Hadrian's Wall (V,5) on The Ben

Looking up at Hadrian's Wall and Point 5 Gully

Well what a great day out we had on Thursday. Checked the forecast on Tuesday, texted a few folk and the next afternoon 4 of us were northwards bound. Arrived at The North Face car park, set up the tent, slept and woke at 5 to be on the trail for 6.

Now it's obviously been a while since I was last on The Ben because I'd never used the new direct path to the dam and the much improved path across the Allt a'Mhuillin. We got to the CIC hut in an unbelievable 1 hour 20 mins (as opposed to the 1hr 40 to 1hr 50 it used to take). We were maybe the 3rd or 4th team in and mooched over to Observatory Gully to find that it was empty. Stu and I had both done Point 5 already (which looked great and from the styrofoam snow we were walking on was probably in better than perfect condition).

Stu leading the first pitch

Had a look around the corner at Indicator Wall but everything there had been stripped by the extensive thaw so we dropped back down to Hadrian's Wall. On first sight it looked like it may be a bit thin on the middle slab of the first pitch and the corner pitch looked blank but, as is often the case with winter, it's only when you are there that you realise what it's actually like.

Basically the ice was in great condition (most screws up to the hilt) and the neve and snow ice was perfect. 3 pitches of graded climbing, a couple of pitches of easy going neve and then a further 2 pitches of graded stuff to finish on - both of which were absolutely awesome.

Reached the summit by about 1.30 and sat around for a while enjoying the spectacular views from Skye and Rhum all the way across to The Cairngorms. Looking south most of the peaks were shrouded in clouds or just sticking out above them, and looking east, west and northwards there wasn't a cloud in sight - The Ben was almost the dividing line between cloud and clear.

Mooched over to No4 gully and were back down at the car park by 5 and home for 10.30. A fantastic and unforgettable 30 hours. A real opportunistic grab.

Well done us!

Busy busy

4 enquiries, 2 phone calls and 2 deposits for Ama Dablam 2011, a deposit for Island Peak this Spring, 2 enquiries about Island Peak for Nov this year, 2 calls about Everest (which is now 10 weeks and 2 hours away) and a B&B reservation.

And then another booking for Ama, another enquiry for Ama November 2012 (that now makes 10 on next year's mailing list already), another 2 rooms booked at the B&B, another Island Peak / Ama enquiry and arranged a meeting for another Ama client next week.

Various e mails and calls about gear / logistics / medicines / itineraries for Everest / Island Peak and Ama Dablam.

Booked our hotel in Kathmandu for the beginning of April as well as our teahouse accommodation for when we start the trek in to Everest.

Don't get me wrong - I'm not complaining. But with my 2 finger typing what a day.

Camp 2.9 on Ama. All the 2 finger typing seems worth it when you get to camp up here.

Everest Training

Everest Training in Scotland

Just had the most amazing week in Scotland with my team for Everest. We had fantastic weather, awesome snow and ice conditions and a great group. Mountain days, climbing days, crampon and ice axe work, jumaring, ladder training and walking around with masks on - not to mention generally getting to know one another and building the all important team dynamics.

Topping out on the first day

The essence of the Scottish training week was to be far better prepared as a group, and as individuals, for the forthcoming expedition. We achieved far more than we could have hoped for - partly due to the most amazing snow and ice conditions.

Kicking steps up solid neve

Smiles all round

Doesn't look as cold and windy as it was - MWIS reckoned on -25 windchill

Thankfully we had reasonably knarly weather when we were on mountain days and excellent conditions on the climbing days.

Sun and fat ice on Lurchers

Lurchers was a particularly great day with big fat ice and sunshine for the whole of the ascent followed by a great descent back down to the car. When we were on the Mess of Pottage (on quite a busy day (well it was a Saturday)) we managed to avoid the crowds by picking our way up between Hidden Chimney and Jacob's Left Edge.

