Everest photos No2

Okey dokey, whilst I'm on a roll and have 5 mins to spare here's the 2nd of my expedition photos that I'd like to think says more than the picture shows.

I know that on the face of it it looks like a bunch of people sitting in a tent with boxes of chocolates (and indeed I am suitably chuffed that I managed to get said boxes from the UK all the way out to Everest Base Camp without them being completely trashed).

This was the day after we had arrived at EBC and it was Easter Sunday and, well, like someone said to me last week, you can't buy smiles like that.

This is a group of people who look to me like they are not only pleased to have received that little bit extra, but also they look like they are genuinely enjoying the environment and pleased to be there.

Enjoying a tiny bit of luxury at Everest Base Camp

I can categorically say that no one else at Everest Base Camp was enjoying Hello Kitty and Toy Story selection boxes.

I wonder what I'll be taking along next year?

Everest photos explained.

I've been asked a few times about why certain photos are in the videos and uploads I have made or the slide shows that I give. So I thought I'd put pen to paper and explain why certain images from Everest 2011 mean so much to me.

Setting camp in a snow storm

The photo above is a classic example of one that could do with a justification. We'd been trekking in The Khumbu for around 2 weeks by now as part of my 3 week trekking itinerary. My thinking here is that there seems to be little point, if any, in trekking to Everest Base Camp in a mere 8 or 9 days to then sit around with a headache for 5 or 6 days. Our aim was to trek in, taking our time and crossing 3 passes which got progressively higher and to take in the ascent of Pokalde, a peak at around 19,000ft. That meant that we arrived at EBC having already slept higher and that when it came to our first rotation on the hill we were able to go straight through The Khumbu Icefall to Camp 1 and sleep there - thereby cutting down the number of journeys through the icefall. 

Whilst trekking not only was the aim to take time acclimatising but also for the team to get to know each other, to stay healthy by avoiding the pestilent hoards, to get accustomed to the fact that we were in for an 8 or 9 week period of being away and do some last minute sessions to discuss tactics for the expedition including the likes of radio procedures / oxygen protocols / HACE & HAPE / avoidance of frostbite etc etc.

I'd already been careful to cherry pick people who I thought had the right amount of experience, the right approach to expeditioning, be able to get the time off work, have the drive and ambition tempered with due caution and respect for the environment as well as having the right demeanour. All these characteristics together are really important - there's little point being driven if it isn't with due regard for the ever changing conditions. It's all very well being experienced but if you aren't going to get along with people then it's going to be hard work for everyone. If you can get the time off work but haven't got the ability to remain focused on the job at hand then, gradually, you will lose impetus.

And given that the job at hand was attempting Everest then remaining focused, being driven, respecting and adapting to the ever changing conditions, getting along with the rest of the team etc etc all count for quite a bit.

I've seen people in other groups who don't converse in the mess tent! I've seen people from other teams eyeing each other up wondering if the other person is going to compromise their summit bid. I've seen people  on other expeditions alter their ascent profile and push ahead (or drop behind) just to avoid being with another member of the group whom they don't trust or don't get along with. It gets to be dog eat dog and completely undermines not only the enjoyment but also the safety of the entire group.

I obviously can't force people to like each other - but you can usually get a good idea about how the group are going to interact and, generally, people opting for an expedition with the right credentials and mountaineering cv have probably got something about them.

So ... back to my trusty team. We were 2 weeks in to the trip and were trekking from Dingboche to Dingogma before making our way to the Kongma La and our ascent of Pokalde. It started snowing and, whilst this could have been an issue with, say, a group of trekkers, or with a group of clients from a different expedition, it certainly wasn't the case with my lot. It was like water (or snow) off a duck's back.

Generally with, say, a trekking group, the clients would arrive at the next camp in varying states and all pile in to the mess tent. The cook crew would typically be busy getting a brew on and preparing the evening meal and the rest of the staff would busy themselves getting the camp ready. I and some of the Sherpas would typically be making sure that the porters were ok and we'd be helping get the tents up.

