First rotation done and dusted

We've just had a great 4 night foray on the hill and everyone is in fine spirits.

The Khumbu Icefall is on pretty good condition this year. Other than the recce we had on the 22nd Apr this was the first time the team had been all the way through it and, thanks to the 3 week trekking and acclimatisation schedule, everyone made it through to Camp 1 in great time, even though they were carrying reasonable loads.

We arrived between 9 and 10, having departed at 5a.m. and chilled for the rest of the day. When I say 'chilled' I mean rested in our tents with the doors open trying to get any breeze there may be and with sleeping bags over the tops of the tents to try and create some shade. It's absolutely baking at C1 … until the sun goes down.

The next day saw most of us go for a mooch along the trail towards C2 to gain a little height and then back to C1 again. Thankfully the second day at C1 was a little cooler with a smidgen of a breeze so was a little more tolerable.

As we were setting off to C2 on the 3rd morning a tent next to ours went up in flames. I went over to assist as much as I could and doused the burning gas canister in snow. Thankfully no one was hurt but the three occupants (one of whom was still inside the tent (and still in her sleeping bag!)) were clearly very shaken by the episode. A very close call.

Anyway we then mozzied on to Camp 2 which is situated at around 6,400m and the journey was over and done with in around an hour and a half to two hours. It's a gradual incline with a few ladders to cross but in the great scheme of things it's an easy(ish) day - as long as you start early or you get frazzled as the temperature quickly goes from -20 to +30 when the sun comes up.

At Camp 2 we have a cook crew, a kitchen tent and a dining tent. So most of the rest of the day was spent playing cards and chilling.

Everyone had a great night and them we had an early start to go for a walk towards The Lhotse Face. Again everyone was in fine fettle and we quickly gained altitude and stopped for a rest at 6,700m. We could see the Climbing Sherpas fixing ropes on the face but didn't venture up as we'd only get in the way.

We were quickly back down to C2 where lunch followed by an all afternoon cardathon took us through to dinner time.

Another headache free night for everyone, an early breakfast and we hit the trail. The trick about coming down to EBC is not to start in The Khumbu Icefall to early or we'll be in the way of the Sherpas who are coming up from Base Camp, but equally not to be too late or it just gets too hot. So we descended to C1 by about 08.15 and then after we collected a few bits and bobs we'd left there we started down in to TKI and had the first third of it pretty much to ourselves.

Having said that I did see two clients being short roped up towards C1 by heavily loaded Climbing Sherpas. Surely, if you can't make it to C1 without being dragged there, you shouldn't be on the mountain? Perhaps this would account for the helicopter we've just seen fly in to The Western Cwm?

Later on we came across quite a big group making very, very slow progress upwards at around 9. They were clearly suffering as by now it was boiling hot and they should have started earlier. Not quite sure who'd made the decision to start late but it was clear that they had compromised themselves. Ideally you want to be arriving C1 between 9 and 10 and clearly this group weren't going to be there until well after 12 (and some even as late as 2 or 3 by the looks of it).

All in all the passage through TKI is good going bit there is one area in particular where it's definitely not a good idea to stop and take a picnic. Most of the ladders are well placed and stable - with a couple of exceptions.

One section of the climb consists of a ladder leaning against a wall at about 50 degrees to the left on top of which two further ladders have been tied that kink back towards the vertical. It feels most precarious and off balance but at least it's sturdy.

Another couple of ladder sections are more of the horizontal type crossings and over some quite deep crevasses. One in particular consists of two ladders tied together on a 20 to 30 degree incline but the ladders aren't quite sitting level so there's a 15 degree tilt to cope with as well. And to top it all ... it's a little bit springy and moves around a little. Most disconcerting going up on the way to C1 but even worse coming down it on the return to Base Camp.

So we dropped down this morning from C2 & we're now back at Base Camp for a rest. Not sure when the next rotation is going to be but it will be soon enough for sure.