Awesome neve and rime in Sneacdha

Towards the end of the week we changed the emphasis entirely to Everest specific training (although everything we did throughout the week was essential training for the job) and transferred our thoughts to jumaring up ropes, crossing ladders and wearing gas masks. I'd realised that whilst it was good to have the group analyse the Top Out masks we will be using (identifying pros and cons and suggesting modifications) that unless they are attached to the oxygen supply they don't really offer the feeling of restricted airflow and noise that we will be experiencing. So ... I managed to procure 8 army respirators from eBay and other sources and we donned them, under the cover of darkness, to wander around in the snow at night. Thankfully we weren't seen by anyone on the hill otherwise we might have sparked some kind of security scare - mind you the people just settling down to sleep in their car at The Sugar Bowl car park did give us some very strange looks.

Jumar practice with big gloves on

Ladder work - a very useful session

Walking round with army gas masks on.

Slightly bizarre but perhaps the best bit of the week for

taking away yet another unknown factor of the expedition.

All in all a week that far surpassed everyone's expectations and has undoubtedly made us a better prepared and far more professional looking outfit.

Meanwhile I also received 9 bookings for the B&B, 2 deposits for Ama Dablam 2011, 3 enquiries for Ama Dablam 2012, a summer climbing booking, 2 deposits for Island Peak in Spring and 2 enquiries for Island Peak in autumn.

Here's to a busy year,

Scotland

Having an absolutely awesome time in Scotland training my team for our forthcoming Everest expedition. Conditions are brilliant and the team are great.

Our extended family

I forgot to mention - on the way in and out to and from Ama Dablam my friend Tashi at Ama Dablam Lodge had mentioned that a friend of hers had lost her husband in the 2006 avalanche on Ama. Anyway I agreed to meet Sheeta Putti and she is just such a delightful lady. She has 3 children and the youngest is 4 - so has grown up without a father. The older 2 are 12 and 15 and are at boarding school in Kathmandu.

Anyway it turns out that the company that Mingma Nuru Sherpa had been working for gave a one off payment of Rs40,0000 (around £3,000) as compensation and she hasn't heard from them since. Mingma was obviously the wage earner and guess what, they don't have life assurance policies out there.

So the long and the short of it is that we are now sponsoring her 4 year old. It's pretty cool as I'd been racking my brain trying to think of a scheme or charity to get involved with - particularly something in The Khumbu. But everything is so well set up there already and I don't just want to end up giving a bunch of money to an organisation that is actually doing alright anyway.

Sheeta, Tashi and Tashi's sister.

So there you have it - some proceeds from all future Ama Dablam Expeditions will be going to help and support a family who have lost their husband and father. It so happens that Mingma was also a cousin and brother of Nyamgal and Germi who I have worked with many times on Ama. So it's quite poignant really.

Recent Ama Dablam post

Just back to Kathmandu after a very successful trip to Ama Dablam. Unfortuntaley I wasn't able to keep the Blog updated so I am copying the posts retrospectively.

28th Oct

Free drinks in 1st class may be fantastic, but the train's a little rocky round the corners and I've managed to spill mine all over my trousers. I can now look forward to travelling for the next 19 hours smelling like a well known cheap brand of coffee granules. Hmmm, NICE!

29th Oct

They have stopped giving frequent flyers an extra 10kg baggage allowance. Aaaarrrgghh! Beat a hasty retreat and repacked. Looked rather strange going through security wearing 3 pairs of trousers, 2 pairs of insoles and 3 wicky tops under my shirt. Nearly passed out.

Managed to convince the Xray staff that the reason I had 72 muesli bars in my laptop case is that I get hungry really quickly. Carry on bag now weighs about 18kg. Trying my best to look nonchalant.

30th Oct

Arrived in Kathmandu! Yip yip. Not sure which I need 1st - a proper shave, a bed or a beer. I guess I'll go to Sam's Bar to mull it over.

Kathmandu - it's bonkers out here. Busiest ever but great to be back. A chap asked if I wanted a shoeshine. I'm wearing sandals. What's he going to do, buff my toenails?

31st Oct

Got our Ama Dablam permit in only 30 mins. This has to be some kind of record.