Not so my trusty group of potential Everest summiteers. Without my asking they naturally took it upon themselves to start looking out for the porters and lending gloves where necessary. Then once they arrived at camp the clients sent the porters and Sherpas in to the kitchen tent and started putting tents up. Basically they had all diagnosed that there were things that needed to be done and that they were better clothed and equipped to be stood around in the snow erecting tents.

This for me was a pivotal moment where my aim of getting the team bonding was being well and truly achieved. This then later led on to the group helping each other and going the extra mile on the mountain.

What often happens with other groups is that on arriving at, say, Camp 1 a client will sort their own gear out and then have a doze - to then be woken by the their tent partner arriving and trying to get in to the tent and sort their gear out. And then at some stage they may consider getting the stove on. This creates a certain amount of upheaval for both parties and is in no way an efficient approach to managing time. Or when one person has, say, a headache and is feeling a bit off then the other person is not likely to stay up for 45 minutes making a brew for them because the other person had done nothing a few days before.

With my lot we had none of that. The first person just took it upon themselves to sort out their own and their tent partners gear having already got the stove going. To that end there was then less upheaval when the second person arrived and, importantly, they had a brew already on the go and were maintaining their hydration. This then meant that the other person was probably going to be willing to get the cooker on in the morning for breakfast. Not that anyone started counting or keeping a tally ... because that would be utterly divisive.

So there you have it - why this photo means so much to me and the message it portrays.

If you want to find out more about my Everest expeditions then click away.

Busy busy. Ama Dablam and Everest looming on the horizon

As ever we are now busy with the summer season at the B&B with guests a plenty coming and going as well as running various rock climbing and outdoor related courses, putting the finishing touches to the next Ama Dablam expedition (it's full folks - but there's availability for autumn 2013 if you are interested) and starting to put together the next expedition to Everest next Spring (with a new website to boot).

The Ama Dablam group are really well qualified by experience and, having met quite a few of the group now, I have very high hopes that we will not only have a safe, fun trip but that we will have plenty of summit successes as well. Obviously there's a few things that are unknown at this stage but, in reality, the group is made up of people with some very impressive climbing and mountaineering resumes. It's going to be good.

Talking of which I'm busily recruiting the next folk to make up the expedition to Everest next Spring. Thankfully there are no daft phone calls like the one I had last year from people who are not qualified by experience who want to just give it a go. Unbelievably there are people out there who give more thought and ask more questions about the make and model of car they are going to buy than about which side of Everest to climb and which operator to go with.

I'm in talks with people who have excellent mountaineering pedigrees as well as a whole host of other skills and activities that they are involved in - from pro cycling to skiing to the North and South Poles, from prolific climbing and expedition experience to the first female Macedonian (who breezed up Ama Dablam on my trip last autumn). It has the makings of another excellent group with a brilliant pedigree and another superb trip.

Meanwhile I was also lucky enough to receive 6 down suits which I reviewed for their suitability to be used in harsh ever changing conditions and I was somewhat surprised by some of the results. I personally use a Mountain Hardwear jacket and salopette combination which I had been lucky enough for free when I went to Everest in 2005. No two ways about it - it's not because it was free that I am still using it but because it does the job.

So it was with great interest that I was able to compare and contrast the latest suits from Rab, Mountain Hardwear, The North Face, PHD, Marmot and Mountain Equipment. And to my utter amazement there is some gear out there that, if things go pear shaped, will not work and will potentially jeopardise peoples' ability to operate when the going gets real tough with windy, icy, challenging conditions. Have a wee peek at the review to see what I thought.

Meanwhile I have been chatting with folks about our forthcoming trip and, in the process of trying to find some stats for one chap, I stumbled across this very informative page on Alan Arnette's site. It's long been known that The North side of Everest is the harder side (more technical, colder, higher camps respectively, higher mortality rate and much lower success rate) but it was good to see some facts and figures.

