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Wednesday, 25 May 2011

... summit push continued

So ... Giles was at C2 and the rest of us holed up at The South Col. We could have perhaps made it down further but we were very tentative about the fact that we would have then been on The Lhotse Face in the heat of the afternoon having probably not really had enough to drink through the previous 4 or 5 days. Not a great combination. So we dived (crawled) back in to the tent and brewed up and rested. Effectively this made it our 3rd night at, or above, the South Col. Quite a long time to be loitering at around 8,000m but with a little bit of oxygen every so often and with pretty much constant brewing up we maintained and looked after ourselves and kept in good order. Well worth the investment in time and effort.

May 21st - up and away and down the ropes towards C2 (and Giles was off down to Base Camp). A longish day but reasonably straight forward given that it was pretty much downhill all the way. Nice to be back down to a more oxygen rich environment compared to the altitudes we'd just been subjected to for the last week or so.

It was a great shame to find ourselves sliding down the ropes past a dead Japanese climber. We'd seen him on the summit push - just sitting in the snow with his hand held out - but he'd already died on the 12th and the weather had been such that recovery of the body had been impossible until the 20th. The long and short of it is that we'd heard it was his 3rd attempt on Everest and, for whatever reason, he'd had an argument with his Climbing Sherpa. He'd told his Climbing Sherpa to piss off, which he duly did, leaving the Japanese chap to his fate. Anyway it was a poignant reminder about the environment we were in and a suitable focus to make sure that we were going to make it down to C2 safely.

May 22nd - Spent the night at C2 and then up (at 5) and away early (6) to make sure we were down through the Khumbu Icefall before it started hotting up too much. It was amazing to see the differnce between how it had been a fortnight ago and what it was now like. There had been many subtle (and some not so subtle) changes and movements and it was definitely better to be there early morning whilst everything was still cold and frozen.

Talking of cold ... when we got to Base Camp we were given the BEST bottle of coke EVER.

R.I.P Chris Walker. A brief tribute from the summit.

Summit push round up

So ... where to start? It's been a while since we managed to give a proper update and so much has happened that it is difficult to remember exactly the order of events.

Anyway it went something like this ...

10th May - left Base Camp for Camp 2. An exciting day as we were effectively heading for our summit push.

The view from the top of The Khumbu Icefall looking towards Nuptse

11th May - rest day at Camp 2. Situated at 6,400m it only has 2 further camps above it whereas on the North side of the mountain the equivalent camp at 6,400m is ABC and has 4 (or perhaps 3) camps above depending on the size of your group and the logistics involved. Camp 2 on the South side is a much more pleasant place to be and catches a lot of sun. Yes it is chilly at night and, being at 6,400m, is a tiring place to be, but the North ABC by comparison doesn't get the sun until about 11 in the morning and is pretty much baltic all the time.

12th May - summit push is on and we are heading to C3 with a view to continuing to the South Col the following day and setting out for the summit on the night of the 13th / summiting on the morning of the 14th. Having arrived at C3 and sorted all the tents, arranged everyone's mattresses, started brewing up, put the food and Os in the right places the radio cracked in to life. Giles was having an appalling day and was very downbeat and Jen was also having difficulty having pulled most of her intercostal muscles from coughing fits she'd been having. For Giles this partly seemed to be on the back of a bout of illness he'd had at Base Camp prior to the 10th which had laid him low for a few days. But even so he seemed to be struggling more than he should have been - especially when compared to the relative ease he'd been experiencing earlier in the trip. I dropped back down to assist Jen with her rucksack and then back down again to assist Giles by just being there with him as he ascended. It turned out to be quite a long hard day.

Sunset view from Camp 3

13th May - weather window has changed and high winds are forecast. The South Col is not the place to be in poor weather so we head back down to C2. Giles was quite subdued and we had a chat. We came up with 3 options. 1 - he drop to Base Camp for a rest. 2 - he drop to Dingboche for a rest. 3 - he try sleeping on a low flow of oxygen at Camp 2. We realised that options 1 and 2 would probably develop in to options 1a or 2a which would be returning to Kathmandu.

14th May - not quite sure what the weather is doing and are reluctant to head back to Base Camp just in case we find ourselves down the mountain when we should be heading up. It's a good place to rest BUT it's quite a lot of effort to descend and, in particular, a big effort to reascend. So we decide to stay put. Thankfully Giles had had his best night's sleep for a long time and was a changed man.