1st Nov

Got 20 mins free and having my first Mocha since Thurs. Flying to Lukla 06.15 tomorrow!

2nd Nov

Arrived Lukla at 06.55 after the smoothest check in EVER. Met a few friends along the trail - it's good to be back.

3rd Nov

Arrived Namche 11.30 for lunch. Met more friends on the way. Looking forward to seeing Tashi at Kyanjuma. After a coffee & chocolate doughnut at Everest Bakery.

4th Nov

Ama Dablam STOP PRESS. Apparently AC have bolted The Yellow Tower. WTF?

5th Nov

Just arrived at Tengboche monastery. Sat outside at the bakery enjoying coffee & choc doughnuts in the sun before we mooch on to Pangboche.

10th Nov

Slept at ABC last night. Went to Camp 1 with Ian this a.m. & I'm now back in BC eating Jelly Belly jelly beans. They're tasty! I can't see them lasting long.

11th Nov

Bad news - my wet wipes have frozen solid. No more washing for me!

12th Nov

Ama Dablam news - Ian Wade summited at 09.11. He and Jabbu Sherpa made it to the summit in an incredible 4hrs 40mins from Camp 2. They'll be back in BC for tea!

My mistake - Ian made it to the summit of Ama Dablam in 4hrs 25!!! He & Jabbu are now back at Base Camp. A 12hr 20mins round trip Camp 2 - summit - BC.

15th Nov

Ama Dablam - Sean, Paul, Claire, Lucy & Adam going for their 4 day summit bid today. Another team head off 2moro. All camps established & every1 in fine fettle.

Ama Dablam - Sean & Co @ Camp 1 tonight. Michael, Frank, Ian, Phil & Kate heading up there 2moro. Remainder following the day after. Busy busy.

17th Nov

Ama Dablam - 3 folk heading for Camp 2.9, 5 heading for C2, 5 heading for C1 and 2 heading for ABC. Busy busy. Everyone well. Summit news to follow as and when.

18th Nov

Ama Dablam 2 on the way to the summit, 5 on the way to Camp 2.9 & 8 at Camp 1. Hoping for summit news in the next 5 to 6 hours.

Sean summited at 15.20. Should be back at Camp 2.9 imminently. Tomorrow 3 going for the summit tomorrow with Jabbu Sherpa & 6 folk heading to C2 with Lakpa.

19th Nov

Ama Dablam update - Phil summited 13.35 with Frank, Ian & Jabbu following at 14.45. Descending to Camp 2.9 tonight and Base Camp tomorrow. Well done guys!

20th Nov

Shaw & Andy @ C2.9 with Dave & Lakpa expected there imminently - hope 2 summit 2moro. Paul & Toby at ABC on their 5 day summit bid. Remainder heading down to BC.

21st Nov

Shaw, Andy & Lakpa summited at 13.45. Well done guys. Paul & Toby heading to Camp 2 tomorrow.

23rd Nov

Left Base Camp this morning & now at Tashi's eating cheese toasties, drinking Coke and waiting for a hot shower. Bliss.

25th Nov

Paul Lewis summited Ama Dablam yesterday and now it's a wrap. 9 (plus 4 Sherpas) climbed Ama & 7 plus 2 climbed Island Peak. A successful trip me thinks.

Hmmm - arrived Lukla & there haven't been any flights today. Could be mayhem trying to get back to Kathmandu tomorrow. We'll see.

26th Nov

Just arrived back in to Kathmandu from Lukla (nearly didn't get out). Off for a shave, a beer and a steak. And then some more beers.

Excess baggage

They have stopped giving frequent flyers an extra 10kg baggage allowance. Aaaaarrrrggh!

Beat a hasty retreat and repacked. Went back and weighed in 36 with a different stewardess without her mentioning a thing.

Looked rather strange going through security wearing 3 pairs of trousers, 2 pairs of insoles and 3 wicky tops under my shirt. Nearly passed out.

Managed to convince the staff that the reason I had 72 muesli bars in my laptop case is that I get hungry really quickly.

Carry on bag weighs about 18kg. Doing my best to look nonchalant.