Meanwhile what a great Olympic week, eh? Fantastic efforts and results all round and great to see a successful operation of what is a very complex few weeks. And what a fantastic day yesterday with inspirational performances from the ladies at the Velodrome and Innis in the 800m (to name but a few). They just nailed it like it belonged to them. Superb.

Everest - did they do it?

From the title of this update you may well think I'm referring to the Mallory / Irvine 1924 expedition - but in actual fact this is to do with the most recent season. I have been contacted by a chap in Bangladesh asking about the validity of some summit video.

Dear Tim 

first of all takes my salute as you are a Everest Summiter it's a great honor to write to you too.. 

i want to ask a favor by watching a video. recently few of Bangladeshi boys and girl climbed Everest and some people was very critically denying their victory. 

if u have some to spend on my request and watch this 29sec video 

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10150948310291552  made by one of our woman and tell that its really the Summit of Everest? 

thanks for your time to read this email and it would be great if you give some of your time to watch this clip and give your opinion. 

ps- im asking because lots of people in our country and blog are trying to make their claim as fals by comparing the video above with your 360D video on you tube.. 

http://www.somewhereinblog.net/blog/ratulbd/29610723 

Best wishes to you , Have a nice day...

with regards
-- Rasal--



***The Greatest Thing You Will Ever Learn, Is Just to love, and Be Loved in Return***
------------------------------- Proud to be a Bangladeshi---------------------------------------- 

So I replied as follows:

Dear Rasal,

Many thanks for your e mail about your team mates and their ascent of Everest.

I’ve watched the clip a few times and I would be happy to say that it certainly looks to me like the summit of Everest. I know that it isn’t a long video, it is a little bit wobbly and taken at an angle but when you are that high it is sometimes difficult for people to be able to use their cameras with a steady hand especially if it is windy. Anyway, for me the key indicators are at 2 to 3 seconds there is a view looking to the North approach of the summit showing the top of the Kangchung face with the summit in the foreground, at 9 onwards seconds there is a good view of Makalu in the background (it is very distinctive), and then at 26 to 29 there is a shot across to Lhotse and across to Nuptse (again very distinctive looking terrain). It all certainly looks to me like the summit. The only thing I can’t vouch for, of course, is the identities of the people in the video.

I hope that this helps.

My congratulations to them.

Yours sincerely,

Tim Mosedale

Of course the next thing I get is another e mail from another chap who, I think from his tone, is disputing the fact:

Dear Tim,

I am from Bangladesh, recently we are going through a hot debate that whether the Nishat, the first official Everest conquer has really done the summit or not.

On the 26 second it is clearly visible that the LhoTse is much higher than the camera level. And only the lower part of Lhotse is visible there, not the top. Usually all summit vidio shows the LhoTse top as it is the closest and  the most  notable 8000er near Everest.

Those who reject Nishat's climb, claim her video is taken from just above the south col, near the camp 4. 180' view, not the 360'been taken. Because from near the south col when you take 360' view it will clearly show that you are not on the summit.

Nishat’s  video link

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OdX8bKf4gBg

So here's my reply along with some screen grabs I've annotated:

Dear Mufti,

I have had a look again at the summit video and I have compared it with both of my summit videos. Obviously the quality of the claimed summit video is a little bit lacking in clarity but I think that I have managed to make enough comparisons with key features that are only visible from the summit (in particular looking in to Tibet at Lhakpa Ri and the evidence of prayer flags – which are not found anywhere else between the South Col and the summit). The features I have picked out are all recognisable from the summit and I have annotated them accordingly.

Also the fact that Lhotse does not appear in full stature may appear confusing. But if you go out with your own video camera and point it at an angle towards the ground and make a panorama then the resulting video may appear to show things that are lower than you disappear off the top of the screen. I have just tried it in my garden and a section of wall that I am taller than is out of frame giving the illusion that it is taller than me. Tilt the camera to an angle and the result is even more confusing.

