leg of his journey to Everest where he is leading a party of climbers who are hoping to complete the ascent of the mountain from the Nepalese side.

Tim, who runs a guest house in Keswick with his wife Ali, who is a nurse, was part of the Karrimor expedition in 2005 when he summited Everest from the northern, Tibetan, side.

The father of two has assembled a fully supported expedition with experienced Sherpas including one who has summited Everest twice in the same week.

Tim worked for an Outdoor Centre then spent ten years as a full time climber and mountaineer, guiding in the Himalayas and Greenland. He has over a decade of experience in Nepal where, last November, he added Ama Dablam to his list of summits. He has also climbed 50 unclimbed peaks in Greenland in the course of six expeditions.

He said: “Climbing the south side of Everest is a more expensive operation due to it being a longer trek in and the cost of permits. If successful I will be the tenth Brit to summit from both sides. It’s brilliant that I am able to work on the mountain and it’s the highest accolade I can get on my CV. The great thing is that, in helping the other members of the team to reach their goal, there’s something in it for me if I summit, so everyone is a winner.”

Tim says he cherry picked the people who will be going with him to ensure they had the right attitude and experience to spend eight weeks in close proximity in harsh conditions.

He said: “We fly to Kathmandu then on to a small airfield on the side of the hill at the start of the base camp trail. We are spending three weeks trekking in to give the team time to shake off the western pressures and gel. All bar one have been with me on previous expeditions.

“From a guiding point of view the south side is much safer. In theory it is a bit easier, but Everest is never an easy mountain,” said Tim. “It is the pre-monsoon season, but weather conditions can still be variable.”

Anyone wanting to follow Tim’s progress can visit the blogette at: www.thebige2011.co.uk

Grollies

2011-03-31T01:39:00.000-07:00

Just when I thought I had managed to get everything in hand Ali asked me .... so how many pairs of undies are you taking this year?

Yikes! I knew there was something I'd missed.

Now you may not have heard of the 8 day rule. Wear your pants, then turn them back to front, then inside out, then back to front again (so that's 4 days) and then swap with your tent partner - hey presto 8 days!

Now there are 5 plus myself plus our expedition doctor on this trip so in theory I could get 28 days out of one pair. So 3 pairs should see me right for the whole trip.

Only kidding ... I'll travel in a pair and leave them in KTM to pick up on my return once they have been laundered.

3 days to go ...

2011-03-28T08:41:00.000-07:00

Time is now ticking ever faster as we approach take off (Thurs 10p.m.).

Last minute supplies purchased, comms set up, individual e mail addresses established for the team, paperwork all e mailed to Kathmandu, bookings taken for the B&B and another 2 enquiries for Ama Dablam - one for this year and one for next.

Chatted with the Sirdar this morning and he's all set - so we are meeting for coffee in Kathmandu on Saturday. How bizarre.

Now I just have to pack. Thankfully most of my kit and equipment is already out there but even so I can't decide where to start - especially with the med supplies.

And what I have here is but a third of our medical kit. Hmmm

Keep in touch

2011-03-27T14:34:00.000-07:00

Hi y'all,

Just a quick blogette to say that we all now have our own e mail addresses for you to keep in touch with the team should you want to drop us a line. Check The Big E website for details.

Also you can sign up to our Blog and you'll get a notification whenever we update the site - there's a box on the Blog and a box on The Big E 2011 website for you to enter your e mail address.

In theory the Blog now updates Twitter which then updates Facebook - but there have been teething problems recently and I'm not convinced. So we may well tweet our way up The Khumbu as well.

Hope you enjoy the show ...

6 days to go

2011-03-25T10:07:00.000-07:00

What a bonkers day. Now have slightly fewer than a million and one things to do - but there's still a lot of work to be done before we depart for the BIG trip next Thursday. Just as well I managed to get all the last minute things done a few weeks ago before they became last minute things to do.

Have managed to procure 4 sets of spare crampon heel sections for our G12s. Basically we discovered back in January, whilst doing some pre trip training in Scotland, that the new G12s (which are great) have serrated rear points which get stuck on the rungs of the ladders. There were two solutions - one was to bring the foot slightly backwards before lifting and stepping forward and the other was to get new crampons. BUT seeing as most of the team had just bought new crampons it seemed a bit of a waste to get yet more pairs of crampons. Especially when everyone is spending so much already.

Now then, 'how difficult can it be to slightly alter the way you cross a ladder?' I hear you ask. Not actually that difficult. But when you extrapolate and bear in mind that we may have 30 to 50 ladders to cross and we'll be doing it at altitudes in excess of 5,500m and maybe in the dark with a heavy rucksack on over a yawning crevasse - suddenly it becomes a problem. And some of the ladders are strapped together to form a long wobbly bendy bridge - the most I have heard of to date was 13 (yes thirteen) ladders all connected together to form a bridge over a HUGE gaping chasm.

So back to the drawing board. File or saw off the serrations? Could do, but it seems a shame to adulterate a perfectly good pair of crampons. Try and balance on one rung at a time under the instep instead of placing the foot on 2 rungs and having the heel then catch? Hmmm - 13 ladders strapped together to form a bendy, wobbly bridge over a deep deep crevasse in the early morning whilst it is still bitterly cold and I still haven't quite woken up and you want me to make it harder than it already is - I don't think so.

Ponder ponder. So a quick call to the very helpful guys at The Mountain Boot Company and lo and behold they have managed to find 4 pairs of old style heel sections for us to borrow. Guys - we are indebted to you.

So the recent bit and pieces we've been working on are that we now have Sat comms (I'll be playing with it in the park on Sunday), the most comprehensive expedition 1st aid kit you've ever seen, batteries and solar power galore and movies on the iPad (just downloading Shark in Venice and Mega Shark vs Giant Octopus as we speak! Both truly crap films but we'll need a few light hearted moments to take away the stress).

I've managed to get Twitter to update Facebook (not that difficult) but try as I might the Blog and Feedburner aren't posting to Twitter which is something I may just have to just give up on. We'll just have to post the blog and then post a Tweet to let everyone know. Long winded and not very 21st Century but it will do.

The B&B is full, I'm working on the hill tomorrow and the weather's looking good. Couldn't have planned it better if I tried.

Finalist nomination in prestigious AA category

2011-03-22T12:09:00.000-07:00

Well well, I've just opened the post and am delighted to say that I have been nominated as a finalist in the upcoming AA awards. The ceremony will be held in London on Monday 16th May, but alas I will be on Everest.