15th May - another rest (!) day at C2.

Full moon rising over Lhotse from Camp 2

16th May - Looks like it's going to be good for the night of the 18th / morning of the the 19th so we're off to get ourselves in the right place at the right time. How exciting.

17th May - Traipse back up to C3 (7,100m) en route to ...

18th May - The South Col. Exploring new territory as we make our way to 7,950m and move in to our temporary camp at The South Col. Interestingly I met this chap ... who had his crampons on the wrong feet. I'd mentioned it to him as tactfully as possible about 3 hours previously and his excuse was that he'd been in a rush to go to the loo (oh, that's ok then). He did nothing about it despite often stopping for rests. The fact that he was letting his Sherpa do absolutely everything for him at every rebelay (from unclipping karabiners and jumars to feeding and managing him) says a lot and he was so totally out of his depth that it was worrying. Needless to say I decided to put a lot of distance between us.

A day of legendary terrain as we make our way further up The Lhotse Face, across to The Yellow Band, over to The Geneva Spur and arrive at The South Col.

Continuing up The Lhotse Face above Camp 3

The Yellow Band with Everest in the background

Approaching the South Col (in very windy conditions)

Oxygen stashed at The South Col

Unfortunately the weather has changed again and so, instead of just being there for a few hours in preparation for our summit bid we have to stay for the night.

19th May (morning and afternoon) - Amazingly it is possible to be reasonably comfortable at nearly 8,000m. We rest and rehydrate through the day having listened to the maelstrom through the night. Just as well we hadn't set off in to the squall or we'd have returned without the summit under our belts and possibly missing digits to frostbite.

19th May (night time) - it's our time to go and we busy ourselves getting ready. It took almost 2 hours just to pack sleeping bags, don our down suits, boots, harnesses and busy ourselves with last minute preparations.

Ready for the off

Then it's out in to the bitter cold night, pop crampons and oxygen on and set off in to the dark. Unfortunately the number of people who'd been set to go the night before (like ourselves) along with those scheduled for the 19th makes for a busy night. We moved desperately slowly with little chance of overtaking those that are slower than us. The terrain is such that to unclip from the rope and over take is an invitation for disaster - and the way from The South Col to The Balcony is no place to be courting danger.

20th May - Gradually we get ever higher on the hill. I had to stop at The Balcony and take my boots off! We'd been going desperately slowly and I'd realised that my feet were getting colder and colder. I could just about feel movement but knew that if I didn't do something soon I would either be going down or wouldn't be able to play 'This little piggy' or be able to wear sandals without scaring people.

I'd been pondering for a while what the problem was (apart from the ambient temperature) and realised that the crux was that either my feet had gone up a couple of sizes (possible but not probable) or I'd put Ali's liner socks on instead of mine (probable) which meant that my feet were getting squeezed a tad which was restricting my circulation. Therein lies a problem Mr and Mrs Smartwool - your socks aren't marked with the size on which means that it is very easy for pairs to get mixed up in outdoors families drawers and cupboards.

So ... outer boot off, inner boot off, instant freezing of socks due to -30 degree temperatures, outer sock off, inner sock off, outer sock back on, inner boot on and outer boot on. Do up various straps and laces and attempt to rewarm hands. And repeat with the other foot. After this I quickly changed to my second oxygen bottle so that I probably wouldn't have to stop again on the way to the summit.

This didn't take too long but I noticed the difference straight away. The Balcony is a popular stopping point for teams to quickly rest, change oxygen bottle, take on some energy and reassemble. Luckily once I'd managed to take the all too small socks off I was able to pop in front of a few teams and found myself with Jen and Susan (plus their Sherpas).

Jen all frozen up on the way to The Balcony

Gradually we made our way higher as the sun started to rise and were able to start to enjoy the ever changing views. Some amazing sights.

Looking back down to The Balcony (and the queues we'd managed to get ahead of)

But even so - there was a bit of a queue ahead as well.

Managed to gradually get past a few more people where the terrain allowed and then suddenly we're on the ridge and making our way towards the South Summit. I saw Giles making his way down (he'd summited at 05.15!!) and I could see The Hillary Step and the summit in the distance. I met Partha on his way down as well and then the next thing (about 2 hours later!!) I was on the summit as well.