The only thing to add is that, as you may have heard elsewhere, there has been a hoo haa on the hill (not involving our group or Sherpas) and there's a lot of rumours and accusations being banded around and some associated negative press. For our part we are very well informed about what happened as one of our group knows one of the guys involved very well. However, despite that we are issuing a 'no comment' press release - it's not for us to quote or comment or to get misrepresented. Sorry and all that but the politics are complicated enough without us issuing a comment and by inference appear to be taking sides. Suffice to say it is a sad situation that appears to have blown out of all proportion. A mountain out of a molehill appropriately springs to mind.

I'll keep you posted. Tim & Co

Arriving at Everest Base Camp

We've arrived at Gorak Shep in fine fettle. There's a lot of people on the trail and it suddenly feels quite busy (and impersonal).

The fact that we are all well, acclimatised and having a super great time completely justifies the leisurely 3 week trekking schedule.

The past few days have seen us sleeping higher than Everest Base Camp, we made a mass ascent of Pokalde (5,800m), crossed the Kongma La and descended to Lobuche.

We awoke to a snowy trail and cloudy skies but the trek here was super easy - especially compared to the hoards of trekkers who are having difficulty along the trail. They all seem to be having a great time, and I hope that they're enjoying the highlight of their trip, but I am sooo glad that my group are in much better shape both physically and mentally.

We're just having some lunch at Gorak Shep, the last 'village' on the trail, and then we'll be mooching the last hour and a half to EBC where we'll be settling in to 'home' for the next 3 to 5 weeks.

We're destined for a complete rest day tomorrow where we'll be unpacking all the freight and baggage that we've been separated from since departing KTM. I imagine the shower tent will receive some use as well as bowls of hot water for doing some laundry. On the 22nd we'll go and have a look see in the lower stretches of The Khumbu Icefall where I'll acquaint the group with how to negotiate the ropes and ladders. After that we are having a Base Camp puja (blessing) on the 23rd and then we're aiming to be sleeping at Camp 1 (and Camp 2) on the 24th onwards for 3 or 4 nights.

So this is the end of the (easy) fun trekking phase and the start of the transition to the more serious (but fun) expedition phase.

I'll keep you posted. Cheers - Tim & Co

Resting

Just a quick update … we arrived Dingboche (4,400m) yesterday and are now having a nice day resting, washing, showering and generally chilling. Watched Monty Python & The Holy Grail last night which is being requoted and re enacted today with much hilarity.

Tomorrow we're off to a beautiful camp site above Bibre and after that we'll be gaining height up to the Kongma La (around 5,300m) - the campsite with the best views in The Khumbu. We'll be there for two nights before dropping down and making our way to arrive EBC on the 20th.

Comms may be limited until EBC bit if I get a chance I'll fire another update across.

Out for now - Tim & Co

Everest ... here we come!

Intrinsically I am going back to Everest to lead a group of 6 trusty experienced mountaineers aiming for the summit.

5 of us are taking a leisurely 3 weeks to trek in to Everest Base Camp and I'll be taking them over 3 high passes along the way. We're crossing The Renjo La, The Cho La and, after a couple of days resting at Dingboche, we'll be crossing the Kongma La as well. We will be sleeping a few hundred meters below each pass - the idea being that we are spending time at higher and higher altitudes prior to arriving at EBC. We are also ascending a peak called Pokalde as part of our acclimatisation which is just short of 6,000m.

When we arrive at Base Camp we will be joined by our final member - a fellow expedition leader I have worked with a few times - and then we will start our acclimatisation rotations on Everest. This involves going through The Khumbu Icefall which has a bit of a reputation. It is a like being in a maze with ice walls (seracs) towering all around. Some areas are perfectly safe and other areas are places where you wouldn't want to stop and take a picnic. Other teams will go in, come out, go in and up to deliver gear to Camp 1 (around 6,000m) and back down again and then they'll go and sleep at Camp 1 and then onwards to Camp 2 (6,400m).