So the long and short of it is:

'Dear Mr Mosedale

Congratulations! In the eighteenth year of this prestigious award we are delighted to confirm that you are one of only 25 proprietors who have been nominated by our inspectors from over 3,500 establishments in the AA Guest Accommodation scheme as a finalist in the 2011 AA Friendliest Landlady of the Year competition.'

Regardless of the fact that I am far from being a landlady ... the long and short of it is that Elm Tree Lodge has been nominated as being a friendly place to stay at and we are in the top 1% of AA Guest Accommodation establishments.

What is particularly great here is that when you don't even know you are being assessed and so haven't been jumping through hoops or been on ones best behaviour, but you get nominated, it's quite a compliment.

Must go and iron my dress.

Ama Dablam is a go go again

2011-03-22T01:48:00.000-07:00

Well another 6 bookings for the B&B and another 3 enquiries for Ama Dablam with one wanting to pop a deposit across straight away.

And the really great news is that I have managed to borrow another film for the iPad - A Shark in Venice. It is without a doubt the crappest effort I have ever seen. Utter drivel with appalling special effects (in fact they are so bad they should perhaps just be called 'effects') - and then the cast are so totally serious and bigging themselves up in the 'making of section' that it's cringeworthy. It features one of the illustrious Baldwin brothers - but unfortunately it's Stephen Baldwin. It's the biggest laugh EVER so if you come across it you've got to watch it.

Films, books and music for Everest

2011-03-21T13:58:00.000-07:00

Just managed to get a bunch of films across to the iPad to keep the team entertained for the forthcoming Everest expedition. So we've got from good old Matrix, Bourne and Ocean's trilogies to the likes of Usual Suspects, Fightclub and Plunkett and Macleane but also including a spot of Holy Grail, Dr Strangelove, Borat and Life of Brian for the lighter hearted moments. There's also Snatch, Lockstock, Lucky Number Slevin, Memento and Layercake to mention but a few. Touching the Void - yes. Avalanche? Alive? Vertical Limits? At the moment a resounding no as I have thankfully run out of space.

But what of music and podcasts? What would you take? And books? A great time to read some tome that you would never otherwise consider. War and Peace for instance. But then it's difficult to get stuck in to something that is too heavy when we are trying to remain upbeat and optimistic. It's great to be able to read some easy drivel - but then we also have to consider that people might visit our mess tent and our reading material may well give people the wrong impression of our team of hardy mountaeers. Particularly if all we have on the table is some Jackie Collins novels, the latest Loaded and anything by Dan Brown.

Here's to an entertaining trip.

No where did I put my copy of "Dark Majesty: The Secret Brotherhood and the Magic of a Thousand Points of Light?" (No 11 on the Amazon list of 'Worst Books Ever Written.')

Will they won't they?

2011-03-18T11:19:00.000-07:00

Less than 2 weeks to go and the situation in Bahrain is less than ideal ... because that's where we transit on the way out to Kathmandu.

Gulf Air refuse to acknowledge what Plan B is because as far as they're concerned Plan A is working just fine thanks. But what if, suddenly, Plan A is no longer acceptable? Well they won't say what the alternative is.

I suppose they could fly via another destination (they used to fly via Abu Dhabi but I'm not sure whether they can change locations at the drop of a hat as it will undoubtedly require a lot of ground handling staff and equipment), but my guess is that, if things go truly pear shaped, they'll just give us all a refund.

Which will leave us in a slightly tight spot as there are 11 of us travelling together. So I've come up with our own Plan B which we can put in place at the drop of a hat should we be cancelled.

But there's absolutely nothing we can do about it right now so I'm not even going to worry about it or mention it again.

Apart from that it's all systems go ... so watch this space.

Reciprocal links and refunds

2011-03-15T11:44:00.001-07:00

I need your advice. Do you think that my B&B website (or the climbing and expedition website come to think of it) will be enhanced by having a link exchange with:

DESCRIPTION: NationwidePools - offers metal, resin coated or resin injected above ground pools.

I'm just so touched that they have taken the care to contact me, personally, and I would hate to feel that I am missing out on something here.

Incidentally I've also had some bad news by e mail today. My Abbey National, HBOS and Paypal accounts have all had irregular activity on them and have been suspended - until I click on the link to reactivate them which I'll do in a couple of minutes.

But the good news is that I am due a VAT rebate AND have been overcharged by HMRC and am due a tax refund. Unbelievably I am also the sole descendant of Mustafa Mbooto in S. Africa and he has left his entire legacy of US$97,000,691 to me which is brilliant. I am, however, a bit concerned that this may affect my tax refund so I may decline to get in touch.

2 weeks 2 days 2 go

2011-03-15T07:01:00.003-07:00

Time is ticking and things are getting slightly bonkers now. Taking oodles of bookings at the B&B as people are sorting their breaks and holidays.

Trying to sort as much of the last minute stuff for the expedition before it all becomes last minute stuff. Various items ordered and are in the post, freight is on the way, Bahrain Airport (we transit on the way to KTM) still open, hotel booked in KTM, accommodation booked in The Khumbu, teeth just been checked and our member of staff arrives Friday to run the show whilst I'm away.

Another booking for Ama Dablam and various other enquiries coming in for that expedition. Glad to see that I'm still top of Google for Ama (although it would be great to be above Wikipedia as well) and highly placed for the B&B. No doubt that will change somewhat whilst I'm away but that's the least of my worries!

Off to talk to a class tomorrow about Everest for their big write. Last time I was there I mentioned that we had a guy along who we all called Gandalf (on account of his big beard). When the kids were picked up one of them told his mum 'We had a talk from a man who went to the top of Everest and there was a wizard.'
'No, Johnny, I think you mean there was a blizzard.'
'No mum, it was a wizard.'
'Actually, Johnny, the word will have been "Blizzard."'
'NO, THERE WAS A WIZARD.'
'Don't be so rude and stop shouting please and listen to your mum when she's trying to tell you that the word you mean is blizzard.'
'WIZARD!!!!!.'
'DON'T YOU SHOUT AT ME - IT IS A BLIZZARD.'

Anyway you can see where a conversation like that is going and little boy ended up in floods of tears and refused to back down whereas Mum knew best and kept correcting him. It all became so distraught that the next morning she went in to ask the teacher what on earth had been going on. 'Ahhh, well Johnny, I'm really sorry for shouting at you last night but I just hadn't understood that there was a guy who looked like a wizard on Everest.'

I wonder what I could sneak in tomorrow to cause more mayhem?.?.?

L'enclume

2011-03-12T10:52:00.000-08:00

Just had the most awesome night out at L'enclume - a michelin starred restaurant in Cartmell. Ended up having a 15 course meal. A toptastic night out and the first night in six months that Ali and I have woken up in the same bed together because our totally awesome friend Ann had the kids for the night.