It was a bit breezey and quite cold but I busied myself with doing some video footage and enjoying the environment.

After a while Jen and her Sherpa (Dorje Gyalgen) joined me followed by Susan and Padawa. I left some ashes on the summit of a great friend who had tragically died in Scotland the year before and by now I'd been on the top for an hour and a half and it was time to go. We made our way back to The South Summit, rested for a while, and then on back to The Balcony where I collected my socks and an empty water bottle I'd left there. I also changed back to my first (half full) bottle of oxygen and sent some texts (most of which it subsequently turns out didn't get through). Not quite the first text from the summit slopes of Mount Everest but not far off it.

I popped down the ropes rather tentatively as I was adamant that I didn't want to relax and have a lapse of concentration. Only when I was a few hundred metres from the South Col did I dare do a piece to camera reflecting on the success of the day.

20th May - (night time). Giles had been so far ahead of the rest of us that he had made the decision to go to C2 (a massive day).

to be continued ....

Video from the summit

Sunday, 22 May 2011

Summit day photos

Just a quick update as we have been away for nigh on 10 days or so (I've lost count). Basically we went up for a weather window which closed so we dropped back down to C2 but then another window opened so we didn't have time to drop down to BC so we sayed at 2 to then go to 3 and on to the South Col. That window promptly closed so we spent a night and a day at the South Col waiting (and hoping) and then set off in to the night.

It was a desperately cold night and, because of the foul weather the night before, there were a lot of people setting off for the summit. Even though we set off at 8.30p.m. we were still in a big long queue of very slow climbers. Anyway we trudged and waited and climbed and eventually, after an inordinate amount of time, we reached the top of the world. Giles arrived first, then Partha, then myself followed by Jen and Susan.

All now at Everest Base Camp and chilling. Trerkking out tomorrow and hope to be in KTM Weds morning.

I'll expand on the story another day. In the meantime ... some photos (which are sort of out of order I'm afraid and the connection is too slow for me to move them around).

Moonrise over Lhotse

Full moon over Lhotse from C2

Approaching the Yellow Band

Giles on The Geneva Spur

The top of the Geneva Spur

Relaxing at The South Col

Ultra relaxing at The South Col

The view from our tent looking towards the route for the summit bid.

Looking back down towards the Balcony

Kanchenjunga (far) and Makalu (near) around sunrise

Jen - all frozen up

Setting off in to the night

Looking down towards the Balcony


The Khumbu

Looking back towards Lhotse

Jen on the summit

Tim on the summit

Strange ice formation

Sunset from Camp 3
Setting off from C2 for the summit bid

Twitter News!

All now safe back at BC having summited on the 20th. Hurrah! Well done us! We're on 00977 98131 65232 if you want to txt. KTM here we come!

[not in tweet but helpful advice] Please remember to start your txt with the name of the person(s) you are sending it to (where appropriate)

Friday, 20 May 2011

Summit Tweet

The world's highest update from the summit of Everest! An amazing view. Off down to C2 soon once we've taken the obligatory photos. Tim

Tuesday, 17 May 2011


By Abi at Base Camp

Well, a few days later at Camp 2 and the waiting game is ongoing. The weather is being rather fickle at the moment and this is making robust forecasting for summit windows rather difficult. Its not that the weather is dreadful, but at this altitude, you only get one chance at summiting mainly because ascending from the South Col to summit is so demanding. So, climbers do not want to waste their reserves on a summit window that is not a definite bet, so to speak. There is a lot at its important to save physical and emotional reserves for a clear window that provides enough time to allow for a serious summit bid.

Everyone in the team is raring to go and awaiting starters orders eagerly...........

Unfortunately I am having to depart before the team has had a chance to summit. It has been a privilege to be able to help contribute to the team's progress over the weeks of acclimatization and initial ascents up to Camp 3 on Everest. The team have been wonderful to travel with and get to know over our time here in Nepal. Tim, as ever, has been a superb leader of the highest caliber, and great friend to all team members. He has approached this expedition with the utmost professionalism, providing everyone with the tailored support they have required as the expedition has evolved.

So, my part in the story ends here, but the adventure is not yet over..........