Because we will have spent 3 weeks acclimatising elsewhere it means that we can go straight through and sleep at Camp 1 on our first visit - so lessening the journeys, the nervous energy and the exposure to risk.

At least that is the plan!

Last time it worked really well and there's no reason why it won't work out that way again - the main thing beyond our (my) control here is the health of the group but all being well we will be sleeping at Camp 1 and then on to Camp 2 on our first rotation on the hill.

After a few days loitering at C2 we'll drop down to Base Camp for a few days to rest and recuperate. No matter how hard we try, and no matter how efficient we are with our time, when we are on the hill we won't eat enough, we won't drink enough and we won't sleep enough. There is only so long that you can go in to deficit before it starts to impair performance and judgement. Indeed if someone becomes seriously dehydrated it can lead to other complications making people much more susceptible to frostbite, hypothermia (too cold), hyperthermia (too hot - it can be in the 30s in The Western Cwm and if we are too slow and get caught in there in our down clothing it is difficult to regulate the core temperature and cool down), Acute Mountain Sickness and the two killers that everyone wants to avoid - High Altitude Cerebral Oedema (fluid on the brain which can affect brain function, decision making ability, eyesight, balance and coordination) and High Altitude Pulmonary Oedema (fluid on the lungs which affects the ability to breathe. It is difficult enough breathing up there anyway without having fluid sloshing around in your lungs making them less efficient).

So it's back down to Base Camp to rest, eat and drink. At altitude, perversely, people often lose their appetite (again isn't it difficult enough already) so I always provide loads of extra snacks, nibbles and delicacies to make Base Camp a more appealing environment. We've got boxes of Haribo, Licquorice Allsorts and other sweet and sticky goodies, loads of crackers with cheeses and pate, tubs of Pringles, bags and bags of cashews and pistachios, jars and jars of olives and gherkins and, my latest find which I'd never come across before, caperberries They are basically stalks with capers on pickled in a jar. It's all very well having chocolatey and sweet snacks but it's savoury that everyone tends to crave.

But it's not all chilling and resting. I'll also be conducting the final few sessions of instruction and preparation for the group. On the trek in we will already have discussed topics such as avoiding frostbite, how to prevent getting cold hands, dealing with fixed ropes in ascent and descent, the importance of concurrent activity and the like but at Everest Base Camp, where it is most tangible, I start covering the really serious stuff with oxygen protocols,medical protocols and stuff relevant to summit day.

We are one of the only teams who will spend time practicing how to draw up injections. We have some strong steroidal medicine which can saves lives and buy time for that person to descend. Speak to most people on the mountain and they'll know the drug - Dexamethazone. But ask them the dose they should give, what it can be taken with, what the dangers and pitfalls are and, most importantly, how and where to inject and they will probably look a little bit sheepish. It is a life saver but people don't know how to use it.

Trying to talk someone through how to give an injection on the end of a radio is nigh on impossible, so we have a go in the relative comfort of Base Camp just in case we have to do it for real in a life and death situation on the hill. We are, to the best of my knowledge, the only team where every member will be equipped with their own personal supply of high altitude medication and, importantly, know what it is for and how to use it.

With the oxygen masks everyone in the team will know how the masks adjust, how it links to the regulator, how the regulator attaches to the bottle and what duration they can expect depending on the flow rate. For many teams the first time they try with their mask is at Camp 3 (7,100m to 7,300m) and if they don't get it right, or can't operate the system properly, then it could well affect their summit bid or even their life. Or the lives of those around them.

I do have a bit of a bee in my bonnet about people turning up ill prepared or not knowing their gear and equipment intimately because, at the end of the day, it is The Climbing Sherpas who are going to go out and try to rescue these folk. I have been working with my Sherpas for a decade and they have families and responsibilities so how would they feel if I brought along a client who clearly shouldn't be there? How would I feel if one of them became injured in some way because one of my clients shouldn't have been there in the first place?

Don't get me started.