Highly recommended for amazing food, great ambience and really efficient service and presentation. If you want to learn how to put on a show then go here.

A nice relaxing coffee this morning (again, sans kids), a trip over Windermere on the ferry and then collected the children and now we're home. And to top it all we also have guests in the B&B.

Took another 2 bookings for Ama Dablam so that expedition is shaping up nicely and still plenty of others showing interest. Probably not going to be quite as busy as last year but then that was a bumper trip. But delighted that I have so many people on board already (along with 4 for Island Peak as well).

Outbound freight

2011-03-11T06:21:00.001-08:00

Just delivered our freight down to Manchester Airport. The trip's been a long time coming and suddenly it's there on the horizon.

It's our 7th anniversary just after I get back and rather disappointingly I have discovered it's the anniversary of wool and copper! WT? I was rather hoping for something more exciting. I wonder whether Ms Summers has an alternative list? Any suggestions?

Anyway never mind that there's a whole load to fit in between now and then.

Tick tock tick tock ... 3 weeks and counting

2011-03-10T04:02:00.001-08:00

Departing for Everest 3 weeks today! Yip yip.

Lots to fit in between now and then - whether it be planning, purchasing and training or catching up with my family and making sure that everything is place for the B&B to run smoothly whilst I am away. We're delighted to have been able to appoint Suzanna as a member of staff to run the B&B in my absence.

This has been a week of meetings and liaising with people. Have had chats with other Everest summiteers and leaders asking for top tips and handy hints and thankfully no advice has come to light that hasn't really been covered or thought of already (apart from a tip about the oxygen system. One of my friends had a client who had a freak occurrence that compromised his O2 supply so we've got the preventative measure for that in place).

The team now comprises myself and 5 for the Big E along with our trusty Base Camp manager. Her boyfriend is accompanying us trekking for 4 weeks, 2 friends of one of the climbing team are trekking for 2 weeks and then there are 3 folk for Island Peak as well. So 13 of us in total.

Meanwhile the preparation for the November Ama Dablam expedition is also underway with 5 people signed up for that trip and 4 for Island Peak as well.

And then there are the usual array of guests booked in to the B&B and a smattering of climbing days in the diary for summer as well. Looks like it's going to be a busy year again.

I wonder whether I'll be to knackered to have another go at The Bob Graham Round ...

Advertising on the Internet

2011-02-02T05:43:00.000-08:00

Well it's that time of year when the phone starts ringing for the dreaded advertising sales pitch. For some reason there's a lady working for a company who just won't take no for an answer. But thankfully today may have been the nail in the coffin.

'Hi can I speak to Tim please?'

'Speaking.'

'Hi it's Tina from xxxxxxx.co.uk and I was wondering if you'd managed to have a look a the e mails I've sent you recently?'

(I've had 4 e mails most of which had spelling mistakes in them, the hyperlinks don't work or they lead to a page where the video won't load - and they want to take control of my website??!!)

'Yes, thanks. But we are fine. We are on page 1 or high on page 2 of Google for most keyword combinations. We're also generally on page 1 of Yahoo and Bing as well. If not then high on page 2.'

'But most people don't go to page 2.'

'Well I do seem to be getting plenty of hits and our analytics page is returning plenty of positive feedback that we are getting viewed for a whole variety of search terms.'

'But people don't go to page 2. You need to be on page 1.'

'We are on page 1 or high on page 2 of Google for most keyword combinations and as I said we do seem to be getting hits even when we are on pages 2 and 3. I guess that people are willing to shop around a little to find a site they like the look of. It's a very personal time staying at a B&B. It's not like buying white goods or a phone. And in the summer months we'd struggle to accept any more bookings anyway so we are fine for advertising thanks.'

'Well I couldn't find you on Page 1 of Google.'

'It depends on the search terms obviously. What did you type in?'

'I searched for "Bed and breakfast in Ambleside" and you don't appear even on page 4 or 5.'

'We're in Keswick. But thanks for your time.'

'Oh!'

Hadrian's Wall (V,5) on The Ben

2011-01-30T10:08:00.000-08:00

Looking up at Hadrian's Wall and Point 5 Gully

Well what a great day out we had on Thursday. Checked the forecast on Tuesday, texted a few folk and the next afternoon 4 of us were northwards bound. Arrived at The North Face car park, set up the tent, slept and woke at 5 to be on the trail for 6.

Now it's obviously been a while since I was last on The Ben because I'd never used the new direct path to the dam and the much improved path across the Allt a'Mhuillin. We got to the CIC hut in an unbelievable 1 hour 20 mins (as opposed to the 1hr 40 to 1hr 50 it used to take). We were maybe the 3rd or 4th team in and mooched over to Observatory Gully to find that it was empty. Stu and I had both done Point 5 already (which looked great and from the styrofoam snow we were walking on was probably in better than perfect condition).

Stu leading the first pitch

Had a look around the corner at Indicator Wall but everything there had been stripped by the extensive thaw so we dropped back down to Hadrian's Wall. On first sight it looked like it may be a bit thin on the middle slab of the first pitch and the corner pitch looked blank but, as is often the case with winter, it's only when you are there that you realise what it's actually like.

Basically the ice was in great condition (most screws up to the hilt) and the neve and snow ice was perfect. 3 pitches of graded climbing, a couple of pitches of easy going neve and then a further 2 pitches of graded stuff to finish on - both of which were absolutely awesome.

Reached the summit by about 1.30 and sat around for a while enjoying the spectacular views from Skye and Rhum all the way across to The Cairngorms. Looking south most of the peaks were shrouded in clouds or just sticking out above them, and looking east, west and northwards there wasn't a cloud in sight - The Ben was almost the dividing line between cloud and clear.

Mooched over to No4 gully and were back down at the car park by 5 and home for 10.30. A fantastic and unforgettable 30 hours. A real opportunistic grab.

Well done us!

Busy busy

2011-01-19T10:05:00.000-08:00

4 enquiries, 2 phone calls and 2 deposits for Ama Dablam 2011, a deposit for Island Peak this Spring, 2 enquiries about Island Peak for Nov this year, 2 calls about Everest (which is now 10 weeks and 2 hours away) and a B&B reservation.

And then another booking for Ama, another enquiry for Ama November 2012 (that now makes 10 on next year's mailing list already), another 2 rooms booked at the B&B, another Island Peak / Ama enquiry and arranged a meeting for another Ama client next week.

Various e mails and calls about gear / logistics / medicines / itineraries for Everest / Island Peak and Ama Dablam.