Saturday, 14 May 2011


(By Abi at base camp)

Well, there have been ups and downs (quite literally) over the last few days with Tim's team on the mountain. The team ascended to camp 2 in excellent time and then rested for the following day.....building up the strength for the Lhotste Face and ascent to camp 3 the next day. So, next day was a pre-dawn Alpine start from camp 2 to avoid the searing midday heat and energy sapping effect of the sun while exposed on the Lhotse Face ascending to camp 3. The whole team reached the camp in good order, but understandably exhausted from the effort involved. Rest and rehydration was the order of the day, while weather forecasting information reaching base camp was indicating that wind speeds higher up the mountain appeared to be looking unfavorable for the following few days. Stay put or descend? That was the question........

After much deliberation, the decision to descend to camp 2 next morning was taken. To stay poised on the mountain, but rest at a more tolerable altitude until a window of opportunity arises. The team have had an excellent night sleep and awake with the hope that today's forecasting might indicate an easing of conditions sometime soon. Apart from some minor aches and pains from the efforts of ascending/descending Lhotse Face, everyone is in good health and clearly in the mood for a serious summit bid. We're all watching and waiting.........

Wednesday, 11 May 2011

Tickety tockety

Well sometime in the not too distant future we'll be heading up the hill on our next foray. It may well be our summit attempt but I'm afraid I won't be able to divulge dates to you just yet.

Abi (our illustrious trip doctor) will be able to update Twitter and FBook and in turn J'thong (our illustrious UK comms man) will be able to keep the Blog updated.

We have one piece of unfortunate news - Chris had to leave the expedition early and is now back in the UK. I won't go in to the medical details but suffice to say he is fine - he just had an episode that we felt warranted further investigation in Kathmandu and returning to altitude was not an option. He was a very strong climber and a valued member of the team and it has been very sad that he has had to depart. We'd have all put money on him summiting.

It's just as well that we have had a few rest days as the longevity of the trip, and the time spent at altitude, has had it's impact with virtually everyone being ill or run down in one way or another. Thanks to Abi, and her extensive medical knowledge, we have managed to get everyone back to pretty much full strength, albeit that some of the team are now rattling with the number of pills they are taking.

So ... as I said it may well go quiet from these here parts for a few days so please be patient and don't fret.

Exciting times!

Wish us luck....

Tim & Co

Sunday, 8 May 2011

From Twitter

Kenton & Seb have just returned to Base Camp after summiting Everest yesterday. Both looking very well considering. Congrats well deserved.

Friday, 6 May 2011

The Lhotse Face

Well we are back at Base Camp and so it's time for an update.

We set off back up the hill 4 days ago and went straight to Camp 2. Our previous journey had been broken by a couple of nights at C1 but we decided to miss that out this time and go straight to C2. What a big day. We set off in the early(ish) hours to avoid being in the heat of the day too much. But even just getting to C1 is a reasonable outing. So we stopped for a while there and had a brew and then set off again for C2.

Thankfully later in the afternoon it clouded over somewhat and made the trip in to the Western Cwm a bit more tolerable. But even so it's the best part of 5 to 8 hours of walking at altitudes in excess of 6,000m and so is inevitably quite tiring.

After a rest day we then made our way over to The Lhotse Face to gain some more altitude and touch Camp 3. It's quite a way and it's a lot of effort to go and sleep there so generally people touch C3 (7,100m to 7,300m depending on where your tents are pitched) and then drop down again to C2, and then on down to EBC.

The Lhotse Face ... another of those names steeped in the history of Everest and the pioneers of old. It's amazing. From C2 we could clearly see the line of little dots making their way up the slopes to C3 and then on to the beginning of the diagonal traverse over to The Geneva Spur which leads onto The South Col. It took around 2 hours to even get to the bottom of the Face from C2 and then suddenly the angle changed quite dramatically and it was time for the jumar (a device with teeth which grips the rope) to be called in to action. By now it was quite warm and we were all in the intense light and heat of the day but there's not a lot you can do about it. So ... move the jumar, step up, jumar, step, jumar, pant, pant, cough, pant, breathe, don't look down, jumar, step, jumar, step .... and so it went on for the best part of 2 hours. Relentless but absolutely exhilarating.