I hope that this helps. I also hope that this puts the case to rest but if you have any further questions then please get back in touch.

Yours sincerely,

Tim Mosedale

(the screen grabs below show my two summit panorama videos on the left stopped at similar moments to the claimed video which is on the right. Click each one to see full size)

But my question is, what do YOU think? Have a look at the clip http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OdX8bKf4gBg and tell me what's your opinion. You can compare with my 2005 video and my 2011 video

Makes me chuffed with the quality of my panoramas I must say. Looking to do bigger and better next year when I'll be back with the makings of a very strong team indeed.

Hear from you soon,

Tim

Climbing and stuff

What a fabulous couple of weeks we've had. Great weather, lots of hill days and rock climbing courses, plenty of folk through the B&B, a few more clients for Ama Dablam 2012, some more enquiries for Ama 2013 and another 3 folk added to the mailing list for Everest 2014. Possibly another 8,000er in 2014 as well as some filming work coming up imminently. Busy busy.

Some more climbing coming up soon as well as supporting on Leg 3 of the Bob Graham Round on Saturday morning (4a.m.) carrying water (possibly as much as 7 litres!).

But before that it's the 7th anniversary of our fantastic Everest ascent tomorrow - how time flies. Obviously Everest has been a hot topic just recently (as it is every year) and it is very very sad that the friends and relatives of the deceased have to endure the annual bickerings of the press over whether people should be allowed to go, how did they die, how can others walk past dead bodies etc etc - usually stirred up by people who have never ever been there. Yes it is absolutely tragic, and I'm not going to try and justify the rights and wrongs or try and propose a solution (there probably isn't one) but, as ever, I advocate that climbers and mountaineers attempting Everest should be totally competent and independent in their own right before considering going on the hill.

As an ABSOLUTE minimum I suggest the following - I'd be interested to hear what people think and would gratefully receive any additional information and thoughts, as that can only be of benefit to anyone researching the mountain who may come across my pages. Even if they decide not to go with me, it would be nice to know that they have heeded some of my advice. I look forward to hearing from you.

In the meantime I hope that you enjoy this

Live on the telly

Well of all the years not to be on Everest, 2012 seems to have been the worst season for some time (since we were there in 2005 on The North side no less). A difficult season with challenging conditions which made for some pretty busy summit days as lots of groups got squeezed in to narrow weather windows.

As a result of some folk sadly perishing on Everest Al Jazeera Live asked me to comment on the situation on telly. Having expressed beforehand that I would be happy to comment, but not about the deceased, the first question that was posed to me was about ... the people who had died. Anyway I tried to field that question in the best and most tactful way. Thankfully the guy didn't press that issue and went towards asking what experience is required. You can see the interview here.

Coincidentally I had just updated my site with this very information about skill levels which is available for you to see on my Everest site.

As it happens I'm out this weekend with a chap who has asked exactly that question. He's approaching the whole experience in a pragmatic and responsible way so that he will know what he needs to do between now and then to give him a better chance of not only summiting the mountain safely but also perhaps enjoying the experience as well. As I always point out to people if you are a liability to yourself then you are also a liability to everyone around you. Not only that but you have to ask yourself what you would do if, for some reason, your summit Climbing Sherpa became incapacitated or perhaps he had to go to the aid of another climber. I'm afraid that most people wouldn't know what to do and they, in turn, pose a very real threat to the safety of those around them. Also the Climbing Sherpas can obviously help in many ways, but they can't eat and drink for you, they can't put one foot in front of the other for you, and they can't have the mental determination that will keep you going.