Booked our hotel in Kathmandu for the beginning of April as well as our teahouse accommodation for when we start the trek in to Everest.

Don't get me wrong - I'm not complaining. But with my 2 finger typing what a day.

Camp 2.9 on Ama. All the 2 finger typing seems worth it when you get to camp up here.

Everest Training

2011-01-14T10:34:00.000-08:00

Everest Training in Scotland

Just had the most amazing week in Scotland with my team for Everest. We had fantastic weather, awesome snow and ice conditions and a great group. Mountain days, climbing days, crampon and ice axe work, jumaring, ladder training and walking around with masks on - not to mention generally getting to know one another and building the all important team dynamics.

Topping out on the first day

The essence of the Scottish training week was to be far better prepared as a group, and as individuals, for the forthcoming expedition. We achieved far more than we could have hoped for - partly due to the most amazing snow and ice conditions.

Kicking steps up solid neve

Smiles all round

Doesn't look as cold and windy as it was - MWIS reckoned on -25 windchill

Thankfully we had reasonably knarly weather when we were on mountain days and excellent conditions on the climbing days.

Sun and fat ice on Lurchers

Lurchers was a particularly great day with big fat ice and sunshine for the whole of the ascent followed by a great descent back down to the car. When we were on the Mess of Pottage (on quite a busy day (well it was a Saturday)) we managed to avoid the crowds by picking our way up between Hidden Chimney and Jacob's Left Edge.

Awesome neve and rime in Sneacdha

Towards the end of the week we changed the emphasis entirely to Everest specific training (although everything we did throughout the week was essential training for the job) and transferred our thoughts to jumaring up ropes, crossing ladders and wearing gas masks. I'd realised that whilst it was good to have the group analyse the Top Out masks we will be using (identifying pros and cons and suggesting modifications) that unless they are attached to the oxygen supply they don't really offer the feeling of restricted airflow and noise that we will be experiencing. So ... I managed to procure 8 army respirators from eBay and other sources and we donned them, under the cover of darkness, to wander around in the snow at night. Thankfully we weren't seen by anyone on the hill otherwise we might have sparked some kind of security scare - mind you the people just settling down to sleep in their car at The Sugar Bowl car park did give us some very strange looks.

Jumar practice with big gloves on

Ladder work - a very useful session

Walking round with army gas masks on.

Slightly bizarre but perhaps the best bit of the week for

taking away yet another unknown factor of the expedition.

All in all a week that far surpassed everyone's expectations and has undoubtedly made us a better prepared and far more professional looking outfit.

Meanwhile I also received 9 bookings for the B&B, 2 deposits for Ama Dablam 2011, 3 enquiries for Ama Dablam 2012, a summer climbing booking, 2 deposits for Island Peak in Spring and 2 enquiries for Island Peak in autumn.

Here's to a busy year,

Scotland

2011-01-08T14:54:00.001-08:00

Having an absolutely awesome time in Scotland training my team for our forthcoming Everest expedition. Conditions are brilliant and the team are great.

Our extended family

2010-12-14T14:16:00.000-08:00

I forgot to mention - on the way in and out to and from Ama Dablam my friend Tashi at Ama Dablam Lodge had mentioned that a friend of hers had lost her husband in the 2006 avalanche on Ama. Anyway I agreed to meet Sheeta Putti and she is just such a delightful lady. She has 3 children and the youngest is 4 - so has grown up without a father. The older 2 are 12 and 15 and are at boarding school in Kathmandu.

Anyway it turns out that the company that Mingma Nuru Sherpa had been working for gave a one off payment of Rs40,0000 (around £3,000) as compensation and she hasn't heard from them since. Mingma was obviously the wage earner and guess what, they don't have life assurance policies out there.

So the long and the short of it is that we are now sponsoring her 4 year old. It's pretty cool as I'd been racking my brain trying to think of a scheme or charity to get involved with - particularly something in The Khumbu. But everything is so well set up there already and I don't just want to end up giving a bunch of money to an organisation that is actually doing alright anyway.

Sheeta, Tashi and Tashi's sister.

So there you have it - some proceeds from all future Ama Dablam Expeditions will be going to help and support a family who have lost their husband and father. It so happens that Mingma was also a cousin and brother of Nyamgal and Germi who I have worked with many times on Ama. So it's quite poignant really.

Recent Ama Dablam post

2010-11-26T22:18:00.000-08:00

Just back to Kathmandu after a very successful trip to Ama Dablam. Unfortuntaley I wasn't able to keep the Blog updated so I am copying the posts retrospectively.

28th Oct

Free drinks in 1st class may be fantastic, but the train's a little rocky round the corners and I've managed to spill mine all over my trousers. I can now look forward to travelling for the next 19 hours smelling like a well known cheap brand of coffee granules. Hmmm, NICE!

29th Oct

They have stopped giving frequent flyers an extra 10kg baggage allowance. Aaaarrrgghh! Beat a hasty retreat and repacked. Looked rather strange going through security wearing 3 pairs of trousers, 2 pairs of insoles and 3 wicky tops under my shirt. Nearly passed out.

Managed to convince the Xray staff that the reason I had 72 muesli bars in my laptop case is that I get hungry really quickly. Carry on bag now weighs about 18kg. Trying my best to look nonchalant.

30th Oct

Arrived in Kathmandu! Yip yip. Not sure which I need 1st - a proper shave, a bed or a beer. I guess I'll go to Sam's Bar to mull it over.

Kathmandu - it's bonkers out here. Busiest ever but great to be back. A chap asked if I wanted a shoeshine. I'm wearing sandals. What's he going to do, buff my toenails?

31st Oct

Got our Ama Dablam permit in only 30 mins. This has to be some kind of record.

1st Nov

Got 20 mins free and having my first Mocha since Thurs. Flying to Lukla 06.15 tomorrow!

2nd Nov

Arrived Lukla at 06.55 after the smoothest check in EVER. Met a few friends along the trail - it's good to be back.

3rd Nov

Arrived Namche 11.30 for lunch. Met more friends on the way. Looking forward to seeing Tashi at Kyanjuma. After a coffee & chocolate doughnut at Everest Bakery.

4th Nov

Ama Dablam STOP PRESS. Apparently AC have bolted The Yellow Tower. WTF?

5th Nov

Just arrived at Tengboche monastery. Sat outside at the bakery enjoying coffee & choc doughnuts in the sun before we mooch on to Pangboche.

10th Nov

Slept at ABC last night. Went to Camp 1 with Ian this a.m. & I'm now back in BC eating Jelly Belly jelly beans. They're tasty! I can't see them lasting long.

