Climb Everest in 2016 / 17 / 18 etc with 4 times summiteer Tim Mosedale

Everest Expedition via South Col 2016 / 2017 / 18 / 19 etc

Saturday 17 December 2011

Am I being too hard on this chap who wants to climb Everest?



Dear xxxx,

Many thanks for your time earlier this week and I understand where you are coming from with your interest in going to Everest.

On a personal note, however, I am concerned about your lack of experience and, as a result of that, would feel uncomfortable about you being with my group. I know that you plan on going on a climbing course in January but I only recruit people who are already climbers and mountaineers, and have been for some time, and are therefore suitably well qualified by experience. It is only with years of experience that things become second nature.

I know that you feel that you may pick up all the skills very quickly but the mountain demands a lot of respect. If the conditions take a turn for the worse, or if your Climbing Sherpa were to become incapacitated, then you may find yourself on your own and need to be wholly reliant on your own ability to deal with steep terrain in a potentially very demanding and ever changing environment.

I can’t have a situation where more experienced climbers, or my Climbing Sherpas, have their lives, or their summit bid, jeopardised as a result of a very inexperienced member in the group.

It is an all inclusive trip and is already very competitively priced. There are a couple of operators out there who are similarly priced, or slightly cheaper, but generally they don't provide as comprehensive a package. Anyway perhaps they will be open to negotiation - but I’m afraid that I am not.

Yours sincerely,

Tim Mosedale


So come on folks ... am I being too harsh here? Any thoughts?

The worrying aspect is that 'I'm good in the gym' and 'I can learn skills really quickly' just doesn't cut the mustard with me. I find it worrying that some people are completely naive and feel that they can watch a programme, or read a book, and then 'give it a go.' Everest is too big and too serious to just come along and 'give it a go.' It demands a huge amount of respect and it is this approach that will be the undoing of people every year. And unfortunately that then tarnishes the reputation of Everest and undermines the achievement of the climbers and mountaineers out there who do approach it with the right background and mountaineering pedigree.

'It's been my lifelong ambition for the last 5 years.' Well unless you are only 5 years old then that isn't a lifelong ambition. And why haven't you done something about it in the last 5 years then (which, with a bit of hard work and plenty of time on the hill, would possiby be long enough to get yourself suitably well trained by the way).

I am all for people venturing in to the realms of ultra high altitude mountaineering - personally some of the most rewarding experiences that I have had have been on expeditions with like minded people. But start at the beginning and work your way up. I know that not everyone feels that they have the time, or money, to go on loads and loads of trips and work their way up through the ranks. But even so, don't just dive in with Everest. UK hills, UK rock and UK (Scottish) winter all provide fantastic opportunities to further your skill level and be subjected to some ever changing and demanding conditions (as well as some fantastic memorable days out). If you can get to The Alps and maybe an expedition or two as well then this will be a bonus.

But don't turn up to Everest to 'give it a go' and be surprised when it spanks your arse.

11 comments:

  1. Absolutely fair comments Tim. The letter is very fair and well worded. Wouldn't have expected anything else from a professional such as you and I'm not taking the piss :)
    Frogboy

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  2. 'It's been my lifelong ambition for the last 5 years.'...

    did he really say that!

    for what it's worth i fully agree with you; just not worth the risk for your team or for him; if he knew more he'd know he wasn't ready!

    Steve (Kili, Elbrus, Aconcagua and still not ready, but i will be)

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  3. I think you have already answered your own question. I lead trips myself (met you at AD basecamp with the Jagged Globe AD 50 year anniversary trip last year) and even if I got offered a free trip to Everest I would have to think long and hard as to whether I could do it without negatively impacting the other team member's chances. I agree with the above comment 100% I think the fact that you have given him the advice you have should (a) show him you know what you are talking about and (b) encourage him to come back to you when he is ready. The reality is he probably will go with a less scrupulous provider regardless and as long as nothing goes wrong he might even make it. But as you intimated, Everest is no place to learn how to use crampons and should not be uttered in the same sentence as bucket list. You did the right thing.

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  4. I've read 'Into Thin Air'. Surely I qualify? :-) See you there. Are we going on the East side or the West side?

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  5. So a 13 year old girl who had never stepped foot on a mountain made it all the way up and down without a problem. Just how hard can it be? Seems if you just do what you are told you will be fine. Heck, you may even pass an 80 year old woman along the way.

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  6. yea, i read the "absolute list of skills." it seems like a lot for someone like me wit experience. apparently from what i read , there are a lot of unknowns(weather, avalanches, errors of other climbers, hace, hape). this would be a problem for a control freak like me. in addition, i can see the benefit of experience ie with hypoxia second nature may not be enough (but still relativly important). I read somewhere on line that percent O2 saturation drops to 40 %. As a MD, I'd want a monitor (and would want mine at
    least 85% ?).

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    Replies
    1. should say with no experience and thinking of keeping it that way!

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    2. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  7. yea, i read the "absolute list of skills." it seems like a lot for someone like me wit experience. apparently from what i read , there are a lot of unknowns(weather, avalanches, errors of other climbers, hace, hape). this would be a problem for a control freak like me. in addition, i can see the benefit of experience ie with hypoxia second nature may not be enough (but still relativly important). I read somewhere on line that percent O2 saturation drops to 40 %. As a MD, I'd want a monitor (and would want mine at
    least 85% ?).

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  8. ok i read the study. oxygen saturation is ok to 7100 M, at 8100M the PaO@ drops 26%. apparently the study subjects had pao2 of 56% at 27500feet. form what i remember at 60% sat the pao2 is at 60 mmhg and is the drop off point in survival. I guess this is where you turn up the o2 and bear down ie start coughing/valsalva

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  9. Perfectly resonable response, I've recently finished uni and now fell free enough to venture on some mountaineering expeditions. I've been reading lots about mountaineering but simply don't know where a safe and challenging place to start. Obviously Im quite anxious and would love to jump straight in like this guy but doing it right and work your my way up seems like the more rewarding method. Anyway if you could maybe suggest some climbs that I can start from basically being a complete nube to ametuer, to mediocre and a final one in which will test all the acquired skills that would be much appreciated.
    Thanks kev

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