And that's about it - we've done our rotations at altitude and are now ready for the green light. Obviously there are all the logistics to make sure are in place, and that everyone is still fit and healthy, the Climbing Sherpas are rested, there's enough tents and oxygen in the right places on the hill, and the winds are low, the temperature is acceptable etc etc. But intrinsically the next time we go to C3 will be to sleep there, and then make our way on towards the South Col and so on to the summit. How exciting.

To pee or not to pee? - that is the question.

Clearly Tim has gone off his rocker I hear you say. But this is just one of the aspects of high altitude mountaineering that I thought I'd share with you.

What generally happens on the hill is that we are all tucked up in our down sleeping bags by around 8 because it is just too cold to sit around in the mess tent. So after a few minutes wrestling out of clothes and in to sleeping bags it's time for a quick read and then slumber. And when sleep comes it can be really really deep. I generally have a fantastic deep sleep and then wake up bursting for a wee. But it's cold out there and I'm all toasty in my bag. And, hey, I can hang on for a while until it's time to be getting up. Or can I? I generally doze on and off for ages trying to get back to sleep but the feeling of discomfort is soooo overwhelming that returning to sleep is nigh on impossible. Best check the time to make sure I can make it until breakfast, and it's then that I discover it's around 11.30p.m. Aaarrrggghhh.

So clearly I'm not going to make it until getting up time, in which case it's pee time. Now I used to always get up and go outside and admire the view of the stars whilst having a tinkle. But that was on lower peaks where the temperature is generally a few degrees warmer. But since being introduced to the pee bottle I have been converted. I won't go in to the gory details but basically you pee in to a bottle and do the top up. Depending on the time of night depends on whether you are advised to empty it straight away. If you empty it straight away then this tends to send a shower of frost crystals over your unfortunate tent partner as you open the tent zipper and discharge the contents outside. But if you decide not to empty it then the risk is that it freezes, thereby rendering it unusable again that night - which could be a BIG problem if you decided you desperately needed to go again. And when you sometimes have to go three, four or even five times a night this could suddenly become a BIG problem.

Anyway, enough of that, I've had a pee in a bottle and emptied it. Back to sleep? Er, no. What happens next can only be described at H.A.T.A.T. (High Altitude Tossing And Turning). You try for all your worth to sleep but it just doesn't happen. Every time you turn over you get showered with ice crystals. Your tent partner does the pee bottle thing and showers ice over you. You get bouts of sleep apnoea and feel that you are suffocating. You breath freezes on to the inside of your sleeping bag and forms an icy crust around your head and shoulders. And so it goes on. All the way through the night. Until about 5 in the morning when you eventually doze off only to be woken up at soon after 5 when the tent starts getting very light as the sun come sup. So another hour or so of tossing and turning until it's time to get up.

And that just about sums up the average night on the hill.

Thankfully we are now down at Base Camp for a well earned rest. When we first arrived here and this was our highest altitude then all of the above was part and parcel of being at altitude. But now that we have been sleeping far higher, in actual fact Base Camp produces really deep long sleeps.

I'd write some more but I'm off to bed.

Night night.

Sunday, 1 May 2011

Injections and oxygen (some rest day)

Well we are in the midst of a thoroughly good rest session. We've been practicing injections today just in case we have an issue on summit day and need to start administering some high altitude drugs. Also chatted through the drugs that we will be carrying on summit day as well as discussing our plans and contingencies for getting from Camp 3 to The South Col and The South Col to the summit and back.

This afternoon we then had a look at the masks and oxygen system so that everyone in the team is now thoroughly coherent with everything that we may / will encounter between now and the top.

We're having another rest day tomorrow when we'll be having a gentle jaunt to Pumori Base Camp (or C1) for a leg stretch and hopefully views across to The South and North Col.

We've been having a bit of snow here and there but this morning awoke to the best views yet - crystal clear blue skies and an awesome mountain vista.

We're sharing our Base Camp and mess tent with Kenton Cool (and his friend Seb Rougegre - Seb's first time on the hill) who has very kindly been sharing plenty of info with us - particularly with regards to summit day - which has been extremely useful for the team to be able to visualise what is coming up sometime in the next few weeks.

Hopefully we'll be able to drop another update before we head for C2 on Tuesday.

Until then ...