11th Nov

Bad news - my wet wipes have frozen solid. No more washing for me!

12th Nov

Ama Dablam news - Ian Wade summited at 09.11. He and Jabbu Sherpa made it to the summit in an incredible 4hrs 40mins from Camp 2. They'll be back in BC for tea!

My mistake - Ian made it to the summit of Ama Dablam in 4hrs 25!!! He & Jabbu are now back at Base Camp. A 12hr 20mins round trip Camp 2 - summit - BC.

15th Nov

Ama Dablam - Sean, Paul, Claire, Lucy & Adam going for their 4 day summit bid today. Another team head off 2moro. All camps established & every1 in fine fettle.

Ama Dablam - Sean & Co @ Camp 1 tonight. Michael, Frank, Ian, Phil & Kate heading up there 2moro. Remainder following the day after. Busy busy.

17th Nov

Ama Dablam - 3 folk heading for Camp 2.9, 5 heading for C2, 5 heading for C1 and 2 heading for ABC. Busy busy. Everyone well. Summit news to follow as and when.

18th Nov

Ama Dablam 2 on the way to the summit, 5 on the way to Camp 2.9 & 8 at Camp 1. Hoping for summit news in the next 5 to 6 hours.

Sean summited at 15.20. Should be back at Camp 2.9 imminently. Tomorrow 3 going for the summit tomorrow with Jabbu Sherpa & 6 folk heading to C2 with Lakpa.

19th Nov

Ama Dablam update - Phil summited 13.35 with Frank, Ian & Jabbu following at 14.45. Descending to Camp 2.9 tonight and Base Camp tomorrow. Well done guys!

20th Nov

Shaw & Andy @ C2.9 with Dave & Lakpa expected there imminently - hope 2 summit 2moro. Paul & Toby at ABC on their 5 day summit bid. Remainder heading down to BC.

21st Nov

Shaw, Andy & Lakpa summited at 13.45. Well done guys. Paul & Toby heading to Camp 2 tomorrow.

23rd Nov

Left Base Camp this morning & now at Tashi's eating cheese toasties, drinking Coke and waiting for a hot shower. Bliss.

25th Nov

Paul Lewis summited Ama Dablam yesterday and now it's a wrap. 9 (plus 4 Sherpas) climbed Ama & 7 plus 2 climbed Island Peak. A successful trip me thinks.

Hmmm - arrived Lukla & there haven't been any flights today. Could be mayhem trying to get back to Kathmandu tomorrow. We'll see.

26th Nov

Just arrived back in to Kathmandu from Lukla (nearly didn't get out). Off for a shave, a beer and a steak. And then some more beers.

Excess baggage

2010-10-28T11:33:00.001-07:00

They have stopped giving frequent flyers an extra 10kg baggage allowance. Aaaaarrrrggh!

Beat a hasty retreat and repacked. Went back and weighed in 36 with a different stewardess without her mentioning a thing.

Looked rather strange going through security wearing 3 pairs of trousers, 2 pairs of insoles and 3 wicky tops under my shirt. Nearly passed out.

Managed to convince the staff that the reason I had 72 muesli bars in my laptop case is that I get hungry really quickly.

Carry on bag weighs about 18kg. Doing my best to look nonchalant.

Coffee

2010-10-28T08:50:00.001-07:00

Free drinks on the train when in 1st class is all very well. Unfortunately not the smoothest of journeys so I managed to spill mine on my lap. Now looking forward to the next 19 hours smelling like a brand of well known coffee granules.

Hmmm - NICE!

It's been a while ...

2010-10-22T09:54:00.001-07:00

Well Dear Reader, I have been inundated with a request to update the blog - so you are not the only person out there following the life and musings of Tim Mosedale / Elm Tree Lodge Guest House / Ama Dablam in a week's time / Everest Spring 2011.

So ... a very brief update. We've had a mega busy year in the B&B (only 3 nights in 27 weeks where we haven't had guests in) so it's welcome respite to be approaching the quieter time of year. Max still not sleeping and this adds to the jaded feeling that comes towards the end of the busy period. Well that's strictly not true actually - he has slept through. 3 nights since February.

Having said all that the quieter time of year for the B&B coincides with the busy busy busy lead up to my next Ama Dablam expedition. There's a lot going on this year - with some folk out there trekking in to Island Peak already, some flying next week and then the main party arriving next weekend in KTM. I've been stocking up on food and supplies to take out there (I use a mixture of Western and locally sourced food for the hill) and I've managed to get a few friends and fellow leaders to take some stuff in advance, but I'm now contemplating how to get the remaining 59Kgs of food out on a 40Kg baggage allowance.Managed 89Kgs on a 55Kg allowance a few years back so fingers crossed I'll get everything through without incurring the £27.10/Kg excess.

Best take some clothes too this year - I'll allow myself 3Kg for personal items. I forgot to take anything extra a few years ago - thinking that I had enough supplies in my kit stored at Base Camp. Unfortunately when I opened my barrels the grollies I was anticipating being there weren't, so I had 3 weeks in one pair of undies. Washed them a few times and went commando round Base Camp but even so.

Been clearing out the loft and it's amazing what you find up there. I'd quite forgotten where I'd put all the old useless fleeces and knackered waterproofs I'd accumulated over the years. But the great news is that I have found the 7 pieces of wood with nails hammered in them that I knew I may need some day. Just not quite sure what to do with them - so I guess I;ll keep hold of them for the time being.

Been running quite a bit and had some really great days out - most notably The Fairfield Horseshoe, Grizedale Pike Horseshoe and various other outings up and over Walla / Bleaberry / Blencathra. It's all good training for next year's trip to Everest.

Talking of which we have just booked flights today for The Big E - exciting times.

Hoping to be able to update with news when we are trekking in and again as soon as we leave Base Camp to come home. Watch this space.

Max Mosedale

2010-09-14T01:52:00.000-07:00

Just testing the mobile blogging (yet again). Anyone know how to update via text rather than e mail? Just trying to get set up to send updates back from Nepal. We'll see ...

Photos - how do I upload photos?

2010-09-13T14:52:00.001-07:00

Any ideas how to get photos from iPhone to the Blogging App?

If only life was easier.

It Works!

2010-09-13T14:40:00.001-07:00

Of course it works. Why am I surprised? I'm not if the truth be told.

Now .... How do I send Blog updates with photos from Ama Dablam Base Camp ...???

Mobile Blogging

2010-09-13T14:37:00.001-07:00

Just a quick tester to check out the blogger mobile site. Tried online earlier to mo avail but managed to find the handy (and free) iPhone App. Here goes ...