So the next foray on the hill is straight to Camp 2 and we will ascend to, and 'touch' Camp 3. There's no need to spend time there if we don't have to - so we spend a few hours there and then back to Camp 2.

After that we are back to Base Camp waiting for the weather and when the window appears we will be in for a 7 or 8 day journey to the summit and back.

But that's a different story!

We will be updating where possible via www.twitter.com/timmosedale
and / or
www.facebook.com/tim.mosedale
and / or
www.keswick-bed-and-breakfast.blogspot.co.uk/

Watch this space and I hope that you enjoy the show!

It's only a rich man that buys a cheap suit.

Now then … please please remember that not all Everest trips are equal. We have an expression over here that goes something along the lines of ‘If you are going to compare apples with apples, at least make sure that you start out with apples.’ So, whilst there are some exceedingly expensive trips available, there are also some that are way too cheap. And you have to ask yourself why they are cheap and what you aren’t getting. 

For instance, there are deals out there for around US$35,000 to US$38,000 - but what people don’t realise is that this price might not include Climbing Sherpas, oxygen, masks, regulators, food and accommodation on the trek in etc etc. Other aspects where teams cut corners are the Base Camp facilities, provisions on the hill, weather forecasting, a Western leader and the quality of their Climbing Sherpas. How on earth can people spend that amount of money having not researched what they are, and are not getting, and end up paying through the nose for various add ons that potentially increases the final bill by another US$10,000?

The expensive trips may well be recouping some of their overheads that they incur with office staff, glossy brochures, networked computers and company cars. But all this does not count for anything when you are on the hill because the brochure, networked computers, office staff etc are a complete irrelevance. What counts on the hill are the Base Camp facilities and quality of the food, the logistics, the Climbing Sherpas, the weather forecasting, the provision of oxygen and the leadership.

So, firstly, I use one of the best agencies in Kathmandu. They are a VERY good operator and have an extremely proficient team, particularly when it comes to rescue and evacuation. This is something that we always hope we will never have to call upon – a bit like having insurance. But, like insurance, when you do have to call upon it you want to know that you are with one of the best providers.

Kame (left) is one of the best Sirdars on the hill and Bhim is one of the best Base Camp cooks.

Similarly I use one of the best Sirdars on Everest. He is very well respected amongst the Climbing Sherpa community, he is held in very high regard amongst Western leaders and his team of Climbing Sherpas are some of the strongest on the mountain. Just because Climbing Sherpas have summited Everest numerous times doesn't necessarily make them good at their job. Yes they may well be immensely strong on the hill but the Climbing Sherpas we use are not only strong but they are also attentive to their job and have a greater understanding about client's expectations.

Ample oxygen supplies stocked at The South Col

We are also in the right camp with our supply of oxygen. We don’t just have a limited supply of oxygen and once you have used your quota it's gone - we have an ample supply with enough extra to cater for contingencies. With other teams when it’s gone it’s gone (or you have to buy more) whereas with our team there is a generous allocation to allow for unforeseen eventualities and emergencies. If, say, we got delayed at The South Col because the weather changed then this would not jeopardise our summit attempt. Equally if you were forced back on summit day because of a broken crampon, or helping out some other team, this too would not jeopardise your summit bid. With other teams once you have used your allocation (for whatever reason) then you either have no more gas or you have to spend more money. Again, we hope that there won’t be any emergencies happening … but if there are, then we are with the best. 

Camping on the Kongma La (5,350m) before ascending Pokalde. Excellent preparation
and acclimatisation for our arrival at Everest Base Camp.

I know that most of the cheaper trips (and indeed some of the really expensive one) don’t include things like meals in Kathmandu, or teahouse accommodation costs when trekking in, or extra snacks and goodies at Base Camp. To that end I am providing you with more for your money. I know that you might think that these don't amount to much in the great scheme of things but there is also my 3 week trekking itinerary to take in to account. This is a great part of the trip that allows for us to have a massive amount of flexibility and incorporate a few high camps before a few days resting at Dingboche (all paid for of course) and then another high camp (which is higher than Base Camp) as well as a 5,800m peak. This means that when we arrived at Base Camp last Spring everyone was fully acclimatised (not a headache in sight), very fit and healthy (we had avoided all the ill trekkers) and everyone was bonded as a group which not only made for a more pleasant experience but also a safer more dynamic team on the hill.