Our approach to, in particular, summit day is a belt and braces approach. Where some companies quote a 1:1 ratio they don't tell people that they and their Climbing Sherpa may be at different places on the mountain on summit day! So, yes, 1 to 1 ratio but hardly any use to the client. With our approach the Climbing Sherpas do lots of preparatory work earlier on in the expedition getting camps established, supplies up the hill and they have some rest days when possible. This is when we, as a group, are able to be moving lower down on the hill independently going to C1 and C2 (hardly the kind of terrain where a Sherpa is required on a 1:1 basis for everyone in the group). However from C2 to C3 and C3 to The South Col the ratio becomes 1:1. In particular on summit day, from The South Col, the client has a Climbing Sherpa by their side. He is constantly checking oxygen levels, the pace, the awareness of the client and encouraging them to eat and, in particular, drink where possible. They are relaying all the necessary information down to Base Camp about oxygen levels and progress so that the team can be monitored. The Climbing Sherpa is also carrying spare oxygen for their client and then there is more spare oxygen besides (as well as a spare mask and regulator amongst the group as well). Not only do they stay with their client all the way back to the South Col but they then escort them down to C2 and then down to BC as well. This isn't hand holding. It isn't being namby pandy - it is a conscientious approach to safely operating an expedition on Everest.

If you are interested in Everest then please don't hesitate to get in touch and I can advise accordingly.

And if you are interested in Ama Dablam, by the way, you'd better hurry as there are only a couple of places left - the 2012 trip is virtually fully subscribed.

In the meantime I sent a clipping in to The News Quiz on Radio 4 which was read out by Jeremy Hardy - I hope that you enjoy it.

Am I being too hard on this chap who wants to climb Everest?

Dear xxxx,

Many thanks for your time earlier this week and I understand where you are coming from with your interest in going to Everest.

On a personal note, however, I am concerned about your lack of experience and, as a result of that, would feel uncomfortable about you being with my group. I know that you plan on going on a climbing course in January but I only recruit people who are already climbers and mountaineers, and have been for some time, and are therefore suitably well qualified by experience. It is only with years of experience that things become second nature.

I know that you feel that you may pick up all the skills very quickly but the mountain demands a lot of respect. If the conditions take a turn for the worse, or if your Climbing Sherpa were to become incapacitated, then you may find yourself on your own and need to be wholly reliant on your own ability to deal with steep terrain in a potentially very demanding and ever changing environment.

I can’t have a situation where more experienced climbers, or my Climbing Sherpas, have their lives, or their summit bid, jeopardised as a result of a very inexperienced member in the group.

It is an all inclusive trip and is already very competitively priced. There are a couple of operators out there who are similarly priced, or slightly cheaper, but generally they don't provide as comprehensive a package. Anyway perhaps they will be open to negotiation - but I’m afraid that I am not.

Yours sincerely,

Tim Mosedale

So come on folks ... am I being too harsh here? Any thoughts?

The worrying aspect is that 'I'm good in the gym' and 'I can learn skills really quickly' just doesn't cut the mustard with me. I find it worrying that some people are completely naive and feel that they can watch a programme, or read a book, and then 'give it a go.' Everest is too big and too serious to just come along and 'give it a go.' It demands a huge amount of respect and it is this approach that will be the undoing of people every year. And unfortunately that then tarnishes the reputation of Everest and undermines the achievement of the climbers and mountaineers out there who do approach it with the right background and mountaineering pedigree.

'It's been my lifelong ambition for the last 5 years.' Well unless you are only 5 years old then that isn't a lifelong ambition. And why haven't you done something about it in the last 5 years then (which, with a bit of hard work and plenty of time on the hill, would possiby be long enough to get yourself suitably well trained by the way).

I am all for people venturing in to the realms of ultra high altitude mountaineering - personally some of the most rewarding experiences that I have had have been on expeditions with like minded people. But start at the beginning and work your way up. I know that not everyone feels that they have the time, or money, to go on loads and loads of trips and work their way up through the ranks. But even so, don't just dive in with Everest. UK hills, UK rock and UK (Scottish) winter all provide fantastic opportunities to further your skill level and be subjected to some ever changing and demanding conditions (as well as some fantastic memorable days out). If you can get to The Alps and maybe an expedition or two as well then this will be a bonus.

But don't turn up to Everest to 'give it a go' and be surprised when it spanks your arse.