Another phone conversation

2010-08-28T13:43:00.000-07:00

'Hi I'm calling from the Winchester Echo and we're doing a feature on The Lake District and '

'Sorry to interrupt - are you trying to sell me something?'

'No, no. Anyway we are doing this great feature about The Lake District and in particular we are targeting Keswick as a destination market town and '

'Are you trying to sell me advertising or editorial space?'

'No, not at all. Anyway we are going to run the feature next week in time for the August Bank Holiday and '

'Well I'm sorry but it's a bit late as we are full already for the August Bank Holiday. Sorry - but are you trying to sell me something? Advertising or column space?'

'No, no. Anyway we are sure that even if people from our area don't come for the August Bank Holiday that they will remember the piece for any future visits and '

'So how does this affect me? Are you asking me to advertise?'

'No, no. But anyway there is a tremendous circulation of our paper and it not only '

'Sorry to ask again but is this going to cost me money?'

'No, no. And we have a very loyal following and '

'Is this going to cost me money?'

'No, no, not at all. Anyway we are running the feature and have a limited number of spaces available for '

'Sorry to interrupt and ask yet again but is this going to cost me money?'

'Err, yes. But here's the deal there are only '

'Sorry, no thanks.'

'But it's a tremendous offer and you '

'Can I just ask how you found us?'

'Well you are on page one of Google for "Bed and Breakfast in Keswick" and I thought that .... ahh, I see, do you think that maybe I ought to target people on, say, page 3 or 4?'

'That could be a good move.'

'Cheers.'

'Not at all.'

Phone calls

2010-08-27T11:54:00.000-07:00

Well dear reader it has been a busy few weeks and it's all a bit of a blur again - one day rolls inexorably in to the next with no days off and no such thing as a weekend. It's busy busy busy - hence the lack of updates.

But I thought I would let you in on a few of the slightly eclectic phone calls I have had recently.

First there was the chap who called to say that he wasn't a climber, had no experience of mountaineering and had never been in a tent - but he's good in the gym - so was it possible for him to come and climb Everest? Not with my group was the reply. Why not? was the answer. So ... after outlining that it is better suited to people who are independent climbers and mountaineers in their own right and that it is a serious knarly place and that if you are a liability to yourself then you are a liability to everyone around you he proudly went on to tell me that he reckoned that he and a few mates might just rock up in Kathmandu, get a permit and that they'll see us at Base Camp. Jolly good.

Next there was another chap (sorry guys - it is generally men rather than women that I hear these crazy ideas from) who had trekked to Everest Base Camp, had ascended Kala Pattar with no problems and, having seen Ama Dablam, wanted to have a go. Again I refer the honourable gentleman to my previous answer.

A while back I had an enquiry about rock climbing. We chatted for at least 30 minutes and I had his e mail address to send the application form as well as debit card details to confirm the booking. We were just saying our goodbyes when he asked 'does it matter that I only have one arm?'

And lastly I have had numerous calls from people such as 'The No1 SEO Company,' or 'The UK Search Engine Optimization Website,' or other such drivel, telling me that they can get me not only on page one of Google but, in some instances, to number one on Google - in the organic listings. Now this creases me up every time because I generally get straight on to the computer whilst we are chatting, type in 'Web SEO' or 'Search Engine Optimization' in to Google and start searching - for them. Whilst we are chatting I casually drop in that we are already on Page 1 or high on Page 2 (and indeed for some key phrases I am No1) and they answer 'well I typed in Hotels in Cumbria and I haven't found you' (interesting - how come you managed to get my details to call me then?). Anyway having pointed out that we are a) not a hotel and b) we aren't just 'in Cumbria' and that c) a person would probably search for 'B&Bs in Keswick,' or 'Keswick B&B accommodation' or other more relevant Keswick accommodation based search phrases I then ask why I haven't found them ... after 14 pages of searching on Google.

At this point the line usually goes dead.

The Bob - update

2010-08-07T11:50:00.000-07:00

Bob Graham Round update - 8 mins up on Skiddaw and then 10 mins down by the top of Blencathra. Very difficult and slippy going underfoot along with increasingly poor visibility. 25 mins down by Threlkeld with a good bash on the ankle where I managed to pop it straight in to a rocky crevice on the way down. Oops. At this stage eternal optimism seemed to be the way ahead and, rationalising it, I figured if I made the pit stops 5 mins less and kept the pace going I'd still be in with a slim chance. Especially as I was on a 23 1/2 hour schedule - so there was another 30 minutes!

So my fantastic support crew (who had just been running with me for 4 and a half hours in the wet) pandered to my every need for 10 mins and then I set off on Leg 2 in to the ever decreasing visibility and ever wetter weather with a new support team (1 of whom had just joined at 5 that afternoon because my original navigator had tweeked his back).

Anyway, awful conditions - but, well, you just get on with it. Very difficult nav and lost a bit of time here and there with little purchase in places on the muddy terrain. In fact there were a couple of spots where you would have thought we were wading ankle deep across rivers and streams.

Result was I ended up being 1hr 25 mins down by Dunmail. Sore ankle playing up and the prospect of trying to claw back all that time (in what was not a favourable forecast as it happens) meant that it was knocked on the head. A difficult decision but now that I am hobbling around like Kaiser Soze - the right one.

A big up thank you to the folk that ran with me and my apologies to everyone else who had volunteered to help that I didn't end up needing your services.

Great views coming down of Seat Sandal though when the cloud lifted.

Hey ho.

The Bob

2010-08-05T06:09:00.000-07:00

Just been stocking up on pain medication in anticipation of getting very sore knees when attempting The Bob Graham Round starting tomorrow night. Should I really be doing this I ask myself? I'll let you know how it goes on Sunday (or whenever I manage to get out of bed and downstairs). Then again the beauty of WiFi is that I can update from the comfort of my own bed.

Other news - was out on the hill with Pete Sidwell last week for his forthcoming tv series on Channel 4 throughout Sept. Didn't manage to get the B&B mentioned (but maybe slipped in Ama Dablam and Everest - we'll see what the editing team do! Then the kids were being filmed as well for the same series at a tea party.

Guests coming and going and we've been non stop. Last time we didn't have anyone in the B&B was for one night on 8th July and before that was May 26th! One day off in 10 weeks. Hmmm. Tough working for yourself but then it has to be done. And juggled with everything else. Talking of which we will be looking for a member of staff or a couple to run the B&B next April - Jun. Let me know if you are interested.

Apparently the Chubb Fire Extinguisher man only services 15 Bed and Breakast properties in Keswick.