Once we arrived at Everest Base Camp we went in to the Khumbu Icefall for a half day foray on the ropes and ladders. The next time we went through was to sleep at C1 and then go on to C2! This is quite unusual as most teams make about 3 journeys before being ready to sleep at C1 – which meant that we spent less time and energy getting ready for the big event. The next time up high we went straight to C2 and had a few days there, incorporating a visit to C3, and then after a rest at BC (and some high altitude specific medical training and oxygen protocol preparation) we were ready for the summit push.

One other thing I’d mention is the level of support that we provide.

The view from C3 - our Climbing Sherpas will come and collect
you and take you to The South Col the next day.

We have excellent logistics on the mountain and there is a lot of help from the Climbing Sherpas. Because of the extra altitude involved on Everest I adopt a slightly different approach than when on Ama Dablam and have a lot more assistance from the Sherpas – this makes a big difference not only because of the extreme altitude but also because of the longevity of the trip. For instance we get sleeping bags carried to C1 when we go and camp there and then they are also carried for us to C2 when we move base to 6,400m. We then leave the bags at C2 when we drop down to BC, as we don't anticipate using C1 again the next time. Having said that, if people get to C1 the second time on the way to C2 and decide that they need to stay there again we'd then get sleeping bags sent back down from C2. On the summit phase, bags are carried when we go and sleep at C3 and the Climbing Sherpas then drop back down to C2 for the night. The next morning they then reappear to carry bags on up to The South Col. On top of that suits and boots are also carried directly to C2.

So as you can see you are 'merely' concerned with being self sufficient on a daily basis (layers of clothing, suncream, hydration, gloves, glasses, camera etc) rather than overdoing it physically and jeopardising yourself for the main event. But don't read this and feel that it detracts from the experience and effort required. Everest is a tremendous challenge and it would be totally false economy for people to feel that they should be paying less and carrying more - all that happens for most people is that it severely reduces their chances of success and dramatically increases their chance of becoming a liability to themselves and everyone around them. And therefore a liability to the rest of the team and perhaps jeopardise the summit bid for their fellow team members. Then there are the Climbing Sherpas to consider - they are the guys who will get involved in mounting any kind of rescue bid and we owe it to them, and their families, to go to the mountain with a responsible and pragmatic approach.

Summit day - above The Balcony.

On top of all this I provide a truly 1:1 experience. There are some teams who quote 1:1 - and whilst that means that they have a Climbing Sherpa for every member ... it doesn't necessarily mean that they are together on the mountain just that they are on the hill in different locations!

It's a BIG hill - so make sure you and your Climbing Sherpa
are in the same place at the same time for summit day.

With our team you have a Climbing Sherpa assisting to get to C3. You then have a Sherpa with you up to The South Col (we may have set off ahead of them but they'll soon catch up!). But on summit day your Climbing Sherpa is then glued to your side. He carries your spare oxygen and stays with you throughout the night and the day and constantly monitors your flow rate, your O2 reserves, your pace, the time and will keep reminding you to eat and drink. On top of that we also have spare oxygen on summit day as well as a spare mask and regulator. Your Climbing Sherpa will then stay with you all the way back down to The South Col and on down to C2 (if you stay at the South Col so will he). After a night at C2 your Climbing Sherpa will also stay with you back to Base Camp and only then will he be relieved of his guiding duties.

I believe that this is what 1:1 should mean.

In addition to this we all have radios to maintain contact on a daily basis, which allows for a great degree of flexibility as well as extra safety, and we all carry high altitude medical kits (and not only that you and the rest of the team will know what's in there, what it's for and how to use it) as well as having a great understanding about AMS, HACE, HAPE, frostbite, hypothermia, oxygen protocols etc. By the time I've finished with you all you'll be with a very, very well trained team!

Safety in  numbers. Not only one of the only teams to carry individual high altitude 1st aid kits on the hill ...
but also one of the only teams who knew what was in the kit, what it was for and how to use it.

One final thing to remember is that with some trips you don’t get a Western leader or even a point of focus. I truly believe that the Climbing Sherpas are awesome … but without direction and focus things can be overlooked or go slightly awry. Without a central focus the logistics can start to fall apart ever so slightly – and this can become a huge, HUGE problem higher on the hill when contingencies are not accounted for and suddenly there is no safety net. On the north side in 2005 a guy on a cheap trip arrived at his team’s top camp to find that there was no stove, no gas, no pans and no food. He came over and asked for all of this from us and if we hadn’t been there I don’t know what would have happened. He also didn’t have a lighter and even asked us for extra oxygen. Clearly not only had he not thought it through himself but his team (11 people from all sorts of different countries but without a leader) had also not thought about anything other than themselves as individuals.

It could be you!

One final thought ... It’s only a rich man that buys a cheap suit.

Everest photo.

Just been sent this photo from Dave Hill (he who I mentioned in my last Blog post about our meeting on the summit). He very kindly popped this across to me - it's on descent from the Summit of Everest with The Hillary Step just in the background.

Cheers Dave.

Onwards ...

Have eventually managed to get the Everest 2011 summit day photos optimized and uploaded. Took longer to do that than to go on the entire expedition.

Having a quieter year at the B&B this season (hardly surprising given the weather we are having)... but Ama Dablam has gone bonkers. Had 16 to look after in one form or another on Ama and 4 for Island Peak and have just taken on another small independent group of 6. So I now have 10 different itineraries to put in place for the various Ama clients and 2 itineraries for Island Peak folk. It's going to be a very busy season with a certain amount of cranial scratching to get my head around it all. But I will.

Just been perusing the interweb comparing dates that other teams may be on Ama (I always do this so I can anticipate if there are going to be any bottle necks or busy days with other groups being around) and unbelievably 2 companies are advertising that they have held their price yet again (some sort of credit crunch buster) - but what they have failed to mention is that whilst the price is the same the inclusions have been reduced!!!! So same price but less service.

Anyway - had a very good meeting today with the marketing manager of a well known UK brand and there's a glimmer of hope on the horizon for TheBigE2012 'Project X.' Watch this space.

In the meantime enjoy the photos from Everest 2011.

Western Cwm pictures

Just managed to get round to uploading some more pictures for your pleasure and entertainment. These are in and around The Western Cwm.

Other than that it's been a pretty busy week. Out Tues and Weds with a lad who's only been climbing a short while. We managed to rattle off Little Chamonix (VDiff), 2 routes on Brown Slabs (around MS), CDM (VS) and Fisher's Folly (VS) and then the following day Troutdale Pinnacle Direct (VS), Brown Crag Wall (MVS), Brown Slabs Crack (VS) and Creeping Jesus (HVS). All in all a fine effort.

Got a couple of runs in this week and a daddy day as well (aaah). Also a few more Ama Dablam enquiries so that's starting to get pretty full now.

The B&B is now chocker for the next few weeks and I have a couple of meetings lined up with folk for Everest so pretty excited about that. Also putting the finishing touches to my winter lecture dates - I'll let you know as soon as anything is in the diary.

Pictures

Have managed to get round to adding some more photos from the recent Everest expedition. Hope that you enjoy them.

Another 2 bookings taken for Ama Dablam! It's going to be another busy year as there are some people trekking in before us to meet at Base Camp when we arrive and get straight on to the hill. Then there is the main group that I'll be looking after for the full duration - and some more folk arriving right at the end as the main group are vacating the hill.

Then there are the folk doing Island Peak as well. It's getting complicated.

Off for a run shortly over Blencathra. Been a pissy day but it's nice now so looking forward to that.