Bob Graham Leg 2 / Filming Channel 4

2010-07-29T14:24:00.000-07:00

Tuesday I was out with Stuart Williams and his mate in pretty awful conditions for a pootle along the Helvellyn Range from Threlkeld to Dunmail. Now Stuart certainly knows the route intimately and I'm sure he'll be very successful in his sub 22 hour attempt. I wasn't feeling too good so sat down as the sun came out below Seat Sandal and missed out Fairfield.

Out yesterday on Skiddaw filming with Pete Sidwell for his cookery / travel series which is due to be aired throughout September on Channel 4. It was better than Monday and turned out to give some quite atmospheric and moody conditions - which hopefully will be captured and stitched together to give a half decent show.

Busy busy in the Bed and Breakfast with a full house. Shanee and co leaving mega early tomorrow - but as they are regulars I'll be up to give them breakfast and see them off.

Then 3 rooms to turn around whilst looking after 2 children! Hmmm. A tricky one but I have a cunning plan....

Now - where was I?

2010-07-26T13:26:00.000-07:00

Okey dokey - bit of a long time since the last post but then it is officially the silly season. B&B work is now absolutely mad and all time consuming. Juggling it all together with the family and our other jobs is a tough act - especially as we don't want to compromise the B&B, our guests or our quality of life (hence the long time since the last post).

Anyway it looks possible (possible not probable) that our BGR attempt will be next week. Weather looks like it may be ok for next Mon / Tues - we'll see nearer the time. Unfortunately this also coincides with a frantically busy week with lots of room changes at the guesthouse as well as Ali being at work. But we'll get there. Somehow.

Talking of the weather, I was supposed to be out filming with Pete Sidwell today for his Channel 4 series that is being aired in September. Totally and utterly clagged in with virtually zero vis so we've postponed until Wednesday.

Out tomorrow with a chap to do Leg 2 of the BGR. Strangely enough the way we got in touch is when he made a booking at the Bed and Breakfast because of The Bob connection. So we got chatting (and I must say it sounds like he's done a lot more training than me) and he's coming up tomorrow - so we'll share lifts and have a mooch on the hill. I was supposed to be out on Leg 3 last Sunday but contracted man flu (it was a serious bout - lasted over 48 hours) and so decided against it. Not sure which was the worst prospect - making myself a little iller due to the exertion, or sounding croaky for Pete Sidwell's filming episode.

So it's now busy busy with B&B change overs as guests come and go, final preparations for The Bob not to mention the final tweeks and changes for the Ama Dablam trip. With Ali at work for the rest of the week it's going to be a busy one and then out on the hill with a group on Saturday and a slide show on Sunday. Just taken 3 bookings today for guests coming in the next fortnight and have a few climbing bookings coming up over the next few weeks as well.

Still ... I wouldn't have it any other way.

Oh, yes, joined the 21st century with an iPhone 4! Fantastic.

'The Bob' is a go

2010-07-14T09:31:00.003-07:00

Have just announced intentions to have a crack at The Bob Graham Round sometime at the beginning of August. Rather than setting a fixed date now, and being at the mercy of the weather, I've contacted my potential supporters, I'll find out their availability to do various legs according to which day of the week and what commitments they have, and then once I have a better idea about the weather I'll get in touch with everyone and set the date accordingly.

Went out on Blencathra with Stuart (the chap who'll be having a go on the same day as me) and we hoofed it up to the summit in 1hr 10mins. Then we went back along towards Great Calva to suss out the line from the river crossing and then hung a left and dropped across to the Skiddaw House track and back across the top of Latrigg. A good little run out but I realised as I got to the top of Latrigg that all I'd had that day was a left over rasher of bacon for breakfast and a spoonful of baked beans for lunch. It had been a bit of a busy day in the B&B and I'd had Max to look after and, well, I just ran out of time for breakfast and then forgot to have lunch. Nearly, but not quite, bonked - so a very valuable lesson. Good to know that I could still run on empty and took on the importance of keeping the fuel tank topped up.

Just been up Clough Head this afternoon in between and amongst the rain showers. Not sure whether to tackle it up the steeper more direct line or the less steep but longer ascent. The difference amounts to about 300m / 4 minutes - not a lot but if you lose 4 mins here and 4 mins there it could make all the difference between success and failure.

The beauty of mobiles and the internet! Managed to take 3 calls and a booking while out on the hill. Brilliant. Not like the old days where the B&B owner had to be in to get the passing trade. Or when people used to get the tourist brochure, ring the B&B, make a booking, send a letter and a cheque to secure the reservation and get a letter in reply to confirm the booking. Nowadays people can book at any time of the day or night online - which is why we offer a discount for internet bookings.

We have tweeked the B&B website and gone for a brand new, cleaner look with bigger photos and a slightly different layout. Any feedback much appreciated.

Still getting Ama Dablam enquiries but have unfortunately had to close the trip. Not so much because of the number of people that I am looking after but more that there could be a potential logjam if everyone is on the same schedule and trying for the summit round about the same time. The camps are rather bijou to say the least:

Camp 2 on Ama Dablam - just enough room for 5 or 6 tents

Camp 2.9 on Ama Dablam - even less room. 3 tents at a push.

The problem comes when trying to get more people than the available tent spaces up and down over a two or three day period - especially when relying on tent spaces being vacated for the next wave of people on their summit push only to find that the people who are already there are perhaps too pooped, or conditions haven't been suitable, for them to descend.

Anyway all being well we'll have a great time out there and hopefully we'll be reporting back with lots of summit successes. Watch this space.

In the meantime I'll be out on the hill in a couple of weeks with Pete Sidwell who is filming with a company called Liberty Bell for a forthcoming series that he's managed to get picked up for showing on Channel 4 throughout the whole of September. Fingers crossed for some good weather. Not sure how the day will pan out, or how it's going to fit in to the structure of the programme, but I'm delighted to be working with him. Apparently he's been doing an awesome job and it will be good to see the end result.

For the time being ... 'That's all Folks.'

Helping someone to get out of the V Diff rut

2010-06-28T08:53:00.000-07:00

Nearly overslept having been up most of the night with Max. Sprinted through breakfast prep and got everything sorted in time. Tidied rooms whilst breakfast was on and then met my client for climbing.

He'd e mailed saying that he wanted to get out of the rut of always doing V Diffs. So we had a quick chat and he seemed totally up for an adventure. So...

Started with Troutdale Pinnacle a magnificent 7 pitch route graded Severe. We were back down at the bottom by 11.45 which is pretty impressive really. He was so obviously a very competent second and comfortably followed every pitch without hesitation.

Down to Shepherd's cafe for lunch and then headed up Little Chamonix - a great 3 pitch V Diff which, whilst is still arguably in the V Diff rut, is just such a great route that it's difficult to walk past it without doing it if there isn't a queue.

Over to Ardus - another cracking good route. 3 contrasting pitches at Hard Severe. Thoroughly enjoyable.

Next we cranked it up a tad and did CDM - a very short but reasonably sustained VS. And then we were on Fisher's Folly - a fantastic 2 pitch VS which we just finished as the rain came in. All in all a great day and hopefully a suitably inspiring experience.

Now I just have to empty the dishwasher, process an internet booking for the B&B, arrange an instructor for the weekend when the B&B clients are up for a bit of climbing, catch up with the family, lay the tables, maybe get in a bit of en suite cleaning action, update the website ......

A bit of a blur

2010-06-25T05:25:00.000-07:00

Well the season is well under way and it's that time of year when one day virtually merges in to another and it all gets a bit blurred at the edges.

Apart from the usual parental duties of entertaining the kids / taking to and collecting from school / feeding / bathing / reading etc etc this is being delicately juggled together with the B&B / work / getting supplies / climbing courses / e mails / Ama Dablam enquiries / a bit of running and last but not least life in general.

It's been a hectic few weeks with various days out on the hill with walking groups / climbing clients and a navigation course. Also presented a slide show down at The Moot Hall on Sunday straight after breakfast for a group who are off to Everest Base Camp in 2012. The house has been busy busy and most days we are invariably hoovering late afternoon or emptying the dishwashers and laying tables in the evening having been too busy to get them done throughout the day.

I now have 24 people on my Ama Dablam mailing list for 2010 (and over 30 already enquiring about 2011). It's been an incredibly busy year for enquiries and bookings and this is now taking a major chunk of my time. I won't be taking 24 on the hill - but there are at least 4 sub groups with 5 or 6 different itineraries developing. I can see why the big companies don't entertain individuals who want to do their own thing and develop their own agendas. But I guess that's where I am offering something different which is perhaps why this year is proving to be so successful.

Have now got a definite 4 for Everest Spring 2011 and have just gone live with the new website. I've decided to place a small discreet advert just to try and make sure I get a couple more otherwise the trip is in jeopardy if someone cancels. But intrinsically it looks like it's a definite goer. Watch this space.

Have managed to get on to the front page of The Keswick Reminder for the Action for Market Towns Award. Hurrah!

Out on Saturday night to support John Boyle on leg 5 of the BGR.

A cracking good fortnight

2010-06-15T10:15:00.000-07:00

Busy busy busy. A 42.5km / 14 peaks / 8hr 30 mins run the weekend before last (leg 2 of The BGR and then back over the tops to Keswick). Another run this weekend back from Lorton (30km / 9 peaks / 5hr 30mins).

A plethora of bookings coming in for the B&B. Yet another 2 people booked for Ama Dablam this November and a few more enquiries for the expedition (have had to start limiting availability now) but alas a missed opportunity to climb yesterday due to the pants weather (if only I'd been out today).

But then if I'd been out today I wouldn't have been able to attend the Action for Market Towns awards where we received best in the NW for the Fitz Park Play Area.

Saw Jimmy Carr 2 weeks ago and Derren Brown last week at The Sands Centre. Both brilliant acts in their own special and very different ways.

Have had a really busy fortnight in the B&B but have managed to juggle it all together along with the shifts, work, expedition enquiries and kiddie care (along with the usual shopping / getting resupplies / answering e mails / doing laundry / ironing etc). Just about managing to tread water and juggle balls at the same time - although there have been a few en suites being cleaned, or beds made, or tables being laid late in the evenings and early in the mornings just to make sure that it is all kept on top of.

A cracking good week

2010-05-30T10:47:00.000-07:00

Just back from a run over Blencathra - had a great jaunt out and have been reflecting on a great week:

Plenty of bookings coming in for the B&B so the diary is looking quite healthy.

Lots more interest in Ama Dablam - taken 3 bookings and 5 enquiries this week alone, as well as 2 for next year.

Just been told this morning by our guests Mark and Angela that ours is the best breakfast they've ever had in a B&B.

Also received feedback on my Everest summit video "Great video! the best from everest on youtube."

Today is the 5th anniversary of our successful ascent of Everest.

And I've been called a D.I.L.F.

It doesn't get much better than that.

The Bob - Leg 5

2010-05-26T01:43:00.001-07:00

Another frantic day with various e mails and calls to do with Ama Dablam this November, Everest next Spring and bookings for the B&B this summer. Then off to swimming lessons with Grace before popping over to Portinscale to pick up Donald and Kate to support Leg 5 of the BGR.

Drove up to Honister and waited for Chris Scammell who was up on a 20 hour pace. Now for those who aren't in the know it's difficult enough to complete the round in 24 hours let alone shaving 10 or 15% off.

Met a couple of other guys at Honister who'd been seconded in and we got everything ready for Chris' arrival. He looked remarkably chipper considering.

Then the guys who'd just done leg 4 thought that they may as well stay on and so there were 7 of us pegging it up on to Dalehead, over to Hindscarth, across to Robinson and then down off Robinson, through Littletown and back to Keswick. It was a fantastic evening with no need for headtorches until crossing the river. Chris kept up an amazing pace and completed the round in 19hrs 39mins. Even made it to the pub in time for last orders - Hurrah!

Just received a text from him this morning and he can't move!

B&B, scrambling & Ama Dablam - a busy day

2010-05-23T08:32:00.000-07:00

Well ...

up at 06.15 to cook breakfast for our guests who wanted an early start for their mass ascent of Scafell Pike. They have chosen possibly the hottest day of the year so far which is good and bad - great views but a day to get frazzled.

Cleared the dining room, loaded the dishwashers, had a quick breakfast and managed to fit in a coffee with Ali at Good Taste before heading down the valley to meet some clients for scrambling. Mooched in to Langstrath and had a perfect day on Cam Crag Ridge before heading back across Bessy Boot and down Big Stanger Ghyll.

Back home, took 2 bookings for the B&B and answered a couple of e mails to do with rock climbing and the forthcoming expedition to Ama Dablam (the enquiries just keep coming in this year) and then helped sort the kids for bedtime before cracking on with a spot of ironing. Luckily I was saved after about half an hour by Andy and Jon who dropped by to chat about their forthcoming trip to Ama Dablam (thanks for the bottle of wine guys). Talked through a whole load of stuff to do with the trip and put everything in to perspective for them. I think they'll be maxing out the credit cards with a few purchases from Needlesports.

Bed at midnight so an 18 hour day.